M1009 turns but no start

[jimm1009]

They are more than likely stuck in the pre-chamber rather than being down in the cylinder so that make is a little easier.
When i have one that is swollen I spray it with WD 40 and the grab it with vise grips and gently pull and turn and spray. Some times it takes a while like this but turning them with some lubrication can make a ll the difference in the world.
jimm1009

 

[CROM]

What exactly do I have to remove to get at the pre-chamber? I keep seeing 'removed the injector' referenced here and am digging through the TM's, but haven't found a clear answer, yet.

 

[jimm1009]

The pre-chamber can only be removed when the head is removed from the engine.
I have heard of people taking the nozzle out and blowing air into the head through the small hole for the glow plug and the broken parts usually come out the hole for the nozzle.
I have never had t do that but it is certainly an easy enough task that may work for you too.

jimm1009

Edit: In TM9-2320-289-34P on paper page 1-2 in figure #2 they show a drawing of the head removed with orientation to the block and the prechamber orientation to the head.
In TM9-2320-289-34 they show the head removed and upside down on paper page 3-23. This is for inspection of the prechamber for cracks whcih is not what you are doing but it give you an idea on where the prechamber is located in the head. There are of course 8 prechambers per engine or 1 per cylinder.

 

[CROM]

Alright, busted tips removed and truck is back togather. I have removed the resistor on the firewall and plan on converting to the 12v glow plug system. To do this, I need to buy a different gp relay, right? I've heard mention of the ford relays?

 

[CROM]

Ok, two things are going on right now.

1. My relay is not cycling/clicking.
2. I am only getting 10v out of the bottom of the relay when the 'wait' light is on and the truck is in'run'

The obvious thing to me is that the relay is bad. Am I correct? I have a new set of AC 60G glow plugs in, and have read in previous threads that the no clicking/cycling issue is common. I don't want to ruin anything else (especially new gp's) so should I replace the resistor before going any further?

 

[CROM]

Well, I got the truck started. I figured since I had had the injectors out, I should re-bleed the fuel system. After the bleed, with the pedal to the floor, it fired, died then fired and stayed alive.

I am cautiously optomistic, though, as my glow plugs are only getting 10vdc. Still thinking it is bad....

I think the truck fired up because It's been in my semi-warm garage and the block heater plugged in.

 

[doghead]

Measure the voltage at input side of the relay, and on the output side. If it is not the same after the relay has closed(for a few seconds), then your relay is not making 100% connection. Replace it, if thats the case.

 

[doghead]

Do you have 24 or 12 volts supplied to the relay?

What is/was your front battery voltage, if it is resupplied with 12v?

 

[CROM]

I'm getting 12.48v into the top of the relay from the 12v bus next to it on the firewall. The front battery reads about 12.56v. When the truck is in run and the wait light is on, I get 10.2v out of the bottom post of the relay.

Looks like my relay is bad. Since I've bypassed the resistor and have the gp system set up with 12 volts, does it matter what relay I replace it with? I have heard of the Ford relays being used here with success. From what I understand, this relay has an isolated ground so the gp module and work with it. Would I need to disconnect the gp module under the dash if I use a different relay?

 

[doghead]

The glow plug relay does need to have an isolated ground (no continuity between any of the 4 terminals, to ground(it's mount))to work with a stock glow plug controller card and wiring. two numbers off the top of my head are GP109 or St85 relays.

"ford" relays are not compatible with the stock system. So, yes, you would need to eliminate/disconnect the stock controller wires and use your own wiring and button. If you simply replace the relay with the correct relay, you do not need to change any wires and if you wanted a back up push button, it is still possible and simple to do.

I personally would not use a "ford" relay .

 

[CROM]

I think I'll just bite the $75 and replace it with the proper relay. At least with the 12v mod I won't eat glow plugs as fast.

Thanks for the advice! Having a backup push button is a good idea. I've read several posts on how to wire it, but never thought of having one as a backup.

It'll sleep in the garage tonight with the heater plugged in. I need it to cart the Iowa State Record Whitetail home tomorrow. I'll swap relays in the PM.

Thanks for the help!

 

[doghead]

Have a meter with you, and test/confirm your new relay. Do not trust the counter sales person or trust that it is the correct part in the correct box. Test it. Others have been burned(no pun intended) when buying the correct relay. Just check it!

 

[CROM]

Trust, but verify! It's our QA's motto!

Thanks again!

 

[Abbylind]

I ran a lead from the 12 volt battery to the relay (where the old lead came from the ballast resistor) Used the old relay. Its been working for 9 years that way.
Good luck
Fowler

 

[CROM]

Truck has been starting better than it ever has all day long today. I'm letting it sit outside tonight to get cold and see how it fires in the morning. Still plan on swapping that resistor.

 

[sandcobra164]

Thanks DH for pointing out the 12V conversion for the GP's in your previous post. I have gotten lost in looking for the correct picture to make it clear in my mind. I'll be putting new AC60G's in my truck soon and would like to make at least 7 of them last should number 8 decide to burn out. I checked mine tonight, none are showing resistance, 24V is coming out of the bottom of the relay. Probably have some really swollen ones but I'll try to get it running and "guide them out" with vice grips. How bad would one swell with 24 volts applied? I may have to pull some injectors during the process.

 

[doghead]

Hard to guess on the swelling, hopefully they just blew fast.

 

[CROM]

Update: I Let the truck sit out last night without the block heater plugged in. It got down to about 25 degrees. Two cycles of the gp's this morning and it fired up like mid summer!

 

[doghead]

That's great!

Don't forget to hold the pedal down some while cranking. It helps set the high idle solenoid and seems to make them start easier cold.