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M1009 Door Adjustment

Recovry4x4

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Its actually a steel plate with serrations on it for when you tighten it. You can reach around the cab and then up in the space to hold it in place. Have soldier b standing by to either hold the plate or unscrew the washer and install the sleeve. FWIW there is a popular web based site that sells boxes of 25 bushings for about $6.
 

ARYankee

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What about actually adjusting the door itself? My passenger door rubs a little on the front quarter panel when opened and closed.
 

Psywarrior

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What about actually adjusting the door itself? My passenger door rubs a little on the front quarter panel when opened and closed.
Check door alignment against the top and strike side first. If the alignment is good there, then your issue is the fender and not the door. However, if it is the door, then you have to loosen the hinges from either the door or the frame and adjust to properly position. This is a royal pain in the butt as a minor adjustment can have a major effect on the door when closed.
 

Hasdrubal

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I also had my door rubbing against the lower front fender. When you grab your door at the back and lift, does it have play? If so..your door hinge pin bushings need replacing. Seemed like a royal pain in the #*% to change. So I used a floor jack with a piece of wood and lifted the back of the door up. Then I took the lower bolts out and put a few washers in, tightened it back up and voila! Instant back yard door sag fix, have a perfect gap now and door no longer rubs. I wouldn't do this on a BMW, but its a good quick fix for a MV.
 

wallew

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OH GREAT, I've got to do eight of them

M1009 - 2
M1028A2 - 2
91 Suburban - 4 (ouch)

and I'll probably just purchase full replacement pin assemblies... better to replace them all now and not worry about it later...

that way, I have spares, JUST IN CASE ...

thanx so much for this one, cause it will make a HUGE difference in my Sub...
 

Whitfield

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Location
Richmond Virginia
Just purchased upper and lower pin assemblies for my M1008. Upper went smooth as butter. Lower has been an hour+ headache. Finally had to resort to the dremmel tool cutting the pin in two for removal. Bushings installed smooth but trying to drive the new pin's serrated shoulder down into the door side hing has resulted in cracking my new lower bushing. Driving the pin in with a ballpein hammer just like the top. Pin now will not go any further and I'm beginning to show early signs of hinge distortion. Needs a press. Gonna try for a c-clamp.

I've done 1/2 dozen of these Chevy hinges (bushings and pins) and never had one fight me this hard.
 
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Whitfield

Member
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Location
Richmond Virginia
Big C-clamp and switching back to the stock lower pin worked well. Ended up needing (2) of the thinnest body shims behind the two lower most bolts. Probably as a result of the excess hammer work.
 
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2deuce

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portland, oregon
were any of you able to order directly from Auveco Products? I see it's #14924 in their catalog. In leu of Auveco where is the best place to order a box? I would like to get a box of 25 striker bushings . Thanks
 

cucvrus

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Was it an armor plated door? I sit on the stool and take them on and off all the time. I am not as strong as I used to be. I used to change door hinge bushings on 1977 Monte Carlos by myself. That was then this is now. But I can still do the CUCV doors alone. Just not the M1009 loaded tailgate.
 

cucvrus

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3 foot of 1/2" rubber fuel line and you can make about 50 of them. Then you will have box full and it will last you 2 lifetimes. Rubber hose works for me. it also saves the latch assembly and keeps the door from rattling and driving you crazy on rough roads.
 

kkcshipp

Member
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Location
Elizabethtown, KY
3 foot of 1/2" rubber fuel line and you can make about 50 of them. Then you will have box full and it will last you 2 lifetimes. Rubber hose works for me. it also saves the latch assembly and keeps the door from rattling and driving you crazy on rough roads.
I got some heater hose, but had to slice one side to slide over the striker then tape it.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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I got some heater hose, but had to slice one side to slide over the striker then tape it.
I should have told you to remove the striker from the B pillar and then remove the washers. Tap the hose down onto the striker pin with a similar sized deep socket and reinstall and adjust as needed. That way you don't have to cut it. That will wear out quickly with the tape on it. I am trying to help you not criticize your work.
 

kkcshipp

Member
130
-1
16
Location
Elizabethtown, KY
I should have told you to remove the striker from the B pillar and then remove the washers. Tap the hose down onto the striker pin with a similar sized deep socket and reinstall and adjust as needed. That way you don't have to cut it. That will wear out quickly with the tape on it. I am trying to help you not criticize your work.
Roger that, criticize away as I knew it would not work either. Just got to get that striker off this weekend. BTW, for everyone here...It works very well. :)
 
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