I'd ride in the back of that thing, no seat, no seat belt, just hanging on to the bars like an ape.
No shame in being an ape.
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M1009 roll cage & rock slider build
- Thread starter olly hondro
- Start date
No shame in being an ape.
ballencd
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Really nice looking cage there. What are you bending and cutting the pipe with? How are you attaching the sliders to the frame? Any more pictures on the underside of the sliders? I'm needing some on my Suburban soon. Thanks and again.....Nice job!
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I think even with the rear bar picked in, you gain strength in the frame mount. My son has an S10 blazer with a 8 pt bar. No back seat but we have toyed with the idea of a single racing bucket back there.
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more detailed pix
Here are more pix, with design comments.
The rocker panel is "pinched" rather than cut. This is to preserve the strength and there is a straight shot to the frame.
center connector. The Fabricator says that one can weld along the length of the frame however you want, but vertical welds create a stress point where cracking will initiate. So you will see many examples of what look like incomplete vertical welds, on purpose.
material is 1/4 wall, 2 inch square.
Here are more pix, with design comments.
The rocker panel is "pinched" rather than cut. This is to preserve the strength and there is a straight shot to the frame.
center connector. The Fabricator says that one can weld along the length of the frame however you want, but vertical welds create a stress point where cracking will initiate. So you will see many examples of what look like incomplete vertical welds, on purpose.
material is 1/4 wall, 2 inch square.
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some more details
The mirror is no longer mounted to the windshield. Lost the visors, but recall there is an exterior visor.
A view of a top front corner
The tubing connectors are these:
In principle, the cage is removable at these connectors. Except for the lower stubs that drop thru the floor and welded to the slider elements.
The mirror is no longer mounted to the windshield. Lost the visors, but recall there is an exterior visor.
A view of a top front corner
The tubing connectors are these:
In principle, the cage is removable at these connectors. Except for the lower stubs that drop thru the floor and welded to the slider elements.
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the rear brace
The design is to acomodate a 40" tire laying flat with a tailgate on, if I were to put one on. Pictured is 37" that I currently run. A bigger tire could be mounted against the roll cage, prerunner stlye, but I am reserving that spot for a radiator, maybe. Electric fans are awfully noisy.
The outside bolts are the body mount bolts to the frame. The center has only a backing plate underneath the bed.
We were able to save one rifle mount.
Anything else you want to see before I prime & paint?
The design is to acomodate a 40" tire laying flat with a tailgate on, if I were to put one on. Pictured is 37" that I currently run. A bigger tire could be mounted against the roll cage, prerunner stlye, but I am reserving that spot for a radiator, maybe. Electric fans are awfully noisy.
The outside bolts are the body mount bolts to the frame. The center has only a backing plate underneath the bed.
We were able to save one rifle mount.
Anything else you want to see before I prime & paint?
ballencd
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Thanks for the pictures of the slider mounting. Looks very solid. What is the name of the connector you welded into the roll cage? I've never seen them before. I assume they are so you can remove to get access to something and/or get the cage into place...??? Nice job!
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The connectors are called Tube Clamp: fits 1-1/2" ID, 1-3/4" OD x 0.120" Wall Tube. Two Pieces w/Hardware.
Now I know some will comment that there could be more bracing, triangulation etc. The instructions that I gave the Fabricator were: "Primary Objective is to keep the roof from caving in, specifically the A-pillars. I don't care about saving the truck or its sheet metal." and " When you get to three thousand dollars then STOP, that's all I have to budget."
Now that its all done, he cautions me: " Now just because you have a cage that doesn't make you an invincible rock buggy, this is a SAVE YOUR LIFE ONCE cage". The expectation , if I ever do roll it over, is to rebuild it.
Now I know some will comment that there could be more bracing, triangulation etc. The instructions that I gave the Fabricator were: "Primary Objective is to keep the roof from caving in, specifically the A-pillars. I don't care about saving the truck or its sheet metal." and " When you get to three thousand dollars then STOP, that's all I have to budget."
Now that its all done, he cautions me: " Now just because you have a cage that doesn't make you an invincible rock buggy, this is a SAVE YOUR LIFE ONCE cage". The expectation , if I ever do roll it over, is to rebuild it.
ballencd
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I think it looks great but would like to see another picture or two of the outside again. Thanks for the info on the Tube Clamps. They are pretty cool. Charlie
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okeydokey:
Camel Driver
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Nice work! And a nice change of pace after seeing an internet full of yahoos that think they know what they are doing attempt to build a roll cage. I do believe you and your passenger/victim 
should be nice and safe! But keep the proper side up please!
should be nice and safe! But keep the proper side up please!ballencd
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Very nice looking cage. Makes me want another M1009. I drove mine for 18 years and ended up selling it when I had 3 boys that had to be put in the back every time we went somewhere. I have a Suburban now, and like it, but its not an M1009 and I really miss the diesel. The Suburban has a/c too which is nice but that could be installed in the blazer. Thanks for the extra pictures.
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You are welcome. Suburbans have M1007 clone potential...just sayin'
ballencd
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M1007 - Thats not a bad idea....
I had not thought of that conversion. My 91 Burb is in great shape with only 124000 miles on it and it is already tan. I might start looking for a M1009 donor vehicle for the military parts. Mine is only a 1/2 ton but I don't four wheel at all. Just use it to get out of the drive and not get stuck. I have been thinking about a diesel conversion as mine is gas with a 700R4 trans in it already.
I had not thought of that conversion. My 91 Burb is in great shape with only 124000 miles on it and it is already tan. I might start looking for a M1009 donor vehicle for the military parts. Mine is only a 1/2 ton but I don't four wheel at all. Just use it to get out of the drive and not get stuck. I have been thinking about a diesel conversion as mine is gas with a 700R4 trans in it already.
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I did, a Dodge D-50 (Mitsubishi). It was orange, decal'ed, and electric powered