M1009 Damage Assesment

[axshon]

Hah! I have no idea at all! This is my first diesel and the last time I had a REAL solid axle 4x4 was 12 years ago. I'll tag it in whatever way is the cheapest I can possibly do it.

So "the plan". Right now it is to make it as reliable as I possibly can, get as many spare parts as I can afford, learn how to repair it myself and keep it on the road forever. I'm going to fix the body, undercoat it, put bed liner on the floorboards inside and add whatever gauges I need to keep an eye on things. Tach comes to mind. I also want to replace the rear seat with a Suburban version so my kids have head rests in the back. I drove by a rear-end collision on 29 a while back where a Jeep Cherokee had kids in the back (no headrests). Both kids were killed - broken necks. My wife is in the medical profession so she heard and made it a no-compromise rule. Crazy and unbelievable but true.

 

[Warthog]

Axshon,

Since you are new you may not be aware that the owner of this website does NOT want any Bugout, SHTF, zombie or doomsday threads.

Too many other websites for that.

Keep you threads about MVs and you'll be fine.
Also watch your "colorful" language. That is another thing that will get you into trouble here.

While we are not prudes here, this is a family friendly site. Using the F-bomb WILL get you in trouble, even when it's abbreviated.

 

[Crewdawg141]

This too is my first Diesel, after looking at things the Historic tags are the cheapest way to go. I just do not like the restrictions of Historic Tags. I am looking into if it is possible to retag it to normal tags after slapping Historic on it initially. Historic means no Inspection as opposed to normal tags.

I know that we are up the creek without a paddle if something bad happens in the area (I work in DC), so I have the M1009 for a toy (according to my other half I already have enough toys before this one).

 

[axshon]

Roger Warthog, Sorry about that.

Not one to drop the f-bomb anyway but the other stuff is officially shut down. Appreciate the heads up.

 

[Warthog]

Roger Warthog, Sorry about that.

Not one to drop the f-bomb anyway but the other stuff is officially shut down. Appreciate the heads up.

Not a problem. Just trying to keep the newbs out of trouble.

Looking forward to your truck recovery and MV build

 

[epartsman]

Trailer it don't drive it as the condition of the axles, brakes, and trans are unknown. Also you will need to do the Dog head mod, 12V glow plug mod, and bring it current on PM. Good luck and welcome.

 

[swinters]

Would love to see a photo not quite as close as this one but it looks a lot like the fender might be pushed back and didn't allow enough space when the door was opened. Hopefully there's no frame damage or anything. Do you know how to usw a plumb bob and a chalk line to diamond the frame and check frame alignment?

 

[WILDBOY6X6]

$$

HI to bad u r so far,body work is easy for me and id needed can get parts cheep here too.

steve

 

[axshon]

So these are screen shots from the online video. Doesn't look like any front end damage other than this area but the last picture seems to indicate a little extra space above the body ridge. I'm not terribly worried about it anymore. It is what it is.

I do (or did 25 years ago) know how to check the frame for square. I doubt I will though. I'll send it to my body guy and see what he says. He can laser check it in 10 minutes. Body is the one thing I won't do on this.

 

[axshon]

Trailer it don't drive it as the condition of the axles, brakes, and trans are unknown. Also you will need to do the Dog head mod, 12V glow plug mod, and bring it current on PM. Good luck and welcome.

So I found the dog head mod but didn't find anything directly on the 12 glow plug mod. By that I mean it's discussed everywhere but I don't see anything describing why to do it? It looks from my reading so far that the glow plugs are already on 12V, it's just the starter circuit that gets 24V. What did I miss?

Also looked through the sticky posts and CUCV FAQ but didn't see a direct description of the what and why for this. Total noob question I know.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

So these are screen shots from the online video. Doesn't look like any front end damage other than this area but the last picture seems to indicate a little extra space above the body ridge..

Looks to me like the front fender was pushed back until it impinged on the door. Somebody forced the door open resulting in the damage you see.

 

[Whitfield]

I'm about 20 days ahead of you. Just got my m1008 street legal and inspected 7 days ago Monday ~ and Sold my Acura TL 3 days ago Friday.

The 12v Glow plug mod just eliminates the 24v feed to the resistor pack behind the air filter on the fire wall. You then feed the glow plug sylinoid from the 12v source (Battery). Just remember to include a fuseable link in your new circuit. I performed this mod + new 1986 Ford 6.9 Glow plug sylinoid ($20 as opposed to $90), + New Glow plug controler card from CUCV electric.

Also picked up the deal on Used / Second / Blem batteries. GOt my first Group 31 (6-month old NAPA) for $40 and my second (a 3-month old Dekka) for $65. Your Innerstate battery distributor will have these deals as will your local starter / alternator / battery rebuilder.

License Tag mount = Agri Supply / Northern tool
Trailer tag holder and tag light. ~ Less then $10.



(Luckily I found mine close to home) PO bought a lot of (4) and kept the cherry for himself. 3-yrs later, after doing nothing with it he decided to sell.

 

[rickf]

The front bumper has been pushed back into the right front fender. It is still there, that in turn has pushed the fender back. Not a big deal, chain the bumper to a tree and slowly back up, bumper fixed. Loosen all of the fender mounting bolts along the top of the fender and under the front and rear of the fender and then pry forward against the already bent door. You might even be able to see the original mark on the holes where the fender was, go a hair past that. You are going to have to remove the door to rework that edge, take your time.

Rick

When you pry against the fender use a wide spoon type pry tool or some wood wedges to prevent more damage to fender.

 

[axshon]

Whitfield: Thanks for the simple description. I get it now. Looking forward to diving into the TMs on this to get everything squared.
Rick: Thanks for the advice. I'll try it once I get it home but the metal work will go to my body guy. I've learned through the years what I can and can't do. Tear down a motor - no problem, straighten a fender - no way.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

"A good man knows his limitations." Harry Calahan


I don't do bodywork, either. Just not in my skillset, I guess.


I agree with Rick's assessment, BTW. His explanation was more complete than mine.