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M1009 Valve Cover Recommendations

jplace1011

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Does any one have any recommendations for New Valve Covers for my M1009? I’m going to switch the old ones out while doing some repairs. I want to get the right ones the first time! Thank you in advance.



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Mullaney

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Does any one have any recommendations for New Valve Covers for my M1009? I’m going to switch the old ones out while doing some repairs. I want to get the right ones the first time! Thank you in advance.



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The KEY is throwing out the cork gaskets that generally are used and CLEAN (really well) the head and use flexible gasket maker (something similar to RTV) ro seal the covers to the heads.

Problem is that the gasket material - rubber or cork - eventually need to be compressed more and the valve covers get "dimpled" at the bolt holes. That causes a leak that you just can't stop...
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
.
The KEY is throwing out the cork gaskets that generally are used and CLEAN (really well) the head and use flexible gasket maker (something similar to RTV) ro seal the covers to the heads.

Problem is that the gasket material - rubber or cork - eventually need to be compressed more and the valve covers get "dimpled" at the bolt holes. That causes a leak that you just can't stop...
@Mullaney the valve covers have been changed out 3 times. Ridiculous I know! The first two mechanics used RTD and the last one used Cork Gaskets. This next try will be with both. The mechanic I found is 65, he’s been working on Diesel Engines since High School. I have a good feeling he may actually know what he’s doing.
I’ve heard about dimpling, this mechanic said that often the covers can get over tightened and then become warped. I’m assuming this is why he told me to get New Valve Covers. I just don’t know which ones to get, I want to get it right the first time.


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adf5565

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Costs more than the valve covers but helps with even pressure when tightening
 

Mullaney

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@Mullaney the valve covers have been changed out 3 times. Ridiculous I know! The first two mechanics used RTD and the last one used Cork Gaskets. This next try will be with both. The mechanic I found is 65, he’s been working on Diesel Engines since High School. I have a good feeling he may actually know what he’s doing.
I’ve heard about dimpling, this mechanic said that often the covers can get over tightened and then become warped. I’m assuming this is why he told me to get New Valve Covers. I just don’t know which ones to get, I want to get it right the first time.


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Yes Sir. That is definitely the problem and no gasket is the solution.
Sounds like you have the right guy willing to solve your problem.

I am almost sure that Left Side GM Part# 12564565 and Right side – GM Part# 12564564 are what you need.

The picture you attached in your initial post appears right to me. @cucvrus will correctly give you the part numbers. Heck, he may even have a set for sale.
 

Barrman

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I like “Right Stuff” for the valve covers. Once everything is super clean, the dimples have been inverted with a ball peen hammer and I feel patient. I will lay a thick bead of that aresol pushed stuff, let it sit 10-15 minutes, set the valve cover down and just start the screws. Then after another 10 minutes or so I will use a socket extension to tighten the screws very gently And not tight at all. Then I will walk away for a few hours or over night to finally torque the screws to spec with the goop nicely adhered to both sides and dry.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
I like “Right Stuff” for the valve covers. Once everything is super clean, the dimples have been inverted with a ball peen hammer and I feel patient. I will lay a thick bead of that aresol pushed stuff, let it sit 10-15 minutes, set the valve cover down and just start the screws. Then after another 10 minutes or so I will use a socket extension to tighten the screws very gently And not tight at all. Then I will walk away for a few hours or over night to finally torque the screws to spec with the goop nicely adhered to both sides and dry.
I am unclear what all the ball peen-ing is/means. Can someone please explain. I’m still learning.


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cucvrus

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I am unclear what all the ball peen-ing is/means. Can someone please explain. I’m still learning.


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Basically, straightening bout any divots, dents, stretched areas on the tin valve covers that may be misshapen from use and being overtightened.
I use a body hammer and a straight edge to peen the covers back in shape.

On another note, I use the Fel Pro valve cover gaskets and the Right Stuff. I have had great success with this method. Same as the oil pan. Gasket and the Right Stuff. I think I use gaskets on everything and just use enough of the Right Stuff to assist in filling and sealing any voids the gasket may miss. Double the sealing. Always clean the surfaces spotless dry and clean or you are just wasting your time. And More Right Stuff is NEVER better. That Right Stuff can make a mess. The RTV sealer is the worst. Good Luck and Be Safe.
 

Barrman

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Giddings, Texas
A ball peen hammer has the just slightly rounded side and the smaller almost pointy side on the hammer head. If you put the valve cover, oil pan, transmission pan, etc…. Upside down on a wooden surface so the edge with the bolt holes is flat against the wood. Put the pointy end of the ball Peen hammer in a bolt hole and hit the other side of the hammer with another hammer. This will at least flatten the bolt hole out and if you want actually bend it the other way.

Hit it softly the first time to get a feel for how much force is needed. It won’t be much.
 

87cr250r

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If you use RTV only the straightness of the valve cover doesn't matter so much. Don't fall for the high temp advertising and whatnot. Silicone can be very permeable and will seep oil normally. The Right stuff black doesn't seep as badly as the classic red and blue RTVs.

There is a new differential cover formula that has very low permeability. It's $$$, though.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
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63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
If you use RTV only the straightness of the valve cover doesn't matter so much. Don't fall for the high temp advertising and whatnot. Silicone can be very permeable and will seep oil normally. The Right stuff black doesn't seep as badly as the classic red and blue RTVs.

There is a new differential cover formula that has very low permeability. It's $$$, though.
@cucvrus The expert has spoken in! What gaskets do you use with the gasket maker, Fel-Pro Cork? As far as I can tell, there is only cork. I may be wrong.


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jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA

Costs more than the valve covers but helps with even pressure when tightening
@adf5565 this looks very interesting. Have you tried this kit before?


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87cr250r

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Why use 1 minute? It's going to take you a few hours to assemble. You don't need or want a fast cure time. Also, you want black. The gray is for machined surfaces, the black is for stamped.

 
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cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
@cucvrus what do you think about these?

I think it is a lot of money for 2 stamped tin pieces. There is nothing special about a valve cover. If they no holes in them and are 6.2 valve covers, they are good to go. Used or new makes no difference. That is a lot of coin for 2 pieces of tin. Remember Murphy's Law. Leak proof seals will. Have a Great Day.
 

adf5565

Well-known member
375
688
93
Location
Tioga, PA
@adf5565 this looks very interesting. Have you tried this kit before?


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Yeah they're on my motor now. Which only ran for 5 minutes before having issues (unrelated to the valve covers) but for those 5 minutes this product worked well :LOL:

So honestly I can't give a good review one way or another. As others have mentioned if you use RTV and follow the steps outlined you shouldn't need it.
 
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