M1009 spindle bearing replacement

[85CUCVtom]

Alright, I've searched high and low looking for the answer to my question.

I have to replace the passenger side spindle on my Blazer, the threads are significantly damaged. So I'm going to replace the drivers side spindle bearing for good measure. Ive never done this before and have read that some spindle bearings must be pressed in to a specific depth. Is this spindle like that or is there some sort of lip that stops the bearing from going in to far?

I looked in the TM and was having a hard time finding my answers. Thanks.

 

[camogriz]

The bearings are not pressed on. The whole operation of changing the spindle and bearings is able to be done with simple hand tools. There is a special spindle nut socket necessary, but it is a chevy truck and that socket can be found at the auto parts store with little trouble. The bearings have to be seated until they bottom out on a lip or shoulder on the bottom of the spindle shaft.You do that by tightening the spindle nut all the way and then the nut is backed off about 3/8 of a turn and the lock ring and second spindle nut is installed. Do one side at a time so you can refer to the other side if you run into trouble. On another note, those spindles are kind of pricey. If the driver's side is undamaged, there is no reason to change it. By all means buy new bearings for the other side and install them if it makes you feel better. Hope this helps.

 

[85CUCVtom]

The bearings are not pressed on. The whole operation of changing the spindle and bearings is able to be done with simple hand tools. There is a special spindle nut socket necessary, but it is a chevy truck and that socket can be found at the auto parts store with little trouble. The bearings have to be seated until they bottom out on a lip or shoulder on the bottom of the spindle shaft.You do that by tightening the spindle nut all the way and then the nut is backed off about 3/8 of a turn and the lock ring and second spindle nut is installed. Do one side at a time so you can refer to the other side if you run into trouble. On another note, those spindles are kind of pricey. If the driver's side is undamaged, there is no reason to change it. By all means buy new bearings for the other side and install them if it makes you feel better. Hope this helps.

Correct.


But I'm referring to the bearing inside the spindle. Just to the outside of the u-joint, its a needle bearing that rolls on the stub shaft. Appears that it presses into the backside (inboard side) of the spindle. I know you need a pliot bearing puller to get it out.

 

[camogriz]

Ok, that bearing. Ha ha. That bearing also has a lip to stop it's further travel inside the spindle. It can be carefully installed with a slightly larger socket and hammer. The worst part is getting it started. Use a lot of grease to get it in. Once it's in it's fairly easy to seat in place. I had the same problem when I got my M1009. One side clearly got water in it and it was never serviced. Rust was abundant. I changed the whole mess at home with no real problem.

 

[camogriz]

Oh, yeah, after the small bearing was started, I used a brass punch to carefully seat it.

 

[85CUCVtom]

Cool. Thanks. No rust on mine just really nasty grease.

I'm gonna add some pictures to this thread detailing the bearing removal and install. To make it a little more useful for everyone else.

 

[camogriz]

Sounds good and good luck with it.