m1009 with no lights, or horn. everything else works

[bigkevatbagram]

im a civilian mechanic working in afghanistan and i have a strange one here... i have an m1009 with no lights whatsoever, or horn, but everything else works. dash lights ok, starts and runs fine, ect.... i thought since the only thing that was a common link with these circuits was the toggle light switch to the left of the headlight switch, but its not the problem. i installed a known good switch from another vehicle and had no change. when i energize each circuit at the connector to the toggle, the lights work, so i know its running through the headlight switch normally. i also disconnected the blackout toggle in case it was shorted and over riding the light toggle, but no change. i have a wiring diagram here for every circuit but i can't find any common links between the lights and horn other than that toggle switch. any ideas from you old school guys? even my lead mechanic who grew up on these vehicles is stumped. thanks for your help, kevin

 

[mangus580]

Kevin... everything you speak about is on the same fuse. That fuse socket is known for being loose and corroded. I would check that out for sure.

Also... I am sure you know... That the toggle switch has a lock on it. You must pull it out to put it in the top position.

 

[bigkevatbagram]

all fuses are good... getting voltage to both sides... and yes, i know the toggle is a locking one, unlike the black out toggle which is unavailable new btw...just like the stock mirrors. i got the bumper blackouts working last night, but then they were off again with everything in the same position..i think i have a bad wire somewhere...ill keep digging...thanks, kev ps...nice truck in your pic. know any surplus sites which one can find m1009s and 1010s for sale?

 

[bigkevatbagram]

i also have a voltage drop at the center + orange wire on the toggle switch. instead of batt. voltage, its at 9v, then when i flip it up, it drops to 3.5v..as does the pink wire for the black out circuit on the same connector. also, the black out lights on the bumbers came on again while i was looking at them. then went off again when i flipped the switch off and on .... some ghost eh? im thinking of throwing a dash harness in it.. any thoughts now? kev

 

[mangus580]

Sounds to me like you have a bad connection someplace. The fuse socket for the headlights has been known to have issues. They carry alot of amperage through the one fuse, and it sometimes melts off the metal prong. You might want to look and make sure its getting good connection there. I know of at least one that had to be hot-glue'd in...

 

[wvm1008]

i've recently purchased a 86 m1008, and its doing almost the same thing. the ?'s i have are
1- where is the light fuse (my fuse panel words are rubbed off or smudged)
2- where can i find a diagram for the fuse panel (what amps belong where)

i have no voltage at the headlight switch, i've ran a jumper wire to to plug, the head lights and parking lights do come on. i've dropped the fuse box and cant find anything that looks like its been hot (melted plastic-discolored terminals-overheated wires).

if anyone has any suggestions,

thanks
dustin

 

[CCATLETT1984]

go to this post, its the tech manuals for the cucv's.
http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index....&t=15514&sid=40f0d2ea51a789611b6fe0c6c8116f8b
Its still on the old version of the site (we just switched last week) so not everything has been moved over yet.

 

[wvm1008]

tried the link, clicked on the wiring diagram, and it directed me to the new sites home page.

which fuse is the light fuse?

thanks

 

[mangus580]

i've recently purchased a 86 m1008, and its doing almost the same thing. the ?'s i have are
1- where is the light fuse (my fuse panel words are rubbed off or smudged)
2- where can i find a diagram for the fuse panel (what amps belong where)

i have no voltage at the headlight switch, i've ran a jumper wire to to plug, the head lights and parking lights do come on. i've dropped the fuse box and cant find anything that looks like its been hot (melted plastic-discolored terminals-overheated wires).

if anyone has any suggestions,

thanks
dustin

Are you sure you have the black out switches set right? The right-hand switch needs to be in the full up position. To get it there, you need to pull out on the handle to 'unlock' it.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

tried the link, clicked on the wiring diagram, and it directed me to the new sites home page.

which fuse is the light fuse?

thanks

Here is a direct link
http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&type=file&func=get&tid=1&fid=file&pid=10

 

[grayw0lf]

What turned out to be the problem / fix???

