• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M1009 Fuel lift pump to fuel filter hard line replacement

placek59

New member
12
12
3
Location
SE Nebraska
Hello All,
New to the diesel and CUCV world here but have been reading a lot and learning a lot too! I purchased the Blazer about a month ago. I knew it was hard to start and had a fuel leak among other things that a 40 year old snow plow truck would have, but I thought it was a good deal so I nabbed it! I drove it home about 8 miles from where I purchased it with out any issues, other than the fuel leak was pretty bad by the time I got home.

I thought it was a return line and the previous "owner" didn't know much about it (bought from a small private school and the maintenance man I dealt with was relatively new to the school and they got a newer plow truck so got rid of the blazer). Finally got around to working on it over the weekend and cleaned up the mouse nests under the intake (on windage tray??) and found the leak to be coming from the hard line that goes from lift pump/fuel pump up to the filter on the firewall.

Is this a common issue?

Can anyone point me in the correct direction to order a new hardline? I cannot find anything available and may not be using the correct terms for search functions. A part number if still available would be helpful.

Would the 6.5 and 6.2 share the same tube?
Thanks for any help,
P59
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,117
1,715
113
Location
York Pa
Dang!! Having that steel line rust out is not a usual problem. Pretty sure it's a 3/8 line you can buy and bend up to fit. If not the civi is about thr same if you can find one of those. Not sure about 6.5 being the same. I've had the rubber hose chewed up for that line a few times.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
I would hose it. Use SAE J30R10 hose with FKM tube and cover and it will outlast everything.

 

placek59

New member
12
12
3
Location
SE Nebraska
I don't think it rusted out, although it could have, I thought it may have been rubbing/vibrating against the head or valve cover for quite a few years and eventually worn through.

I had thought about using hose and that way I could be lazy and not have to remove the intake.
Would cutting the hard line a few inches from the leak and using a hose clamp with the fuel hose cause any problems? Approx how much pressure is in that fuel line? Is there a better or proper way to do that shortcut?

Is the hard line that goes into the lift pump a flared line? A type of tapered pipe thread? Any advice is appreciated



Edit: after cleaning up the mouse nest better and doing some more investigating, a pinhole had rusted through and was spitting a tiny stream of fuel
 
Last edited:

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,433
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
It is a flared line. Are you in a big hurry for this line? I maybe have one. Maybe. I do if I can find it. I have had them rattle to pieces before from not being secure in the clamps to the block up front.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
These hoses see 5-10 psi. It will hold with a clamp on the tube but if you want a barb you can flare the tube and use one of these.


I do not recommend worm drive clamps for small diameters. Use a pinch clamp. They're inexpensive and so is the install tool.

 

placek59

New member
12
12
3
Location
SE Nebraska
I don't think I'll be in a big hurry if I can get by with the crimp and flexible hose for awhile. I think it would be something I will want to fix in the future though. I want to get the fuel leak fixed so I can give it a better shakedown, put some miles on it, and see how far down the rabbit hole this project may take us and our wallet.
 

placek59

New member
12
12
3
Location
SE Nebraska
Thanks for your help, I got it replaced with some Gates 30r9 fuel hose for now and the proper sized crimp clamp. Couldn't find any 30r10 locally and the local diesel truck shop said they don't stock any fuel hose and just use whatever CarQuest has in stock. Hope that can last me for awhile. Now I seem to have a glow plug relay issue as the light on the dash doesn't come on and I can't get it to fire up. I'll do some reading and start a new thread if needed.
 
Last edited:

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
J30R9 is good. It has a Viton tube with chlorinated polyethylene cover. The R10 hose has a Viton cover. CPE is often used for electrical wire insulation and has good durability under hood.
 

vanaisa

Well-known member
263
354
63
Location
Tallinn, Estonia
Thanks for your help, I got it replaced with some Gates 30r9 fuel hose for now and the proper sized crimp clamp. Couldn't find any 30r10 locally and the local diesel truck shop said they don't stock any fuel hose and just use whatever CarQuest has in stock. Hope that can last me for awhile. Now I seem to have a glow plug relay issue as the light on the dash doesn't come on and I can't get it to fire up. I'll do some reading and start a new thread if needed.
here, post nr 14 helps you with glow plug diagnosis:
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks