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M1009 PVC snorkel I hadn't seen it done in PVC so here it is for everyone else

Marschmallow

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Although many posts did not recommend PVC, I couldn't help but wonder what it would look like. using a material that doesn't rust or corrode seemed like a plus to me, only downfall I suppose is the visible seams in the pipe to fitting connections.
A small hole has been drilled in the bottom of the inside portion of the pvc pipe, also a small hole drilled in the bottom of the air filter housing for water drainage.
In my experience in a Chevy of this type, the fan usually soaks the motor and air cleaner, This is what I am trying to prevent, momentary deep water crossings are all this truck should see, and its not worth loosing the motor that way.
Total cost of snorkel: less than $100 with paint.

I'm new here and this CUCV is my daily driver/ weekend warrior
I really enjoy this site,
thanks
 

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Monty

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Raymond Wisconsin
Looks great, if your worried about soaking the engine with the fan you can always switch to electric.

What type of lift is on your truck? (Height) What size tires?

Good looking truck by the way.
 
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OL AG '89

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Kingwood, Texas
snorkel is cool

I LIKE the PVC!!!

That's my next big project, but I want to do something that I can convert back and forth.... I'm afraid in Houston area might become a souvenier piece..... I want to do something that I can blind off at the fender and when needed just poke in and let er rip....
I have a couple of ideas but not committed to any one application.

Anybody have any thoughts?

no deepwater in my future, but ya never know....
 

jimmy-90

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Wow gotta say that thing looks good!!! Noticed you used a rubber coupling over the air cleaner housing inlet and some ducting hose. Looks like epoxy on the outside of the finder. Is there something supporting it from underneath the hood as well? The paint job looks real good on that too. What kind of paint did you use??? I have not been able to find any brand of green spray paint that will even get close to matching military carc paint.
 

CycleJay

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Although many posts did not recommend PVC, I couldn't help but wonder what it would look like. using a material that doesn't rust or corrode seemed like a plus to me, only downfall I suppose is the visible seams in the pipe to fitting connections.
A small hole has been drilled in the bottom of the inside portion of the pvc pipe, also a small hole drilled in the bottom of the air filter housing for water drainage.
In my experience in a Chevy of this type, the fan usually soaks the motor and air cleaner, This is what I am trying to prevent, momentary deep water crossings are all this truck should see, and its not worth loosing the motor that way.
Total cost of snorkel: less than $100 with paint.

I'm new here and this CUCV is my daily driver/ weekend warrior
I really enjoy this site,
thanks
Hello Marschmallow,

Looks good.
I would like to have that done too, just in case I ever have to cross a flood.
I have a 1985 M1009.
Any chance you can do that to mine, or at least assist?

Thank you, Have a good day,
CJ

P.s. I would also like to extend my exhaust pipes up to roof or hood level too...
 

Marschmallow

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If you look carefully under the hood you can see a piece of perforated steel in between battery hold down brackets, there is a bolt through the steel into 4" pvc, I used loctite to hold nut from loosening. there is one other bolt if you click on my profile I explained in a photo album.
the hole in the fender was sealed up with black silicone, just paint over it when you're done.
as for the paint I use the cammo spray paint colors found at Wal Mart. the trick to it matching good is I've painted over the faded military paint so that paint touch up and new work all matches ok, I don't have a show truck here, and it will get scratched up.
 

Brad M

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I like it

Although many posts did not recommend PVC
This is because at high temperatures such as those in the engine bay PVC can turn into Hydrogen Chloride (HCI) along with Carbon Monoxide and Carbon Dioxide.

You at least insulated it by not connecting the PVC directly to the air cleaner and have it a reasonable distance from the manifold heat. You should have no worries the way it is, but that is one reason it is not recommended.

Still it is very ingenious. [thumbzup]
 

OL AG '89

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Wait..... PVC (poly vinyl chloride) turns into HCl....... at what temperature?
not worried about the Co or Co2...... I make that and Me2 (methane) on a regular basis....
beside A. gore is covering us on the Co2 issue.......rofl

But seriously HCl..... Really?:confused:
 

Brad M

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Wait..... PVC (poly vinyl chloride) turns into HCl....... at what temperature?
not worried about the Co or Co2...... I make that and Me2 (methane) on a regular basis....
beside A. gore is covering us on the Co2 issue.......rofl

But seriously HCl..... Really?:confused:
Depends on the exact makeup of the PVC used but here is the boring data on it and how long it takes to kill a rat or baboon etc. I remembered it was some nasty stuff from working in high-rise facilities that do not allow it. But i had to go look it up at the link I attached to remember it was (HCI) myself.

Please do not forget i actually like Marschmallow's idea and think it is a very ingenious idea he had to make a snorkel on a budget.
 

OL AG '89

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o.k. I read the thread and at 150,000 times the normal exposure level the baboon died...... um yea thats like the guy who died after eating 300 bigmacs....... duh.....
so yes it creates HCl but apparently not at a dangerous level ......
probably needed to add that to your original thought about "producing" HCl


I also like the setup. I am just looking for something that I can attach and detach due to souvenier seekers ......
I like the pvc cause it inexpensive to fab, compared to bending and welding stainless.
Maybe I could do a quick connect at the fender that breathes normally until I plug in the snorkel....

