m1009 Rear Window Troubles...of course

[bp m1009]

ok so my rear window has been messed up for a while now. it randomly came off the track and wont go up straight anymore it binds close to the top and wont close all the way and wen i crank the window down it just stays wedged there until i force it down. my question is what should i do to fix it? new regulater, clutch, and felts? and also how do you adhere the window glass back onto the track?

 

[2deuce]

Is something in the Track? Will it crank out with the tailgate down? I have taken mine apart, cleaned and lubed it to make it work better. My inside handle was messed up too. If something holds your tailgate from latching, the glass will not roll up all the way. The key is not to force anything or you will be looking for parts.

 

[84cucv1ton]

cleaning and lube made a big difference in mine too

 

[Warren Lovell]

I had the same problem with mine. Turns out the bottom horizontal track somehow got bent. I bought a new track from LMC truck parts and bought the rubber liner that holds the glass in. I also check my side verticle runners and found the felt had worn away. I replaced those too. Everything works good now, but it is a lot tighter and doesnt rattle. make sure you use some sort of adhesive to put the rubber in the bottom rail and then an adhesive for the glass.

 

[tommygun]

Take the metal cover off the inside of the tailgate . Roll the glass about halfway down , check the witness marks on the front of the regulator to make sure they line up. If not the regulator is "out of time" and the window will not roll up correctly it will be crooked in the track. To fix remove regulator and crank till the gears no longer mesh and adjust till marks align

 

[wreckerman893]

Ask Clinto about his issue with the rear window in his CUCV.

They have always been problematic....the regulator mechanism was designed by an idiot after confering with a group of morons.

 

[thedeliverator]

Mine's currently blocked in place with some pieces of wood; when I get the funds I'm going to look for an electric replacement.

 

[grayw0lf]

Its likely your regulator having troubles b/c its worn slap out. That is likely exacerbated by your channel felts rotted out.

But definately try & lube it first. Silicon lube works great on window felts & doesn't oil up the glass.

 

[2deuce]

All of the felt/channel is worn out in the tailgate in mine. It squeaks and rattles as I roll it up and down. Could use another lube job. It was all apart in the back of the truck when I got it. Since you can't drive these trucks with the back window down without a truck full of exhaust fumes anyway, I only care about the channel holding the glass in the top when its up. This is a flimsy mechanism, that was designed for 2 things, to bring the glass up and down during warranty and to make money on parts for GM afterward. If your window sticks, stop and figure out why. If you continue to crank when there is a bind you will regret it. Mine has bound up many times and its always something keeping the gate from closing completely on one side. The latch to open the gate can become bound up by shutting the gate hard with something in the way. Once had $300 worth of groceries from costco in the back and something was hitting the gate under it all. Pouring rain in the dark, jammed tight, window wouldn't go all the way up and the gate wouldn't open. The tire iron was jammed under the tire and against the gate. Still have the rotting groceries back there from last year. Seriously, it was a real pain removing everything thru the front and still couldn't get it out and the gate open without removing the spare tire.

 

[spartan_185]

The little wheel on the right side of my regulator jumped out of the channel and produced the symptoms you describe. I just took the cover plate off of the door, pulled the window out half way, put the little wheel back in the channel, and bent the openings on each end of the channel in a little bit. The little wheel (for lack of a better term) gets worn out and becomes small enough to jump out of the end of the track.

 

[bp m1009]

alright guys lots of advice here, now to take action. im gonna pull the panel off this weekend sometime and investigate more. All GM nationals at carlisle this weekend btw for anyone whos interested, thats where im gonna be

 

[AIRWARRIOR]

I had the same problem with mine. Turns out the bottom horizontal track somehow got bent. I bought a new track from LMC truck parts and bought the rubber liner that holds the glass in. I also check my side verticle runners and found the felt had worn away. I replaced those too. Everything works good now, but it is a lot tighter and doesnt rattle. make sure you use some sort of adhesive to put the rubber in the bottom rail and then an adhesive for the glass.

I ordered a new sash and rubber strip from LMC to redo my rear window. The rubber strip was thinner that the original that was in my CUCV. Needless to say, the window was very loose and not secure. From what I have been told, adhesive is not suppose to be needed to hold the window in. It has been some time since this post and I'm curious if you have had any problems since with the window using the adhesive. And, what adhesive did you use or recommend? Thanks!

