M1009 Rear Window Question.

[beltfedonly]

The tailgate window on my M1009 will drift down about a 1/4 in over time. I have replaced the glass seal that goes in the top that the window rolls up into and have a new window crank installed. Anyone know of a fix for this?

 

[NovacaineFix]

The tailgate window on my M1009 will drift down about a 1/4 in over time. I have replaced the glass seal that goes in the top that the window rolls up into and have a new window crank installed. Anyone know of a fix for this?

If you have already replaced the 2 seals on the tailgate, then it sounds like a regulator going bad, more or less the spring has lost its sprung.
The regulator's job is to keep tension on the window so it doesn't just drop into the tailgate channel and to stay in place when the window is rolled up.

If your local junkyard doesn't have one, and they might not, it's a commonly picked part, then LMC has one for $99.

the link is >>http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csb/full.aspx?Page=31

and it is this part 38-6588

 

[nyvram]

our rear window is working great at the moment. any tips (lithium grease is obvious) to keeping this working for a long time?

 

[cucvrus]

I am in the process of overhauling a gate on my Terminus M1009 project. I will be posting pictures to help a few people with the tips to keeping the gate healthy and operational. I like gates that work well and are not a constant PIA. I have had a few like that. I will take pictures and post them on my Terminus M1009 thread. I hope you find them useful. Ask questions if you want. I will be lubing and adding a few seals and protectors to my rear gate. Keep posted.

 

[nyvram]

yes definitely! i plan to pop it open to grease it and if there are a few inexpensive parts i can replace at the same time to keep it in working order it makes sense to do it at the same time.

thanks

 

[edpdx]

Here is a link to another post that addresses some of the things to do when you have the tailgate window apart. The one thing that is easy to miss after lubing and degreasing is the state of the regulator teeth. I found that it is this and not the clutch that goes when the window does not come up, and drops down arbitrarily. The diagram in the following link shows a culprit that is easy to miss and get you into trouble. It is a left threaded screw. Be sure to watch for it. If it breaks you can get one from the yard. It will be the same in an electric window.

TIP: electric window may be in the up or down position and that will make access difficult. In my pick-a-part the battery is not hooked up so there is no way to run the window motor. Take along a cordless drill. disconnect the wire that runs the window motor and chuck it into the drill to move the window up or down so you can open the tailgate and scrounge for parts.

Lastly. Get a new regulator if there is any trouble. Mine was $115 online. The rollers and reliability of new will keep your crank handle from stressing and wearing out. Also you can make your own felt window channels with fabric store felt and spray glue- saves a bunch.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ne-to-your-CUCV-today-lately-Part-1&p=1188525

 

[NovacaineFix]

Keep in mind when rebuilding your tailgate, the window channel at the very top tends to spit on both sides. Mine was like that and several others I have seen have done the same. It is a weak spot in the metal that stresses and tends to crack. Bondo and body filler will not fix it, it needs to be reinforced and welded to prevent it from splitting again. It would be a shame to paint the truck only to have the paint start chipping away due to the crack.

Here was mine in the process of being fixed.

 

[cucvrus]

I wanted to show you how to get your rear gate back in shape. First you must disassemble the entire gate and clean it out. The crank when you have it removed remove the e clip and the clutch. I scrubbed this handle with a dry old tooth brush and then I oiled it and scrub it with the old tooth brush again. The upper part on the axle of the crank/driver has an opening at the top. I use the needle connection on my grease gun and pack it full of grease and then crank the handle and grease it again.

 

[cucvrus]

Then I install the handle / crank. I use new 1/4" serrated lock nuts and a 1/4" flat washer. The next thing is to clean and lubricate the regulator assembly. Hole and chassis grease work best. WD 40 is like doing nothing. Don't waste your time on spray lube.