My little mind is racing......
 

doghead

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Some things should not be seen, toilet pipes is one of those things.....

You don't have chrome stacks on your home toilet. do you?
 
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Brad M

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o.k. I read the thread and at 150,000 times the normal exposure level the baboon died...... um yea thats like the guy who died after eating 300 bigmacs....... duh.....
so yes it creates HCl but apparently not at a dangerous level ......
probably needed to add that to your original thought about "producing" HCl


I also like the setup. I am just looking for something that I can attach and detach due to souvenier seekers ......
I like the pvc cause it inexpensive to fab, compared to bending and welding stainless.
Maybe I could do a quick connect at the fender that breathes normally until I plug in the snorkel....

My little mind is racing......
Yep that is mostly because the link is from the VINYL ENVIROMENTAL COUNCEL who by no means would want to promote Polly Vinyl Chloride. Nevertheless, I was just mentioning that that is one reason it is not recommended. In an open environment, you have little risk of it hurting you. It is a good cheap alternative especially in the manor suggested.

If you are worried about souvenir seekers then a nice electrified metal should be your first choice :twisted: Just Kidding.

My only worry with a snorkel on the outside of the vehicle would be that someone would plug it up.

But if you are fording on a budget then again I agree that is a great idea.
 
I would have guessed it cost $101 at least :lol:
I'm sorry, but I have to agree with DH on this one. Any mods I do to my trucks are done with only one thing in mind: Respect for the MV itself. If it does not improve the looks or performance, I wouldn't do it. So you saved a couple of hundred over an actual snorkel made specifically for that model truck. You did a nice job of engineering, and I like the way it is tilted in a little to keep it looking tight, but I would have waited a month or two and saved enough Ben Franklins up to order a snorkel kit and have it done the best way possible.
I currently am working on a lift for one of my M1008s and have been doing so for 3 months because I want to keep it all american-made steel, not made in India such as Superlift has a sticker on it's springs telling us that. I'll wait another month for the next part I am making in order to do it right. I wanted to make the ride softer and more flexible so I went to 52" springs from one of my M1009s rears in front, and went to 63" springs in the rear. I could have ordered some from superlift, but then it would have Indian steel in an American icon - not right in my book. I went to a junk yard, bought the rear springs out of a 1988 chevy 3500, took them apart and got rid of the helper spring, then added the shorter bottom leafs out of the MV spring packs, then will take them on a 100-mile trip to have them re-arched to get the correct lift in back so it will not look bulldogged, and won't have any blocks. I'll also be able to use the original u-bolts. All-in-all, the wait is worth it to keep the MV looking it's best.
Not trying to hijack this thread, but you asked for opinions, and since I am the guy that will actually tell his wife she needs to lose a few pounds when she asks him if the dress makes her look fat, you have my honest and sincere opinion on your work. Hope we can still be friends, and yes, I still get some every once in a while, but probably not as often as I could if I had let her think she could keep on eating whatever she liked and not worry about the extra pounds. She knew what she signed up for when she married a registered dietitian, and being a registered nurse herself, she can take it. Her goal is to get back down to 155#, which is the perfect weight for her.
Maybe you can still fix it if the hole you cut in the fender is not too big for the real snorkel that comes in the kit. Just remember, your steel soldier has paid it's dues by surviving for the past quarter century in the Armed Forces with some of the brightest and some of the not-so-brightest drivers on the planet. As far as vehicles go, that M1009 should be prized over a Rolls Royce. Improvising on a budget and cutting holes in fenders usually are about as risky as sandpapering a bobcat's butt in a phone booth.:mrgreen:
 
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Monty

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Improvising on a budget and cutting holes in fenders usually are about as risky as sandpapering a bobcat's butt in a phone booth.:mrgreen:[/quote]

Now thats some funny stuff!

I agree on keeping it 100% american made. So what company still builds there springs in the USA?

Bringing the rears springs to the front gives you how much lift?
 

Marschmallow

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I have good intentions, really, but I've got to be more careful with these Napa parts.
this truck is far from a beauty queen , this is why I have a relaxed approach towards keeping it original. but please understand if it was a straight rust free truck, in good condition, then I could see keeping even the paint original type.
I'm seeing what I can do on a budget, so far, I have not exceed the price of what it could be sold for, including purchase price, provided, all my labor is free.
I understand that I have not purchased a fancy suspension system.
I also have had 2 or 3, multi thousand dollar suspension systems on different rigs, I seem to pass the point of every day driveability, always wanting bigger, better, more. I understand why it is done that way.
All of your comments are greatly appreciated as many people will be able to see this thread and make their own decision as a person, and with some help from enthusiasts:smile:
 

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Hogg

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I say nice job, looks good, and has possibly inspired me to do the EXACT same thing... Keep up the good work. I, like you, only have a limited budget, and a small garage to work with... So keep at em' and stand your ground. Ol Ag, I too like your detachable snorkle idea...
 

Marschmallow

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Campton, NH / Starks, ME
I measured the air pressure at the under hood end of the 4" pvc pipe using a
U tube manometer, routed tube through firewall grommet:
at idle -.2"WC
under acceleration at 15 MPH -.6"WC
at 55 MPH +1.6"WC
(14"WC(Water Column) = 1/2 PSI)
 
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