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M1009 Will Not Start

Brogman

Member
102
3
18
Location
Noblesville, Indiana
This truck is driving me Crazy. As soon as I fix one thing it's something else. It has always started well. I did a 12 volt conversion and had some electrical problems that I fixed with help here. The new starter turns it over better than the old one. It was a little hard starting in that it would fire up and die. Then I would catch it by pushing down on the accelerator and it would speed up and run. It ran well after I got it running including the cold idle would idle down after the engine warmed up. The next few starts were ok. New AC60g glow plugs. All the plugs are pulling over 11 volts on start cycle. I checked the power to the three wires on the IP all have 12 volts. It turns over tries to start for a fraction of a second then just turns over. Could the fuel pump have taken a dump?
 

Brogman

Member
102
3
18
Location
Noblesville, Indiana
Thanks CUCVLover. Yes stock fuel filter. I don't know how to do the above checks but I guess I will have to learn how. Plan on putting on a screw on filter just have been fixing other things that needed to be fixed. Have the WIX parts and connectors have to make a bracket and get some new fuel line.
 
478
12
18
Location
Tucson AZ
Basically, since your turning over successfully and your glow plugs are working, you need to verify that you're getting fuel to the injectors. I'd start at the filter because it's easy, then based on weather or not there is fuel pressure present, work your way backwards or forwards from there.
 

Al Harvey

Active member
1,152
19
38
Location
Dover, TN
Look under your intake manifold and see if there is fluid in the valley. Sounds like the injector pump might be leaking. Once you get the air out it's fine, but after sitting it builds up more air. My 1009 did that and it got worse til I got the IP rebuilt.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I have had the bots frozen into the fuel pump and had to brake the fuel pump to get the bolt out so the ear of the fuel pump could spin. And it will help you to disconnect the batteries and remove the passengers side alternator and lower bracket. It will give you a little room and the time is an easy exchange for the room. Just set the alternator aside. You can leave the wiring intact. You will need to remove the cover plate also. I am trying to give you some help. Not tell you what to do.
 

Brogman

Member
102
3
18
Location
Noblesville, Indiana
It was the fuel Pump. Did this all from under the truck. The tools to use are a standard sized 3/8 ratchet with a deep barrel 11 mm socket for the pump bolts and a 1/4 inch ratchet with a metric socket to get the plate off to get to the push rod. I did put the push rod in the freezer and used a lot of grease. Had to bend the fitting on the pump that the rubber hose goes to up so it would clear the cross member so I could get the hose and clamp on. Truck runs great now as it did before. Thanks everyone for trying to help
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
OK that this as a word of advise. If you needed to bend the fitting on the fuel pump to get the hose on. That vehicle needs motor mounts or Energy Suspension motor mount inserts. Take my word for it. You can probably see where the fuel line was laying on the frame and it made a mark in the paint. Change the motor mounts. If the motor flexes it will cut the fuel line. It will wear a small hole in it and suck air. I learned this last April while wheeling at Rausch Creek. I changed the motor mounts before I went and the night before the truck shut off while idling in the parking lot. it seemed strange but I ignored it. The next day the trouble got worse and worse. I have used the Energy Suspension Autozone part number 353700. 3.116G is the Energy Suspension part number. Get 2 short 5/16" bolts and nuts. It beats the wire ties they give you to use to install the inserts. They work but the short bolts are 99% easier and better. Good Luck. Do as you wish. I just put a pair in a plow truck last week. The Jersey Indian. Thanks for looking.
 
Last edited:

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
Cucvrus is correct. The motor mounts are known to wear out on the passenger side and allowing that side of the engine to drop. The fuel line will rub on the cross member causing the hole.
 

Brogman

Member
102
3
18
Location
Noblesville, Indiana
That makes good since. I planned to replace the mounts guess I will move the replacement up on the list. I wondered what was wrong. Thank you for telling me. Are new stock motor mounts the way to go or energy suspension?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Just get 2 5/16" short bolts and nuts. So you can put the clam shell from your current motor mount back together after you drill the rivets out of it. Follow the instructions and pay attention to the proper way the mounts go in the clam shells. Don't put them in upside down or backwards. Do one side at a time. Use a piece of wood and a bottle jack and jack up the motor from the corner of the oil pan and the flywheel cover with a bottle jack. It will fall out when you remove the bolts and have it high enough. A helper is nice to hold the 9/16" wrench on the top side bolts. Easy to do should take about an hour with a good reliable helper. Good Luck. You are to far away or I would invite you over and help you out.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Hey may I add get the rear mounts for the transmission transfer case while you are at it. it makes a big difference. use the energy suspension mounts back there also. Just a suggestion. Do or do not. There is no try. Just do it right the first time and do it well. Clean and paint as you go.
 

Brogman

Member
102
3
18
Location
Noblesville, Indiana
Already have the energy suspension mounts on the trany. Rebuilt the trany and put the new ones in. Thanks though. I won't bend anything jacking the oil pan? Are the 5/16 bolts to use instead of the wire ties?
 
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