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M1009 Little Red Riding Hood.

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
shrink·age
[ˈSHriNGkij]

NOUN
  1. the process, fact, or amount of shrinking:
This is the word of the week. It has cost me some time and effort, but it will not stop me. The door jambs were thoroughly sanded and cleaned and all the seams in the door jambs and on the doors were caulked and allowed to dry. They were primed sanded again and sealed. I then top coated all the jambs. That was over a year ago. When I put the M1009 back in the work bay on Monday and opened the doors I could see small cracks in the topcoat and gray lines in the sealer. I could have ignored them and brushed a thin coat of green on them. But NO, I had to grind out the sealer and scuff sand the entire door jamb areas. Do it right or don't do it at all. Last night was a busy night hand sanding and spending money.
I dropped off the 5 wheels at the tire shop and went to pick up body shop supplies. A gallon of Rage filler is $125. and the light finish filler is $50 a tube. I bought Genuine 3M seam sealer this time. I knew better and used a sealant caulk because I was short on supplies last year. Now I do it all over again. I am smiling and making it right. No pictures today. After spending $1800. yesterday on my project I think I will just take a day off after work and go out and dine. Friday is another day. Take Care and Be Safe. And as I always say. "Do it right the first time" and no half fast work is acceptable.
 

Sezzo

Well-known member
141
296
63
Location
Bamberg (Germany)
shrink·age
[ˈSHriNGkij]

NOUN
  1. the process, fact, or amount of shrinking:
This is the word of the week. It has cost me some time and effort, but it will not stop me. The door jambs were thoroughly sanded and cleaned and all the seams in the door jambs and on the doors were caulked and allowed to dry. They were primed sanded again and sealed. I then top coated all the jambs. That was over a year ago. When I put the M1009 back in the work bay on Monday and opened the doors I could see small cracks in the topcoat and gray lines in the sealer. I could have ignored them and brushed a thin coat of green on them. But NO, I had to grind out the sealer and scuff sand the entire door jamb areas. Do it right or don't do it at all. Last night was a busy night hand sanding and spending money.
I dropped off the 5 wheels at the tire shop and went to pick up body shop supplies. A gallon of Rage filler is $125. and the light finish filler is $50 a tube. I bought Genuine 3M seam sealer this time. I knew better and used a sealant caulk because I was short on supplies last year. Now I do it all over again. I am smiling and making it right. No pictures today. After spending $1800. yesterday on my project I think I will just take a day off after work and go out and dine. Friday is another day. Take Care and Be Safe. And as I always say. "Do it right the first time" and no half fast work is acceptable.
I agree. This is what makes the difference between a good job and a great job. You do a great job and never forget to have fun with it. It’s a hobby and hobbies should make you happy. Setbacks are here to learn and to think about what we do and how we could do better next time. No setbacks no progress. Easy. Take care. Be safe.
 

cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
This is how things used to work out. Even when I took time off, I was able to make progress. I wanted to show the slight paint cracks. DSCF9090.JPG I am not sure you can see them, but they are there, and I have hand scuffed the entire jamb and inside of the doors. Practice makes perfect or at least extra effort. I picked up the new tires and placed them in the storage area till they are needed. DSCF9091.JPG DSCF9092.JPG That was an expensive night out. But these tires look great on my Trail Boss and I am sure they will look great on the M1009. Take Care and Be Safe. I have a work weekend planned but not on the CUCV. I have my rock crusher project I need to dedicate time to also. I have a lot of time and money in that project, and it does me no good setting apart waiting for paint. Progress is a time-consuming job.
 

cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I know you have been wondering if I made any progress in the past 3 days. I have NOT. I have been away and fell ill on Monday from who knows what. I had great intentions and after the torrential rain fall and an eye Dr' appointment with my pupils enlarged I felt best to rest and regroup. I am feeling better and plan on getting back into the project for a few hours tonight after my full-time gig. Take Care and Be Safe. I have some new ideas I will share on my build as they happen. I am not putting a lift kit on it or doing a 12-volt conversion. The plans I have are more leaning towards retaining everything stock. Including and up to removing the quad shocks I have installed. Didn't pull the trigger yet but the gears are turning. I see so few of these CUCV's in stock configuration I have by mind about 1/2 made up to do it. That don't mean I am boring holes thru the 1/4 panels either. I mean of the line stock configuration.
 

