The std. Stanadyne filter assy does have a water seperater in it. The indicator light lets you know there is water in filter. That's what the black plastic protruding part on bottom of the base of the filter is for. Water settles to the bottom of the retangular filter and the star knob with hose attached to it is where you let the water out. Just open up the valve by turning it counter clockwise. (just loosen it-don't completely unscrew as it is very easy to get cross-threaded when screwing it back finger tight ). When use loosen it, the water would come out first then, diesel would start coming out. I crossed threaded one of mine & I had a leak of fuel from the bottom. Since this is plastic , it's easy to mess it up and also try to get too tight and strip it out. In my case I used the star plug off of the old one i was replacing.
From all comments on this I read, there's a lot of opinions (here's one more).
1) You should be using 12V glow plugs--that's what it is designed for (running 24V on them will certainly burn them out fairly quickly based on how long they stay on.) The large two resistors on fire wall reduces voltage down to your glow plugs to 12V or less. The humvees use 24V plugs which have the round type attaching ends . Even if you have converted your vehicle over to the pushbutton type glowplug activating system, use should still use 12V only. The 24V should be for your starter ONLY.
2)As stated earlier when you use your pushbutton, your solonoid on outside of firewall should "click" so to indicate it's working. HOWEVER, based on some earlier statements, I would check with a ''voltmeter" when you do this to make sure that what is going to your glowplugs is only 12V and NOT 24V. If you find this is working as said and all of youre glowplugs are good-next...
3) Make sure you do not have air in your lines by checking by using the screw on top of the filter assembly. I have seen it many times before here (why I'm not exactly sure) to remove the PINK power wire on top of the injector pump when you do this. I have never done that and so far have not had a problem.
If engine won't start and I want to check air in line, FIRST I do not engage the glow plugs but just turn the engine over 3-5 times (3 sec.) then go out a use big flat hd screwdriver and loosen the top valve and if it "spits & sputters" you have air. Let it do that till pressure is gone and go back in truck and redo same untill you get a solid stream of diesel and no air.
Once you have this, use your glow plug button and it should crank right up. Don't try patting the "gas" pedal as this don't help a bit. Matter of fact you can crank this engine up and it will run (even though a little rough) without the whole alum. intake laying in the back seat.
Purging air this way helps alot if you have a 2nd person under the hood and you in driver's seat.
The guy with idea of the bottle on windshield is a great idea & I will do that next time.
I sure I will get some negitive comments on this, but I expect it from 1 or 2 anyway. All I'm trying to get across,,, just because something "clicks", "squirts" or says 12 volts. ALWAYS check it with a voltmeter/mulitmeter. Also set it on 200V as if you get a reading over 20V you might get wrong info. Pardon me if I seem to over explain that as you very well probably know 100X more than me on electrical stuff. Smokey
