M1009 rear steel brake line size

[REDWOLF]

The steel brake line that runs down the frame to the rear brakes sprung a leak right were it is clamped over the axel in the frame rail. just need to verify that the size is 1/4 inch so I can pick up a piece of line and get it fixed tomorrow. another real quick question does any one have a trick to getting the lines apart were the steel meets the rubber hose going down to the rear. I have sprayed it with PB blaster a couple time because it is pretty rusty. thanks

 

[Recovry4x4]

Quarter inch is correct. As far as getting them loose, a quality line wrench and prayer. Soaking can't hurt. Lines going to the rear wheels are 3/16.

 

[porkysplace]

The steel brake line that runs down the frame to the rear brakes sprung a leak right were it is clamped over the axel in the frame rail. just need to verify that the size is 1/4 inch so I can pick up a piece of line and get it fixed tomorrow. another real quick question does any one have a trick to getting the lines apart were the steel meets the rubber hose going down to the rear. I have sprayed it with PB blaster a couple time because it is pretty rusty. thanks

Cut the steel line at the fitting so you can get a 6 point box end wrench on the rubber line and a 6 point socket on the fitting for the steel line.

edit: for ultra penetrating oil you can beat
[h=3]Kano Aerokroil Aerosol Penetrating Oil[/h]

 

[Matt5]

Replace all lines with NC or prebent stainless... if one went the rest are generally not far behind.

 

[REDWOLF]

Ok started working on the brake line this morning going to have to get the rubber line that runs down to the rear and replace it as well. The connection between the steel and the rubber hose is so rusted that the line wrench is either to loos or to small. I can get a 10 mm open end wrench on it but its just slipping. I have the tube and tools to make the new steel line just need to get a couple new ends and a rear hose to fix this. Anyone know what size the ends are for the steel line?

 

[REDWOLF]

Ok started working on the brake line this morning going to have to get the rubber line that runs down to the rear and replace it as well. The connection between the steel and the rubber hose is so rusted that the line wrench is either to loos or to small. I can get a 10 mm open end wrench on it but its just slipping. I have the tube and tools to make the new steel line just need to get a couple new ends and a rear hose to fix this. Anyone know what size the ends are for the steel line?

 

[cucvrus]

3/8" flare nut on the axle side. Should be 7/16" on the upper hose connection. No need to spend the $ on stainless steel. The old stuff you are working on lasted 30+ years. I restore/remanufacture and still only replace with like kind quality. These lines are the original ones from 1985 and I just scuffed them and painted them. You can buy a 4/5 ft piece of 1/4" with line connections and make that line good as new again. It is easy to bend. New P-clips are easy to find. Good Luck report back. I just gave a set of complete lines from an M1009 yesterday. They were from my donor frame and I didn't need them anymore.

 

[usmcpatriot]

Did you replace the rear valve too?

 

[cucvrus]

An M1009 does NOT have the anti skid valve on the rear frame.

 

[Keith_J]

Heat helps loosen stuck brake lines. Just be careful with flames.

If you have the room, you can clamp Vise Grips around a flare nut wrench for more torque. I have a set of 6 point crows feet which work very well in this manner.

 

[cucvrus]

I would advise against heating the brake line near a rubber hose. That hose will explode and shower you with boiling hot brake fluid. That is why they use DOT brake fluid. It has low expansion but when it does expand it blows that hose right off the crimped end. I do it all the time when cutting axles from salvage vehicles and only use the torch. POP. The brake line is off. Be safe cut the line and replace it. In the end that is the correct way to fix it right. Good Luck.