M1009 was running fine; suddently shut off; No start

[carter262]

1984 M1009
102000 miles
Temp. today around 80

Truck has been running fine. Drove over to a friends house shut the truck down. When I went to leave, started up as normal, pulled forward, stopped put it in reverse, the truck shut off. It would not restart. Turns over, but will not start up.

Checked:
Opened fuel bleeder valve; sprays fuel out.
Pulled fuel filter; did not appear clogged; fuel coming out looked normal.
Found small fusible link that goes to the bottom on the glow plug relay (large post) that was broken. replaced it.
Checked all the fuses
Checked wires going to the top of the IP. Appeared to have good connections

So does this sound like an IP problem? That is where I'm leaning. I have been reading on here. I checked the Technical Manual but not start sent me to starter. I didn't see anything about checking the IP.

When I go back in the morning I will need some ideas. I will not have access to a computer but will be able to take the technical manuals.

I know others have posted similar problems and I am still reading but I need some help. I have exactly one day to fix due to daughters wedding then I'm leaving town for a week, then work. This is my daily and only driver and I don't have a diesel mechanic in my area, Greensboro NC, that I fully trust due to it being a military vehicle.

Also if it turns out to be the IP I need have seen suggestions of places to order one, but mixed reviews.
examples:
Diesel Care and Preformance in TN,
http://www.dcpcart.com/OScart/product_info.php/1982-fuel-injection-pump-62l-diesels-heavy-duty-p-122

What is your option and suggestion. I know if I have to replace it I will not be able to fix it tomorrow, but if I can confirm it is the problem then at least I can order it and have it waiting for when I get home.



Thanks.

 

[NovacaineFix]

Have you checked the glow plugs/glow plug card/ ballast resistors (if they are still there)?

Operational lifespan of the IP is typically about 100K but that is just a textbook estimate, not written in stone.
Even though it was 80°, your glow plugs still cycle, just not as long as when it is like 40°, so it sounds like you checked everything but them.
If you still have the ballasts in tact, check to see if you are getting 24 volts on the input side (passenger side) and 12 volts out on the drivers side. Is the glow plug relay clicking? Do you get a "Wait" light on your dash?

It could be an IP but I would think that unless it had a catastrophic failure it wouldn't fail just like that, usually it gets progressively worse as it gets sloppy and leaks and falls out of adjustment. Think of it as a distributor for a gas engine, the spark is fuel and the rotation is the rotor spinning around to each cylinder. If your distributor turns and has spark, then the problem probably isn't the distributor.

Good Luck!

 

[cucvrus]

My injection pump died on the spot on Crown of Thorns M1009 during the 40" snow storm in January. I never thought it would die at once but it did. I changed the injection pump with a fresh rebuilt one. I bled the system and it fired right up. It was a blessing that it died. I had cold start trouble with it like it dropped fuel, I had advance trouble with it and it would start start and shut off. The throttle shaft seals did not leak and the fuel system lines and all were new front to back. It was a brand new injection pump that I got from a friend. It was for a HMMWV and I changed the top cover and installed it. It lasted from April 2015 till January 2016. It was new in the box. I think the seals dry out and fail in the box. Thus the shelf life. And that is why he said they scrapped them. I am a believer now. I send my pumps out and have them freshly rebuilt as always. I thought oh free. Free is not always good. But it did give me the opportunity to do more fun stuff. And to think all these trouble started from using the wrong motor mounts on my CUCV. I could still be running the pump that was on the truck in the first place. But i ruined that trying to take the top cover off. 2 of the screws broke off flush with the pump. 10 minutes later I found the small cut on the fuel line leading to the fuel pump. Have a great day and Holiday weekend. I hope to get lots of work done as I have the next 10 days off to play with my toys and visit family and friends. And the wood pile needs stacked. Volunteers. I can wrench on your CUCV while you stack wood. Sounds fair.

 

[NovacaineFix]

Good to know, CUCVRUS always has good info.

I know anything mechanical can just die at any moment, but usually there is a good reason for it. I would say before just replacing the IP, rule everything that you can, you don't want to replace things and maybe contribute to the problem without knowing the real issue at hand.

If you think you ruled everything else out or believe that all is working except the IP, then best of luck and go for it.

 

[carter262]

Thank for the help.

I pulled the top of the IP off today. Checked the solenoid and it operated properly. Checked the reading on the pink wire and it was around 11.

Got it to start twice, ran for around 5 seconds, and died.

Still at a lose. Unfortunately I had to take it to the shop. I just don't have the time with everything going on. I hope it works out. I need an old military mechanic near by that knows what he is doing.

I will post what the problem turned out to be.

 

[cucvrus]

"Do or Do Not, there is no try" ~ Yoda

Great to live by this. I always say I don't try anything I just do it. Wanna try me. Learned it from an old Rob Zombie album Thunder kiss 65.

 

[carter262]

Problem Solved:

Well it turned out to be the lift pump. The motor mounts were wore out putting pressure on the lift pump which caused it to fail. SO new motor mounts and a new lift pump and vroom fired right up.

 

[Barrman]

That is a new one, motor mounts pinching off lift pump supply. Thanks for sharing and glad you got it running.

 

[cucvrus]

11-16-2015, 07:52 #13
Warthog

Moderator Join DateMar 2008LocationOKC, OKPosts13,764Feedback Score9 (100%)

[h=2]

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Cucvrus is correct. The motor mounts are known to wear out on the passenger side and allowing that side of the engine to drop. The fuel line will rub on the cross member causing the hole.​

 

[cucvrus]

Brogman
11-15-2015, 19:33

It was the fuel Pump. Did this all from under the truck. The tools to use are a standard sized 3/8 ratchet with a deep barrel 11 mm socket for the pump bolts and a 1/4 inch ratchet with a metric socket to get the plate off to get to the push rod. I did put the push rod in the freezer and used a lot of grease. Had to bend the fitting on the pump that the rubber hose goes to up so it would clear the cross member so I could get the hose and clamp on. Truck runs great now as it did before. Thanks everyone for trying to help

cucvrus
11-16-2015, 05:18

OK that this as a word of advise. If you needed to bend the fitting on the fuel pump to get the hose on. That vehicle needs motor mounts or Energy Suspension motor mount inserts. Take my word for it. You can probably see where the fuel line was laying on the frame and it made a mark in the paint. Change the motor mounts. If the motor flexes it will cut the fuel line. It will wear a small hole in it and suck air. I learned this last April while wheeling at Rausch Creek. I changed the motor mounts before I went and the night before the truck shut off while idling in the parking lot. it seemed strange but I ignored it. The next day the trouble got worse and worse. I have used the Energy Suspension Autozone part number 353700. 3.116G is the Energy Suspension part number. Get 2 short 5/16" bolts and nuts. It beats the wire ties they give you to use to install the inserts. They work but the short bolts are 99% easier and better. Good Luck. Do as you wish. I just put a pair in a plow truck last week. The Jersey Indian. Thanks for looking. Digger09 them motor mounts still working in the plow truck?