M1009 Flooring

[dc_cucv]

My long term goal will be to spray the entire interior of my 1009 with Lizardskin sound deadener, then follow that with a coat of the ceramic thermal barrier.
Since it's already too cold for me to spray those liners, I'd like a short term solution in terms of flooring. Winter is coming and wet feet on bare metal will not be ok with me (already have a few rusts spots in the sill plate area).

Does anyone have any experience with this from LMC in their 1009?
Should/does it fit the contours of the floor exactly? For over 200 bucks for the front only, I'd rather hear from someone who's used one before before going for it.
38-2869

1/8" Thick Molded Industrial Polyvinyl (MIP) Floor Mats

Shop from thousands of parts and accessories to help you restore, maintain, and customize your Chevrolet, GMC, Dodge or Ford truck or SUV. Keep 'em on the road with the right part, right price, right now.

www.lmctruck.com

Are there any other options in terms of floor mats that would fit as well? Would stock 84 K5 Blazer mats fit the footwell in a M1009?

Thanks!!

 

[dc_cucv]

If you have this installed, post a pic!
thanks again!!

 

[nyoffroad]

I used a couple of one piece rubber like mats from LMC, not sure if it's the same as what you are talking about. I used them in pick ups and they fit very well, a little funky at the front of the tranny hump. I did have to cut a hole for a transmission shifter, I don't remember about the T-case, both that I used went from side to side and held down by the plastic pieces that don't come on CUCV's but can also be ordered or gotten at any junk yard.

 

[cucvrus]

It has been my experience that anything you put on / over the steel floor of an older vehicle that is exposed to weather and driven in in climate weather has a corrosive effect to the floor. The fine abrasive particles that are trapped between the rubber mat and the floor are grinding away every time you move your feet. The floor remains wet 24/7 and the rust never sleeps. I have opted to paint and apply several heavy coats of paint. And I have opted to have the floors LineXed on a few units. Line Xed is once and done. I also opted the spray in brush in type DIY liners and failed within a year or 2. Ask me how hard that is to correct. Massive fail and rusted worse than any other method. Good Luck. These are not quiet vehicles and I live with that. I even remove the firewall insulation so my inside stays dry and free of moisture.
I would wash it out with a hose and drove it year-round.

 

[dc_cucv]

Well I definitely plan on getting the back LineX'd, however I may also end up coating LineX over the Lizardskin ceramic stuff that's supposed to work pretty well. I missed the window for getting the sprays on before the temps dropped here, so basically i just want a temporary solution til the spring time when i can get the stuff sprayed and cured properly. I feel comfortable spraying the Lizardskin with my own compressor and gun, but i will have the LineX done professionally.

So I guess having the undercarriage gone thru, cleaned up and sprayed professionally is probably a good idea too. If I lived out west in NV, AZ, CA, NM ,etc I would worry about it, but here in the mid Atlanti you have to or you'll rust out.

 

[cucvrus]

Cleaning the undercarriage and painting everything is a definite plus. That was easy.

 

[cucvrus]

Lifting the body off made everything easy.