 

[cucvrus]

After everything is cleaned up and painted or lubed I install the rebuilt tracks. I have a secret method that works best. beats the OEM felt runs. It will never rot and keeps the window tight and rattle free. TRIM LOCK. I grease the roller tracks and used all new fasteners as always. i discard the old bolts and save the frustration of the old threads cleaning and galling. Terminus is all ready for a trip to Rausch Creek in the AM. No sleeping outside for this guy. I have a nice comfy bed and bathroom. I will drive the 27 miles in the AM and towbar Terminus M1009 with Crown of Thorns M1009. Maybe see you there. Then again maybe not. I don't want to be part of the follow the leader gang. And get bad reports back to the site. A few of my friends are going and they don't want to hang out so we are going different directions and branching out on our own. Seems better that. I will post pictures. I changed the transmission cooler lines on Terminus M1009. I bent new ones and eliminated the rubber hose and compression fittings that they had running to and an auxiliary transmission cooler. I never had one and the military did not need one so I think it will be fine. I did find a receipt in the glove box that the transmission was overhauled for $1200. in 2012 or 2014. I could not see that it was all dirty. It had 112K on it and it has 115K on it now. Good news. That explains the nice shifting and how well it drives. I hope it wheels well. Thank you for looking.

 

[cucvrus]

Sorry if I went into it to deep but the window and gate work well. And I spent nothing but time and the cost of a tube of black urethane adhesive sealant to over haul the entire gate. welding is optional. You can screw the gate together. Welding is better but screwing it together is and option.

 

[nyvram]

Awesome write up!! Definitely bookmarking this thread.

 

[cucvrus]

The rear window and gate survived 8 continuous hours of off road pounding yesterday. And guess what it still goes up and down as smooth as when I installed it. i will be adding a brush seal to the outer top edge just to keep the leaves and pine needles out. So I must have dialed it in right. I do have more of the trim lock if anyone is interested. I think you can rebuild anything. It is NOT always about throwing money at it. You need to think out side of the box and use common sense. Just because it is new and shiny does not make it the right way to go. Used and abused but proven is the way to go and the way I rock. And grease and oil. Not spray lube that is a band aid on a fatal wound. Take care and good luck with your projects. I will be fixing the squealing blower motor today on Terminus M1009.

 

[AECS]

The trim lock is for the felt channels inside the gate? Where can I find this magic material?

 

[nyvram]

I have the same question!

 

[cucvrus]

Send me an address and I can send you some. I have a roll of it. Limited supply. It works well if you clean the channels really good. I cleaned mine really good and then washed them with a wax and grease remover and used a urethane black adhesive/sealant to hold it in. I clamped it in a few days to make sure it dried and taped off the trim lock runs and painted the tracks with dull aluminum paint. I put some vaseline in the tracks and ran it up and down on the edge of the glass and cleaned and polished sash. It is also important to clean the metal sash on the bottom of the glass. Pay special attention to the ends of that sash. That is the part that does the traveling in the run and it should be polished and lubed with a vaseline or light grease. Trust me it works well. I have a limited supply of the trim lock. It would be better yet to remove the metal sash from the bottom of the window and clean the groove out really good and then reattach it with the urethane. i did this and clamped it with bar clamps amazing results. Better then new. I did post picture of the operation in my Terminus M1009 thread. PM if you have questions. The shipping cost is all I ask in return. Thank you.

 

[nyvram]

thank you!! message sent

 

[AECS]

Awesome, message inbound.

 

[cucvrus]

I took the time to disassemble another M1009 gate. I am going to rebuild this one as a spare. I have a few M1009's that the gates have all been rebuilt on. I will show you how to rebuild the glass channels if you are interested. I harvested these 2 glass channels from this gate. A bit rusty but a in great shape as cores for my trim lock rebuild. A few people have showed interest in this. Beats the felt runs without a doubt. This is the last time you will ever need to repair these channels.

 

[Hondo69]

Have a question about replacing rear window bracket window. Long story short, the crank handle broke off my 1984 CUCV and thought it would be easy to replace but found the problem. Had to replace roller on regulator then the bars for the window and the lower metal bracket for window. Got the replacements including the rubber gasket for the channel at the bottom of the window. Here's the thing, the window is still loose, the gasket doesn't prevent it from coming out of bracket. Am I supposed to use some type of glue or gasket seal to keep the window in the bracket channel?