Sezzo

Well-known member
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Location
Bamberg (Germany)
Health always comes first. Don't worry, this is not a race. No one rushes you. I like the quad shocks to be honest. This is a heavy engine. But you are right. This is not a stock build on a M1009. I think they used the quad shocks on civilian K5 Blazers. Do as you like it the most. This is your build and I am very sure that it will be amazing when it is finished. Take care.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I did get back into my project last night for a few hours. If you recall back in the beginning, I was going to get the entire interior Line Xed. That has since been taken off the table. The Line X shop cannot even start on it until mid to end July. They are not able to give a definite estimate and that is a problem. As much as I hate sanding brushed on CARC paint in a cargo bed area and floor I would rather spend the time and sand the entire area smooth. I will get that done and then seal it and topcoat in with a few coats of CARC. That will be on the budget and also will show that the floor is in A 1 condition and requires no liner sprayed on to hide anything. I do like Line X but not at any expense. Waiting a month and a half can also put me behind farther. As winter will come again. I need to stay on course. The M1009 has a 40th birthday coming up in August 2023. I want to be able to celebrate. Take Care. and Be Safe.
1686823899154.png
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,465
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113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
It may seem to some that I am working in reverse but being that I started this project over 20 years ago I am moving along in the right direction. Last night after much thought I removed the front doors again. I decided that if I was going to be painting the entire inside of the cab it would be best to be able to have complete access to the entire inside of the cab and paint all the way out to the exterior of the body. That means all the jams will be getting scuffed and another coat of paint. Easy enough. I was hand sanding the steel area of the lower dash and getting everything inside clean and smooth. I am in need of a spare tire jack storage and use decal for the right rear cargo wall if anyone knows where one can be had. The one i have is shabby and not very legible anymore after being drilled through for antenna brackets. I seen a lot of carnage done to the CUCV side body panels from the antenna brackets. The brackets had a blunt end on them and hit a lot of stuff when you were in the field. I will post pictures later but for now I am slowly making forward progress. I just had to back up a bit to make the job easier. Take Care and Be Safe.
 

cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Not much to post. The dents in the main cab roof have been repaired and are ready for primer. That was an easy task after a friend came over and worked his body repair skills on the dents. The way he fixed it was by slapping it and tapping at special places. The old body repair skills are a thing of the past. They have very few real body repair people anymore. Most guys are just panel replacers. I am still hand sanding the rear cargo area. I found I can better hand sand then using a 5" DA. Besides I can listen to my XM 313 Rock Bar while sanding and not a compressor running. I have 2 Milwaukee M18 cordless sanders that work well also. But the problem with a DA is it only takes the paint off the high spots, and you still need to hand sand the crevasses and in the corners. These flat paint vehicles have years of mud, crud and dust in the tight bends of the metal. Everything is going well. I am just not happy with the jack decal. I always say that prep work is 99.9% of the finished product. I am sanding this floor and cargo area better than most of the home paint jobs I see on the other body panels. No pictures not much to see but lots of dust and dirt. When I get cleaned up, I will pose the M1009 for pictures. Have a Great Day and Be Safe.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Just a few sneak peeks of my progress. It has been a long-drawn-out job and I am not completed yet. Someone brush painted CARC in the cargo area and was very sloppy about it. They sprinkled non-skid grit in it and that made a real mess. I have been digging, sanding, wire brushing my way thru that poor job they done. I started a few years ago and I am still at it. Really. I will paint no floor until I think it is ready for paint. LineX would have been easier. But who wants easy? With a floor this nice I want to paint it and flaunt it. DSCF9093.JPG DSCF9094.JPG DSCF9095.JPG DSCF9096.JPG DSCF9097.JPG I am not very proud of the jacking instructions decal. I am still searching for one. DSCF9098.JPG I am proud of the condition of the floor and cargo area. DSCF9099.JPG
Thank you for looking and Be Safe. I am determined to get this project as perfect as possible.
 

dougco1

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Just a few sneak peeks of my progress. It has been a long-drawn-out job and I am not completed yet. Someone brush painted CARC in the cargo area and was very sloppy about it. They sprinkled non-skid grit in it and that made a real mess. I have been digging, sanding, wire brushing my way thru that poor job they done. I started a few years ago and I am still at it. Really. I will paint no floor until I think it is ready for paint. LineX would have been easier. But who wants easy? With a floor this nice I want to paint it and flaunt it. View attachment 900148 View attachment 900149 View attachment 900150 View attachment 900151 View attachment 900152 I am not very proud of the jacking instructions decal. I am still searching for one. View attachment 900153 I am proud of the condition of the floor and cargo area. View attachment 900154
Thank you for looking and Be Safe. I am determined to get this project as perfect as possible.
A little squirt of WD-40 and some elbow grease will clean up that jacking decal like new.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
A little squirt of WD-40 and some elbow grease will clean up that jacking decal like new.
Just what I need. Oils and silicone all over a sanded surface that I am ready to paint. I can just ignore it and cover it or scrape it off and paint it. I never needed a picture to show me how the jack, tools and tire needed to be stored. But I do want it as original as possible. I am looking at other options. i wish i could find a clean decal to get a picture. Thank you, Doug but I think the WD40 is not a valid option.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Last night it was more interior cab hand sanding, and I was able to get the primer on the main cab roof after getting the dents repaired. I am moving right along. I have a lot of property management work to handle now that the rains have begun again. I am currently doing everything alone and getting it done. Prioritizing things is the key and getting something done every day makes things happen. Not as fast as I like but still getting it done. Take Care. I will have sanding classes next week if you would care to sign up. Be Safe.
 

