M1009 steel brake line diameter/size

[86M10086.2L]

Does anyone know what diameter the steel brake lines are on a M1009. Had a line blow out on me last night on my way to work. Not with the truck right now so I can measure myself. Trying to do some shopping for a 25-50ft roll of brake line and fittings to replace most of the lines on the truck. This way hopefully the parts will be here for the weekend and I won't have to spend local store prices.

 

[Chaski]

Most of it is 3/16” line with 3/8-24 nuts.

I’d suggest plain old galvanized steel line or Nicop for ease of bending and flaring

 

[cucvrus]

The front to back run is 1/4" the rear axle center R to L is 3/16". You can buy a 6 ft piece of 1/4" and make it look original.

 

[86M10086.2L]

I don't plan on messing with stainless lines. I have a hydraulic flaring tool but it's not rated for stainless. I'm planning on using the nickel/copper mix lines or regular coated steel. Stainless is too expensive and hard to work with. Not worth it for my truck. Thanks for all the info

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Nickel/copper is very easy to work with, and is more corrosion resistant than stainless. I don't know why anyone would use stainless on a working vehicle. Maybe on a show vehicle....

 

[Matt5]

Never use mild steel brake lines, they will fail in a few years again... NC or, if you blew a line, I would replace them *ALL* get a set of stainless pre bent from inlinetube and never worry again. If one is rusted though, the rest are likely not far behind.

 

[antennaclimber]

Never use mild steel brake lines, they will fail in a few years again... NC or, if you blew a line, I would replace them *ALL* get a set of stainless pre bent from inlinetube and never worry again. If one is rusted though, the rest are likely not far behind.

I called Inline Tube a couple of weeks ago to order new brake lines. The person that answered the phone informed me that they have "no brake lines for a K30 Chevy. We have nothing for trucks over 3/4 ton"

I just said "Ok, good bye."

 

[Matt5]

If that is the case then you must not be able to shop anywhere.

CTB8149 is a k30

I would call back and inform them one of the sales people does not know what they offer. As for the OP my statement stands of call them for a stainless line set. It's worth the money, everything is already flared, bent, and cut to size vs doing your own. Ya its a little cheaper to use NC and your own fittings (I think they use stainless fittings at inlinetube but don't quote me on it) but its a pain. If one line went the rest are not far behind, something like brakes, your way better off doing them all now, stainless (its like a $20 up charge from mild) and never worrying about it again.

But again NEVER use anything but NC or SS, it will rot out in no time, the stuff they make anymore is garbage, any decent shop around here won't even do the job unless its OE, NC, or SS line. They refuse to have the line they replaced go bad a few years down the road.

 

[cucvrus]

IMHO stainless steel brake lines are not needed. I have a CUCV salt spreader on a truck for 20 years and I only replaced the rear lines 1 time using a 6 ft length of dark greenish 1/4" coated brake line from Autozone. While I was there I done the axle 3/16'' lines and the axle to frame hose. I even lubed and changed the lines on the anti lock mechanism. I mean salt truck is a true test. Of course you can throw money and expensive parts at everything on the truck. But short of taking the cab off the frame and starting all over IMHO stainless steel is NOT required and will be the only thing left when the frame snaps in 2 from rust. It has over 30 year head start. Because fuel lines fuel return line are all just standard galvanized plated steel tubing and made it this far with out the care most people are giving their trucks now. Do as you wish. I noted IMHO. The frame is still steel unless someone is making stainless steel frames and truck cabs. Have a Great Day.

 

[86M10086.2L]

So as I figured one of the lines that runs below the radiator for the front brakes was severely rusty and blew out. Also as expected and mentioned by several other members. Most if not all of the steel line in the front of the truck are equally poor looking. So now begins the slow and arduous process of replacing them all one by one. I'm likely going to order some rolls of nickel copper line to replace the brake and various other steel lines in the engine compartment. I'll try my best to post progress on here as I go along. All this rust makes me really want to move to Texas.

 

[McLovin]

Hey guys,
need to replace also my brake lines in the rear (M1009 original 10 Bolt).
As i understood, lines are 3/16 and nuts 3/8-24 (unc or unf?).
Are the flares then DIN or SAE standard?

