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M1009 Tailgate crank

cucvrus

Well-known member
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I have a machine shop that makes the clutch part for me. They are pricey but they are bulletproof. If I see enough of a market I may ask him to make clutches and cranks. The type that lock with a pad lock work the best. Any interest? I will look into it. But I need demand for these. The more parts the cheaper they will be.
 

Bronx Boy

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Southern NH
Suggestions most helpful!

If you still have the tabs for the clutch you could possibly fix the broken clutch and reenforce the way I did mine. Mine was not broken but it would work the same way.

I bought one of the LMC clutches it lasted 9 days before the tabs broke off. I reenforced the to older one I had and reinstalled about 6 months ago and still working strong.

Look at this write up and see what you think. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?121551-Tailgate-crank-clutch-fix-upgrade&highlight=

One other thing. I agree if you have to replace the regulator spend the extra and get the GM one!
Thank you guys. Both posts have helped me a lot. We were able to crank the window up using a metal rod to engage the regulator and then use the crank to raise the window.

It turns out the clutch and handle failed.

I am away for a few days, but when I return I will take a serious look at the clutch repair. I will investigates non LMC clutch options.

Thanks again!
 

Cannoncocker

Member
43
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6
Location
Yucca Valley CA
I have several M1009 Blazers and the rear window crank can be a real pain if everything inside is not keep lubed. Everyone of mine were hard to roll up and down and a couple were damaged inside from years of hard use. I picked up a new chrome outside handle assembly from LMC Trucks and sand blasted it until the chrome turned gray. I gave it several light coats of self-etching primer and several coats of flat black paint. Still looks good after years in the California sun. I installed a new clutch and lubed and greased everything inside the tailgate and it has worked great. Good Luck
 

cucvrus

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The tracks and the metal sash on the bottom of the rear glass are equally as important. Replace the 2 side felt lined window tracks they are not cheap but worth it and then polish the ends of the metal sash on the bottom of the window. I say polish because I use a 2" Rolok polishing disk on a small angle grinder and polish them till they look chrome. Silicone spray the new track felts and adjust them so thay are not tight just snug. You will be amazed at the ease the window works. And keeping the handle lubed and the pivot point on the folding part of the handle packed with a little grease goes a long way. I have the same OEM handle on 2 of my M1009's. Also if you can still get them replace the small tracks that bolt on the bottom of the sah. I also polish them with the 2" Rolok and grease them reaal good. I have a quick fix for M1009 rust repair that I will share as soon as I get my picture posting skills better honed.
 

Bronx Boy

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It's taken a few months to finally get the crank fixed and report back to you. I offer the following to generate ideas. It's not an easy fix but it certainly works well.

Based on the comments here in the forum, I took your advice and looked at a non-LMC solution.

Here is what I and two friends came up with. I'm sorry to say I don't have pictures. I hope my description will be adequate.

Given the bad replacement part scenario we decided to replace the pawl and the clutch as both were broken. The window is now cranked using a 1/2 inch ratchet.

We cut off the clutch from the handle mechanism, essentially leaving a hole.

The clutch piece that normally engages the regulator was fabricated using a pipe coupling of about 1 inch diameter. This pipe coupling fits inside the existing handle. This coupling was put on its end side by side with the clutch piece. My friend who is a very skilled welder and metal fabricator, looked at the clutch and essentially cut away side pieces of the pipe and left behind a heavy duty piece of pipe that loosely fits on top of the regulator, but actually has more contact with the regulator than the original clutch.

This clutch replacement extended through the handle where it was welded to a washer we used as a spacer ( I think he cut the coupling about an 1/8 inch too short). The overall length of our fix, matched the original length.

On the outside face of the handle, we took an old 1/2 socket (thick walls) and trimmed off the socket end. We then took a very large washer that snugly fit around the diameter of the socket.

The washer diameter was ground down enough that it would fit inside the handle. The washer surrounding the socket and the remainig half of the socket, were welded together, then fit thru the hole in the handle and then welded to the washer side of the fabricated clutch.

What you see now, as you crank the window is the 1/2 inch socket hole. We have to go back and fabricate some way to attach the old crank handle to the original faceplate. We are thinking of using wire to do this.