dougco1

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Just what I need. Oils and silicone all over a sanded surface that I am ready to paint. I can just ignore it and cover it or scrape it off and paint it. I never needed a picture to show me how the jack, tools and tire needed to be stored. But I do want it as original as possible. I am looking at other options. i wish i could find a clean decal to get a picture. Thank you, Doug but I think the WD40 is not a valid option.
Rick
Re-glue those corners first. Add wide painter's tape around the decal. Spray WD-40 "directly on a scrubby pad or rag" then add in some elbow grease and your problem will be solved.
Just saying .
Or is it because you don't own any WD-40
 

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cucvrus

Well-known member
11,465
10,396
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Some have probably been wondering what I am getting completed. I have been doing lots of multi-tasking and getting things done. I have also hand sanded a lot of brushed CARC paint from the inside of the M1009 tub. To my sadness the CARC was brushed on parts of the fiberglass roof inside. I spent several hours getting the silicone sealer from the upper outer and inner window openings. DSCF9106.JPG I suspect the windows leaked a bit like most M1009's do. The silicone sealer had great adhesion and was a challenge to remove. After trying several easy ways that were a danger to the fiberglass surface, I went with a plastic razor blade and that failed. The small 3M rolock discs were too abrasive and ate into the fiberglass quickly. DSCF9107.JPG DSCF9108.JPG My final solution was a blunt straight screwdriver that had a square unsharp end on it. After a few attempts I was mastering the caulk removal. DSCF9109.JPG I found the perfect tool in my arsenal of tools. DSCF9110.JPG After I had both of the side windows clean and sanded smooth in the jams I moved to the front roof seal. DSCF9111.JPG DSCF9112.JPG That was a bit more challenging. I have been by myself all day and with the top setting up right it was not as easy. I made do with the situation and removed that seal and cleaned it as well as I could in this position. DSCF9113.JPG I have a lot of work to do here, and this is something that needs to be completed and gets me away from the mindless sanding of CARC paint. I more than likely sanding more then I must but when the new paint is on, and I see a spot that should have been sanded better it is way past that time to fix it right. It rained heavily last night and washed the sanded top off well. I will stay on task and get this sanding of the top and interior completed by weeks end. It is my goal. The side window jams are sanded and complete and now I must move to the rear window seal and top area. That seems to be CARC less. DSCF9114.JPG DSCF9115.JPG Oh Joy. Take Care and Be Safe. See you in church.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,465
10,396
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
The mindless CARC sanding, and paint prep work continues on the inside of my M1009. This has been monumental task that others would have skipped and sprayed it. Not me. I went over the edge this time. Pictures forth coming along with a winded explanation of my actions. More work = Better end results. I am striving for perfection. Have a Great Day. Just wait you will see what I done. It will all pay off in the end.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
So, as you all know I have been sanding the floor of my M1009 for over 6 months. I get very tired of it and move on to other projects. Understood? When the military had the M1009 they added some sort of brush it anti-skid to the floor and some time someone brushed in green CARC paint on the side walls and all the way up under the dash and kick panels. They did a very POOR job. It may be what saved the floor and I could have just sprayed Line X over it or added a rubber mat. I was leaning towards LineX and then decided to just get it smooth by sanding it apply a sealer and topcoat it with Sherwin Williams CARC green. I was nearing completion of my sanding efforts and sanded the dash face. I was blowing out the dust and it just kept coming out of everywhere. The edge under the dash looked like it was washed in mud. I suspect 40 years of setting around in dusty environments tends to do that. I peered up under the dash and everything looked like crap with dirt and dust everywhere. That was about all I needed to see. I could only imagine my excellent paint on the floor and looking up under the dash at all the rusty, muddy, dusty, dirty parts. I already had the heater box out, so I thought why not. I have stripped CUCV's down to bare bones in the past and reassembled them. No problem. I was hoping to just paint and move on. I did NOT like the end results and now was the time to correct it. I wanted to have a CUCV that looked great everywhere I looked and what I see selling and the prices these days I was determined to build a masterpiece. 4 hours and I stripped out everything except the ashtray. DSCF9116.JPGI I will take that out when I recover from sweat blindness. I mowed grass and split wood today also. The camera lense is even fogging up as it was in the house in the A/C. The back is completely sanded. DSCF9117.JPG I removed the brake pedal and the e brake pedal assembly. Why would I have gone thru all this and looked up under the dash to see this horror. DSCF9120.JPG I will clean and paint everything as it is being installed. The wiring harness will look like new after a good cleaning and all the connections cleaned and greased. The steering column can be rebuilt, and everything cleaned and serviced. DSCF9119.JPG I left the wiring harness attached to the steering column so if I need to I can plug in the bulkhead connector and start the vehicle. I will say it sure made taping up the interior a lot easier. I don't have to tape up anything. I can even remove the 4WD shifter that I cleaned, sanded and painted. That was easy. I could not even get tape to stick onto the dash edge to cover it. the dust and flat paint made that a mess. DSCF9118.JPG Thanks for looking. I have lots of work to do. I should have done this from the get/go. Be Safe. See you in Church.
 
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