I'm having the EXACT same problem!

 

[edgebar]

old thread i know, but same issue...
the left clip on the headlamp fuse on the fuse panel is melted off and i cannot get the fuse in.
can i take the fuse panel out, or is that a night mare?
any help?
thanks

 

[antennaclimber]

My M1009 had the same failure.
It was repaired by the previous owner by removing the red wire from the rear of the fuse contact that melted.
The wire was then pushed through the hole that the left side of the fuse contact was in.
One end of an inline fuse holder was spliced to the red wire and a blade terminal was installed on the other end.
The blade terminal was then inserted to the right side contact of the where the headlight fuse shopuld be. In other words, the one that didn't melt.

This above repair finally failed about two weeks ago. No headlights, no turn signals and no heater.

I found that the blade terminal had become dirty and burnt from not being able to handle the current demands of the circuit. Now the right side contact of the headlight fuse holder was bad.

I removed the undersized fuse holder and installed a better one.

I then cut a small portion away on the outer edge of the fuse box next to the right side of the headlight fuse. There I found the metal contact that feeds several of the fuses. There was a small hole in the metal contact that seemed to be threaded for a 4-40 machine screw. I crimped a small ring terminal on the protected side of the new inline fuse holder and connected it to the hole in metal contact with a 4-40 screw. So far this repair has not failed.

You have to remove the fuse box from the firewall to repair the failure. Take your time and have a lots of light.
Additionally, make sure your batteries are disconnected prior to attempting the repair.
Karl

 

[edgebar]

antennaclimber
thanks, thought of doing something similar, just wanted to be sure about what i was getting into beforehand. i will try this....slowly. yea, and disconnect batts
thanks

 

[mwattle]

I see that the left prong on mine is also melted. Is there an easier way? Can it be bypassed with a wire coming directly from another power source and add a fuse in between.

I pulled my fuse box off the firewall a little while back and tightened things up. It worked for a little bit. I was driving home this 4th of July a week ago at midnight and baM! NO lights. Luckily I have off-road lights that are on a separate circuit. Drove 30 miles home blinding the **** out of people. I apologized as I passed.

 

[cucvrus]

Yes you can separate the fuse box and bulk head wiring as you mentioned and add an in line fuse. You may need to add 2 and eliminate that leg in the fuse box. But it works and is an easy fix to this problem. It can get very deep doing it other ways. I have changed out entire wiring harnesses in the past but that was when I bought a few new entire harnesses for $20.. OEM GM ones at that. It seems that the other fix is to replace the connections for the fuse. Have NOT done that one lately but it is fairly easy with a donor fuse box from any same vintage GM car or truck. Working with the fuse box under the hood is about the hardest part. That laying on the floor is a PITA. Share your results. Good Luck have a great day.

 

[Tinstar]

Yes you can separate the fuse box and bulk head wiring as you mentioned and add an in line fuse. You may need to add 2 and eliminate that leg in the fuse box. But it works and is an easy fix to this problem. It can get very deep doing it other ways. I have changed out entire wiring harnesses in the past but that was when I bought a few new entire harnesses for $20.. OEM GM ones at that. It seems that the other fix is to replace the connections for the fuse. Have NOT done that one lately but it is fairly easy with a donor fuse box from any same vintage GM car or truck. Working with the fuse box under the hood is about the hardest part. That laying on the floor is a PITA. Share your results. Good Luck have a great day.

Do The LED headlights solve this issue because of the much lower amp draw?
That alone would be worth the higher cost of the lights.

 

[cucvrus]

I have LED's in everyone of my CUCV's at I think $350. they are the best plug and play upgrade I ever made. they are 100% the silver bullet in the light circuit. And changing all the 1157,1156,194 bulbs to LED seems to make a world of difference. I use 194 in the cluster. I have thousands of them from the salvage yards and YOUPULLITS I frequent. I get lots of free parts with my frequent shopper points.