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M1009 lacks power

roddog

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Oh almost forgot, I found a diesel cleaner better than sea foam, I been using sea foam for many years, in my small engines, thru boat motors and so on. But this one pics butt. It's called hot shots secrete diesel extreme. Again I don't know how to upload pics, but **** did it make a difference.
 

Matt5

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mmhmm you love saying you want to separate them... the idea of them being in the rad is they get to engine temp... remove them from the rad how are you controlling cooling to prevent over cooling or not enough cooling?
I would really like to know...
Pretty much never ever ever see a cooler failure...

Btw you "should" be adding stuff to every tank... I run optilube... was tested the best for adding back lubricity and summer is super cheap to treat with.
 

Tinstar

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Oh almost forgot, I found a diesel cleaner better than sea foam, I been using sea foam for many years, in my small engines, thru boat motors and so on. But this one pics butt. It's called hot shots secrete diesel extreme. Again I don't know how to upload pics, but **** did it make a difference.
I used that in my Duramax and didn’t notice any improvement.
Tried their oil additive also.

Seafoam works the best for me.

Whatever you use, always good to keep the fuel system clean.
 

90Jimmy

Member
236
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Southern Illinois
Oh almost forgot, I found a diesel cleaner better than sea foam, I been using sea foam for many years, in my small engines, thru boat motors and so on. But this one pics butt. It's called hot shots secrete diesel extreme. Again I don't know how to upload pics, but **** did it make a difference.
Forum Tips & Tricks this will show you the way to post pictures. Enjoy
 

nyoffroad

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I've never understood the "need" to add aditives for lubricity, I've run over 2 million miles and never had an IP problem. Gelling? yes a couple time and I normally add anti gel when the truck is going to be parked for a couple days in the winter or when it drops below 0*. A few months ago I had a problem with alge in the tank and it clogged the filtersand I barely limped into a shop, they cleaned the tanks and filtered the fuel and replaced the trucks filters and added some anti-alge stuff and no problem since.
Save some money and don't worry about lubricity.
 

rsh4364

Active member
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greensprings ,ohio
mmhmm you love saying you want to separate them... the idea of them being in the rad is they get to engine temp... remove them from the rad how are you controlling cooling to prevent over cooling or not enough cooling?
I would really like to know...
Pretty much never ever ever see a cooler failure...

Btw you "should" be adding stuff to every tank... I run optilube... was tested the best for adding back lubricity and summer is super cheap to treat with.
When separating oil coolers from radiator you can use a remote oil thermostat, when I separate my oil cooler from radiator I'm going to use a derale products #25792 thermostat in conjunction with a b&m 70274 super cooler. And I do agree with adding a lubricant to modern low sulfer diesel .I use howes every fill up.
 
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Matt5

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I've never understood the "need" to add aditives for lubricity,
Save some money and don't worry about lubricity.
Okay let me help you, old diesels were made to run on... diesel... not this ULSD stuff... it had a certain lubricity that everything expected... why do you worry about using 15w40 diesel oil... I mean oil is slippery right? Should not matter?
So now with ULSD, we have a lubricty spec... not only can you find tests of pump fuel that is *above* this spec (bad) you can look around and see EVEN if pump fuel meets spec... it is still *HIGHER* than what current common rail diesels recommend...

So, current ULSD does not even met the spec for *New* diesel systems... you find no reason to add some to older diesels? Also most are also a cetane boost... let's look at the rating the US has... Oh right, compared to the rest of the world it is *junk*.

Adding some cheap (the opti lube I spoke is of a min dosage (summer) is 2500+ gallons / $ 55ish) additive that should add extra lubricity, clean, as well as separate water.... and "boost power / mpg" cause... cetane... (even if it's so little... it might offset the additive cost...)

Why not.

I doubt you have 2 million miles on 1 truck...

If you want to google around enough you will see many places blame common rail injector issues on... fuel quality. Again, US spec does not even meet bosh spec for common rails... so... if you want to be in manufacture spec (for current diesels idk spec on cuvcs) you need to add stuff...
 
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roddog

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I used a tru- cool cooler, for rad and oil, comes with low temp by pass, and threaded fittings for a clean install. Also lifetime warranty, unlike the radiator.
 

roddog

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Oops for tranny and separate one for oil cooling I mean. The rad is aluminum with 2 mitsimoto lifetime warranty 16 in 2800 cfm each and a adjustable control.
 

Sharecropper

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Oops for tranny and separate one for oil cooling I mean. The rad is aluminum with 2 mitsimoto lifetime warranty 16 in 2800 cfm each and a adjustable control.
Yes I would like to see photos and have more information as well. I have always thought that by removing the fan/fan clutch, and replacing it with remote fans restores horsepower.
 

90Jimmy

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You seem like a very capable dude, I’m sure you’ll figure out the picture posting procedures at some point. I for one can’t wait to see your photographic progress of this build.
 

Matt5

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It is a super poor system... maybe was good back in 1998? in 2019 it's like... lol... wow fail...
 

Matt5

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NY
Use 24v fans for half the amperage draw. Flex a lite #s 11624 or 39624.
What would be the point... just adds another layer of complexity IMO... okay you can use a slightly smaller wire gauge so? Or am I missing something here on that small load.
 

nyoffroad

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Location
Rochester NY
Okay let me help you, old diesels were made to run on... diesel... not this ULSD stuff... it had a certain lubricity that everything expected... why do you worry about using 15w40 diesel oil... I mean oil is slippery right? Should not matter?





Why not.

I doubt you have 2 million miles on 1 truck...
.
No not one truck, I run 145,000 miles a year and have been doing that for 11 or 12 years, before that I was over the road and miles varied. I keep a truck for about 400,000 miles and never that's NEVER had an IP or injector problem. This has been discussed over and over again in the trucking world and I hope you don't mind but I'll go with what they recommend and my experience. Whoops! I did replace a 6.2L IP once but that was because it leaked at the throttle shaft.
 

Matt5

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mmhmm, so you run a truck for 3 years and replace... and then talk about "I had no problems"... it is a 3 year old truck.

Go look up what bosch sets as a HFFR spec for common rail diesels...
Go look up what the US has speced for diesel
Go look up some random pump fuel HFFR (you will find both below and above us spec)

Bottom line comes down to, it is a fact that pump fuel in the US does not even meet bosh's common rail spec... and you want to run a old diesel that was set for non ulsd on ulsd? lol okay.

You can find a post around here IIRC where someone said they have like 600 IP's fail in 6 months or a year after the fuel switch over (not on cucvs but IP's in general)...

Just because something did not fail btw and need replacement does not mean it did not wear...

Do as you choose but to say "oh this was discussed in the trucking world" lol so what? like that makes it right?

Again, last time, you are running fuel that does not meet spec for bosch common rail systems (last spec I knew like 2 years ago)... and you say it is fine? I'll believe the manufacture over the "trucking world"
 
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