Will this tool work for this job (just as example)?
https://www.amazon.de/Vigor-B%C3%B6rdelger%C3%A4t-Durchmesser-Anzahl-Werkzeuge/dp/B01LSW3X4S/ref=pd_sbs_60_5/260-0668937-0933720?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LSW3X4S&pd_rd_r=3055b95f-f9c0-4bfa-9fce-2ba5236ec6fa&pd_rd_w=b6Lit&pd_rd_wg=vD80o&pf_rd_p=184816e4-edb5-4587-8faf-776e0027d8d1&pf_rd_r=21GN3BHEG7AP1EQGRWGD&psc=1&refRID=21GN3BHEG7AP1EQGRWGD

Update:
As i can see here:

https://www.amazon.de/ROTOOLS-Brems...eitung+sae&qid=1573040352&s=automotive&sr=1-4

SAE can have 'F' and 'E' flares.

Which one will be used for M1009?

Thank you

 

[cucvrus]

I never heard of any of them terms for flares. I use a Snap-On double flaring tool. I have had to buy bubble flares for imports. But on the good old 99% of the vehicles the old double flare tool done the job. Good Luck.

 

[McLovin]

Thank you cucvrus.
I think you mean such a tool, right?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDSL8AY0lBQ

 

[cucvrus]

That is the exact tool. Easy as that. Thank you.

 

[McLovin]

The problem with the germans is, that they always 'overingeneer' things and make thousands of standards

Thank you for the name of the tool cucvrus

 

[86M10086.2L]

These trucks use the standard 45 deg double flare on the brake lines. Any off the shelf non-metric flaring tool will do the job. Some just better than others. They are also seen in the refrigeration industry. 37 deg flares are A/N standard seen in aviation, some marine and aftermarket racing applications. All those goofy red and blue or all black fittings and hard lines you see. Those are/should be A/N. ISO/Bubble flares are used on most imports and many current domestic vehicles. If you find yourself doing this kind of work often. Look into a hydraulic flaring tool. It’s a game changer

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

If you find yourself doing this kind of work often. Look into a hydraulic flaring tool. It’s a game changer

That it is. I got a MasterTool hydraulic a few years ago, and I would never go back. It's worth every penny of it.

 

[McLovin]

Have bought this tools for the job:

1) flaring tool (made in UK):
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0105V0DDW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uEBh3kNvlMw

2) Pliers to bend the lines:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07F2Z5LDN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3) Copper nickel lines 5m 3/16" - 4.75mm:
https://auprotec.com/bremsleitung-oe-4-75-mm-kunifer-meterware?number=300213475.3

4) Steel Nuts 3/8 - 24
https://auprotec.com/verschraubung-boerdel-e-3/8-x24-typ-s-laenge-18-0-mm

I hope this will work as expected

Thank you guys for your help.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Remember, pics or it didn't happen!

 

[Recovry4x4]

If that is the case then you must not be able to shop anywhere.

CTB8149 is a k30

I would call back and inform them one of the sales people does not know what they offer. As for the OP my statement stands of call them for a stainless line set. It's worth the money, everything is already flared, bent, and cut to size vs doing your own. Ya its a little cheaper to use NC and your own fittings (I think they use stainless fittings at inlinetube but don't quote me on it) but its a pain. If one line went the rest are not far behind, something like brakes, your way better off doing them all now, stainless (its like a $20 up charge from mild) and never worrying about it again.

But again NEVER use anything but NC or SS, it will rot out in no time, the stuff they make anymore is garbage, any decent shop around here won't even do the job unless its OE, NC, or SS line. They refuse to have the line they replaced go bad a few years down the road.

I've known about the pre-bent lines, just never looked into them. I just checked out the part number you listed and came up questioning it. It surely does list it's application as K-30. Does it come with a few pieces of extra line? K30 was available in 131.5, 135.5, 159.5 and 164.5 wheelbases. I know all CUCV trucks have the 131.5" WB but that's not true for the K-30.