M1009 not starting..

[LeadHead]

Just dropped $212 on new batteries, and she still wont start. It'll crank and crank, but just wont fire. It's about 40 degrees. It wont start easy when it's cold out, but I can normally get it started fine after a few cranks. Any ideas?

 

[chevy79k5]

glow plugs.....

 

[epartsman]

fuel, air bubbles in fuel, fuel starting to gel (32 is freezing) without the use of additives, glowplugs not working, etc.

 

[CROM]

Fuel filter change and a fuel system bleed wouldn't hurt if you haven't in a while. I'm going with glow plugs for most likely. On the fuel side, could be a bunch of stuff....lift pump, clogged line, bad IP....

I'd start with the glow plug troubleshooting.

 

[mistaken1]

Download the CUCV TMs and use the troubleshooting sections in them.
Download CUCV TMs Here - Where to Download CUCV TMs

 

[top_prop]

have you run, or are you running any fuel other than highway diesel? How old is it?

 

[LeadHead]

Thanks yall. I will check the GPs tomorrow.

have you run, or are you running any fuel other than highway diesel? How old is it?

When I bought it, it was running on red diesel (heating oil), but it should have gone through all that by now. It's been ran on pump hwy diesel for weeks.

 

[Psywarrior]

have you run, or are you running any fuel other than highway diesel? How old is it?

Bear in mind that since 85/86 when these were being built, highway diesel has drastically changed. Back then, you had LSD (Low sulphur diesel 500PPM sulphur), now it is ULSD (15 PPM). This change in sulphur content, in addition to lowering lubricity of the fuel, also affects the combustion system and the fuel system. For a non ULSD engine, I would strongly recommend adding a fuel supplement with each fillup to keep your lubricity up and keep from clogging injectors.

 

[LeadHead]

Since there is smoke coming out the exhaust while cranking, can I set off the fuel delivery problem for now and check GPs first?

Is there a thread on how to check the GPs? I read the TM and it told me what to check, but I have no idea really what it is or how to do it. If anyone would mind, I'd really appreciate it if someone knows of a thread/post or wanna make a little How-To post. Thanks a lot!

 

[sandcobra164]

Checking glow plugs has been covered in great detail in the CUCV section. Seems every time the weather turns cold, it's the most talked about thing. To check glow plugs, get a multimeter, remove the wire going to the glow plug, put one lead to a known good ground (alternator case is my preferred point) and the other lead to the spade terminal of the glow plug. You should have around 1.2 to 1.5 ohms of resistance on a good one. If not, you've got a bad and possibly swollen one. Another check worth trying is with all of the wires connected, check the voltage on one of the glow plugs with the key switched on (you under the hood hooked up already and a friend turns the key to RUN but not START). Anything below 12 is a good sign, over 14 is bad. Next thread you'll want to visit is Swollen Glow Plug Removal. JJandA Racing makes a neat tool for that as well as OTC 6005A. Some people loosen the plug up and just crank the truck and rev the motor till it spits out the hole but I've had no success with that method. Smoking while cranking does indicate fuel and bad glow plugs. I just replaced all 8, only 2 were working and I had the same symptoms as you.

 

[epartsman]

This may also help:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/62477-gp-module-theory-operation.html

 

[top_prop]

Bear in mind that since 85/86 when these were being built, highway diesel has drastically changed. Back then, you had LSD (Low sulphur diesel 500PPM sulphur), now it is ULSD (15 PPM). This change in sulphur content, in addition to lowering lubricity of the fuel, also affects the combustion system and the fuel system. For a non ULSD engine, I would strongly recommend adding a fuel supplement with each fillup to keep your lubricity up and keep from clogging injectors.

.... and if he added something 'non standard' it may cause gelling and clogging in the fuel system...

 

[top_prop]

is the vehicle still stock (24 V) or has anything been bypassed (like the GP resister on the fire wall...) has a roscommon 12V mod been done?

These details help us to tell you exactly what is wrong... for instance you got good advice a few posts above by Sandcobra164 on checking the glow plugs, but if the truck is still 24v, and the resister has not been bypassed it can fail, cause higher voltages to the plugs, and quickly burn them out, and give you volt readings higher than posted above... and this higher voltage would point you to address the GP resister --before-- you replace a plug or you'll just burn plugs out!

There are tons of threads here to read on this stuff... I know it takes time, but it will be worth it. Personally, i bypassed and removed the resister, placed the glow plugs on the 12v buss, and put in AC60G plugs... not a problem since. YMMV

 

[LeadHead]

Checking glow plugs has been covered in great detail in the CUCV section. Seems every time the weather turns cold, it's the most talked about thing. To check glow plugs, get a multimeter, remove the wire going to the glow plug, put one lead to a known good ground (alternator case is my preferred point) and the other lead to the spade terminal of the glow plug. You should have around 1.2 to 1.5 ohms of resistance on a good one. If not, you've got a bad and possibly swollen one. Another check worth trying is with all of the wires connected, check the voltage on one of the glow plugs with the key switched on (you under the hood hooked up already and a friend turns the key to RUN but not START). Anything below 12 is a good sign, over 14 is bad. Next thread you'll want to visit is Swollen Glow Plug Removal. JJandA Racing makes a neat tool for that as well as OTC 6005A. Some people loosen the plug up and just crank the truck and rev the motor till it spits out the hole but I've had no success with that method. Smoking while cranking does indicate fuel and bad glow plugs. I just replaced all 8, only 2 were working and I had the same symptoms as you.

Thanks a lot for that! That was the most detailed and well...dumbed down enough for me, that I could find by searching through here.

is the vehicle still stock (24 V) or has anything been bypassed (like the GP resister on the fire wall...) has a roscommon 12V mod been done?

These details help us to tell you exactly what is wrong... for instance you got good advice a few posts above by Sandcobra164 on checking the glow plugs, but if the truck is still 24v, and the resister has not been bypassed it can fail, cause higher voltages to the plugs, and quickly burn them out, and give you volt readings higher than posted above... and this higher voltage would point you to address the GP resister --before-- you replace a plug or you'll just burn plugs out!

There are tons of threads here to read on this stuff... I know it takes time, but it will be worth it. Personally, i bypassed and removed the resister, placed the glow plugs on the 12v buss, and put in AC60G plugs... not a problem since. YMMV

I dont believe anything has been bypassed and everything should still be stock 24v. Thanks a lot. I'll look into the bypassing.

 

[doghead]

Only the drivers side alternator, is grounded.

 

[SPECIALTYLC]

If you dont have a meter, just pull a glo plug and ground the GP body, turn on the ignition and see if it glows red. Buy a new set of correct CUCV plugs since you probably need them.

 

[sandcobra164]

Only the drivers side alternator, is grounded.

And now I've learned something today!!! I've always used that one for no reason in particular. Of course, now I'll be heading out to check that theory as well!!!

 

[timntrucks]

you didnt say if the light came on the dash indicating the glow plugs were coming on. can you hear it going thru the cycle?

 

[LeadHead]

you didnt say if the light came on the dash indicating the glow plugs were coming on. can you hear it going thru the cycle?

Sorry! Yes, the wait light does come on. And I can hear the relay switching.

 

[LeadHead]

I cant figure out what I'm doing wrong. The multimeter is set to ohms 200, I clamped the black wire to the alternator mount thing. I touch the red wired tip to the GP spade and it's still reading OL. Aint sure what that means, but it reads that the whole time. Am I doing something wrong or is it the multimeter?