 

[m38inmaine]

I would think before you put the glass in the channel you could carefully squeeze it tighter making the channel narrower so just the rubber will hold it.

 

[cucvrus]

I have been using urethane adhesive more 20 tears to hold the rear window into the sash. Do make sure as a word of caution you put the sash on the correct way. I done it once. I was fortunate enough that the adhesive had not set up yet and turned it around. I have had no problems with them ever coming loose again. That swedge method works fine from factory they had a press that could put them on. Just trying to help. The rear window and gate is a very primitive and complex system. I have been using off the shelf items to rebuild the rear gates with great results. Polishing the sash guides and painting them is also a secret along with some new side runners. Real grease and oil also help with the regulator and guides. Spray lube. NOT so well. Good luck. I will be out taking advantage of the 18* weather today. I have a tree that fell in the pasture that is partially in the stream and I will attempt to cut the top off and drag it (skid it) with Crown of Thorns M1009. Oh Joy. I have a mustache full of ice already from working outside this morning. Grand Daughter told me I had onions in my beard and mustache. I can help with some Trim Lok seal for your side felt runs if you like. Have a Great Day. Stay warm and dry.

 

[dougco1]

I ordered a new sash and rubber strip from LMC to redo my rear window. The rubber strip was thinner that the original that was in my CUCV. Needless to say, the window was very loose and not secure. From what I have been told, adhesive is not suppose to be needed to hold the window in. It has been some time since this post and I'm curious if you have had any problems since with the window using the adhesive. And, what adhesive did you use or recommend? Thanks!

I replaced mine in 2011 and used black urethane windshield caulk. I had to leave it uninstalled overnight for the caulk to cure. Just fill the channel with the caulk and slip the glass in. After it cures you trim the excess with a razor and your good to go. And don't forget to wear rubber gloves or you will be running around with black fingers for days.

 

[m1009SouthHessen]

Is something in the Track? Will it crank out with the tailgate down? I have taken mine apart, cleaned and lubed it to make it work better. My inside handle was messed up too. If something holds your tailgate from latching, the glass will not roll up all the way. The key is not to force anything or you will be looking for parts.

sry old thread heated up

sry for my english, i drive an m1009 in germany and got similar problem.

what do you mean with "track" is it the guide rail left and right inside the tailgate?

 

[cucvrus]

I will try and help you. The track is in the tailgate. Right and left. easily removable after you disassemble the entire gate and remove the glass. Be Careful.

CUCV head gasket / head/ or change engine survey

I was out a little earlier today.Rebuilding the rear window runs and getting a chrome tailgate handle ready for paint. More later. I have paint drying.

www.steelsoldiers.com

Check out this thread. I have used a rubber trim lock product and it works great. Done it on several M1009's. Never had to revisit the issue again. keep in mind to use oil and grease for lubrication. Clean everything as you go. Sand and clean any rough corroded areas. Sorry I don't speak German. Have a Great Day and Good Luck.

 

[m1009SouthHessen]

i never expected that you speak german... i ask at an american website so i translate everything to german... that is my problem xD

at my track are some kind of indefinable stuff (at one place)

i dont know if i understand you right... should in the track these rubber trim lock product or should it clean?

 

[m1009SouthHessen]

ahhh at the other thread i can see the problem solution

the problem at my tailgate is the leftovers from the seal

did i need these sealing?

at my tailgate is nothing like these only the leftovers

 

[cucvrus]

You do need a rubber/fiber guide. The window needs to be secured in the track so it can go up and down in the track. Metal against the glass ends up with binding and broken tempered glass. LMC makes the guides and they work well as long as everything else in the gate is clean and polished. If the metal sash on the bottom of the gate glass is rusty and corroded it creates drag in the channels/guides that results in friction and more wear on the other parts of the gate. the regulator and crank are not the strongest when they must be forced up and down. Cleaning, greasing and oiling everything goes a long way to the gate window and gate operation. These are very crude gates by todays standards. They have been subjected to 30+ years of use and abuse. A little attention goes a long way to keep them operational with little effort. Good Luck. You pay the shipping and I will send you the Trim Lok material. Or use this thread https://www.trimlok.com/
https://www.trimlok.com/plastic-extrusion/edge-trim I would think the 1/4" would be the ticket to get the job done. Glue it in and call it fixed. I came back and looked because I received a PM. Wanted to make sure I was answering your PM correctly. The Trim Lok you need weighs less than 1 Lb. 0.453592 KG. I hope that helps.