m1009 transfer case rear seal replacement

[Gunfighter1]

Ive got a 86 m1009 with a 208 tcase. The rear outputshaft seal was leaking pretty bad so i dropped the drive shaft and attempted to pull it but its in there pretty **** good and hard to get a screwdriver in there to pop out with the output shaft sticking out the middle. So far ive just managed to mangle it pretty good but make no progress on getting it out. Anybody got any advice,tips, or tricks for getting the thing out? Seemed like a simple job but you know how that goes

 

[Hasdrubal]

I've had issues with that seal leaking, had it replaced several times over the years. Might have something to do with my 4" lift and original length driveshaft. Recently had the transfer case re-sealed as it was leaking at the split-case. They showed me the bushing that sits behind the seal, last mechanic who changed the seal had put a big gouge in the bushing, so be careful. I understood, a screwdriver is pushed in slightly and is used to pry it out. Its been leak free now for 6 months.

 

[bikerted86]

Yeah there is no easy way to do it I have had some I had to put a couple sheetmetal screws into and pry them out using the head of the screw, Careful not to go too far and damage anything else.

I doubt it with the age of the truck I would lean towards just a bad seal,
But that bushing being worn or flawed will cause too much run out on the driveshaft. That extra movement will kill a seal in no time flat.

 

[Gunfighter1]

Thanks for the advice, greatly appreciated. To bad its raining out today and i cant finish the work or paint my roll cage. Is there a bearing right behind the seal? The lip of the tcase doesnt look damaged, i did lift it 2 inches and think i need to lengthen the shaft because it was sticking out a good bit. Might be time for a slip yoke eliminator. So far i just managed to get the rubber seal out and a few peices of metal that i could set a flathead under.

 

[bikerted86]

The bushing that is in there is more like a cam bearing, most are bronze and a pain to do. If it was the original seal you took out I would replace it and see how it goes no leaks no worries. Usually 2 inches of lift isnt enough to need a sye. You can mark your shaft then take it out and see how much is really in the transfercase. Not 100% on this application but if you need a little more length they sell slip yokes that are longer ( I know they do for jeeps).

 

[Gunfighter1]

Well the seal isnt coming out, except for a few peices ive managed to mangle off of it while trying to get it out. Its almost seized in there. Should i take off the back of the transfer case in order to have better access to it? Its hard to work half way propped up on the ground. Whats involved in taking the rear part of the tcase off, any bearings or gears that will come out or just the 4 bolts and rtv?

 

[bikerted86]

It should just be the 4 bolts holding it on, but I think it would actually be harder to remove the seal since the cover will dance around while you hitting it. If you have a sharp chisel you cut the steel part of the seal, That steel part is the only think holding it in since it is a press fit. If you gouge the aluminum you can put some RTV on it, I prefer ultra grey.

 

[Gunfighter1]

I tried to get part of it out with a chisel and still cant get the outer rim. I was afraid of messing up the case to bad or scratching that bearing inside. Its stuck in there good. Its hard to work around the tailshaft so i figured if it was out of the way it might make life a little easier. Is there a gasket between the tail sahft and tcase or can i just use RTV. Thanks again for all your guys input.

 

[bikerted86]

I would say pull it then, there is a gasket but I would make sure both surfaces are clean and use RTV. I personally prefer RTV over alot of different gaskers.

 

[ralbelt]

A few methods I have used on different application over the years is to drill 3 holes around the perimiter of the seal and use a slide hammer with a sheet metal screw on the end to pull out.

Another is to try to insert a small pocket screw driver, or ice pick, between the case and seal to create a space so that you can insert a larger tool to flip it out.