Yes, I realize that this is not original. And that currently the ratchet hole is subject to the weather. Any holes in the cover plate and to the outside have been sealed with waterproof caulking. The inside area was lubed with lithium grease while the side to the elements was lubed with oil.

I've painted the exposed side (ratchet hole) with a rust resistant black paint. I'll add a touch of green, when I get a chance. But right now I like the "black" look.

I bought a 1/2 inch / 3/8 combination ratchet at Tractor Supply with a very long handle. This makes it easy to open.

It took a while to get it done, but it is functional and it works for me!

Clearly, this isn't an easy fix to make, but if you have access to the welding / cutting skills, it could be considered an alternative approach; or at least get you thinking in a new way.

Costs:

Old 1/2 socket .50 (from a place here that sells old tools and materials (REstore if you have one)

1 inch inside diameter washer (I had one)

Piece of pipe with the coupling (I had it behind the house)

Other washer (I also had).

Up until the time my welder friend came by I didn't know I was going to need or use the pipe. I had some other ideas that fell quickly away. I did have the socket side figured out however. Paul came up with the idea to cut into the pipe, we had a coupling that we used instead of cutting the pipe.

All of this because of bad replacement parts! THANKS for the heads up and terrific advice!!!

Yes, I paid my welder friend. We also had some pizza! The amazing part of all this is that he did this in my driveway at night.
 

cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Not to rain on your parade Private Bronx Boy. But I have to say it. The new parts are not the failure that you think they are. It sounds like that rear window is being forced up and down. There is no way that you need to use a ratchet and socket to crank that window up and down. If a new handle and clutch broke while you were operating the window. I have to say that the tracks and guides are not sliding and going as designed. If everything in the rear gate is clean and adjusted properly. And the channels have good felt runs in them along with a clean sash guide you should be good. Not to mention the tension you are putting on the regulator. These gates are fairly easy design but they are old and special needs are in order to keep these operating as designed. If you get a bigger hammer you can break and move anything. I think your design needs to be looked into for the root cause of the problem. There is something much bigger going on inside that gate. You have just moved the weakest link to another point inside the gate. The rear glass will not like that kind of pressure. It seems to fall to pieces under pressure. Pun intended. Good Luck but rethink you crank it is not the answer to your problem.
 

Mainsail

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Puget Sound, WA
^^^^

I was thinking the same thing. I always assumed it was called a clutch because it was designed to be the weak link in the system- to protect something more expensive and/or more difficult to repair.
 

carter262

Member
152
11
18
Location
NC
When I was looking at at M1009s to buy I ran across one where some one had done something similar to Bronx Boy. They had removed the crank handle, presumably due to it breaking, and put a nut on it where the handle went. A socket wrench was then used to roll the rear window up and down. Different but it worked.

Just an update about my fix. It is still running strong with no issues with the clutch. The only issue I am having at the moment is that the studs on the backside of the handle assembly have broken off, so I need to get a new handle assembly. But that shouldn't be to big a problem.
 

Bronx Boy

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Thanks for your comment.

I should have mentioned that the entire window mechanism was cleaned and lubricated. I also used paint reformer on some parts showing rust. The window moves easily. It is not under any tension. The ratchet is essentially a replacement handle. Sorry for the confusion.

I will go back and install felt in the window guides. Thanks for the reminder.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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10,397
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Just an update about my fix. It is still running strong with no issues with the clutch. The only issue I am having at the moment is that the studs on the backside of the handle assembly have broken off, so I need to get a new handle assembly. But that shouldn't be to big a problem.

If that is all that is wrong. You can repair that with elevator bolts. They are available at hardware stores and have a big flat head and a square shank like a carriage bolt. They are very usefil for seat installations and such. They will work for the rear gate handle. You will need to grind the head to fit down in the hole that the crank folds into and you will be good to go. They call them elevator bolts because they are the same bolts that are on the bottom of appliances and machinery and you can adjust for leveling the item. They have a nice big flat washer head that helps for welding and using in areas that you need some support. Just an idea. Good luck with that. If you have the OEM black handle that may be a good inexpensive fix.
 

deercoker

Member
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Location
jonesborough/Tennessee
Just got a new chrome one from A-1 Auto Recyclers in Penrose Colorado without the lock cylinder. My CUCV was missing everthing so they also sent me a used one with a lock cylinder all for $70! including shipping, call Rich there at 719-372-6588
 
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