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M1009 wont start, different than the others, I think

magicman

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Noblesville, IN
Was out starting the beast and it was cranking fine, almost turned over but had been cranking it twice for about 8ish seconds didnt want to burn the starter out so I stopped. Turned the key off then back on to let glow plugs glow again, wait light turned off went to turn key and just one loud click and no crank. Backed the key off one notch then turned it and tried again one big click and no crank. Checked voltage on batteries just fine, and not had any problems leading up to it. Like I said I was cranking just fine prior to it stopping. Any suggestions or threads to read? I searched through a few and didnt find any like mine where it was cranking just fine then second attempt to crank NOTHING.
My father had a similar experience at a gas station with his m1009, shut it off to go eat or somethng went to try and start it just one big click and no crank. Someone picked him up and later that day went to tow it but tried one more time and it started just fine never had an issuse sense.
Mine has been sitting only an hour but still want to figure out whats going on.

Thanks in advance for anyone willing to read all of that and help out...YOU GUYS ROCK!
 

TGP (IL)

Active member
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28
Location
Metro East IL
Put a 15/16 deep socket and long ratchet on the front crankshaft balancer bolt.
Turn clockwise and see if you hear a clunk then rotate?
If that's what it does then try and restart it.
Sometime the starter bendix will stick in the flywheel.

This is assuming your Batteries are up to the task.
Tom
 

magicman

New member
12
0
0
Location
Noblesville, IN
Put a 15/16 deep socket and long ratchet on the front crankshaft balancer bolt.
Turn clockwise and see if you hear a clunk then rotate?
If that's what it does then try and restart it.
Sometime the starter bendix will stick in the flywheel.

This is assuming your Batteries are up to the task.
Tom
That fixed the no crank problem thank you. Now its a little slow and low sounding on the crank so I am charging up my batteries lol
 

Indyharleyguy

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Carmel IN
I actually had something exactly like this happen to me once. I drove mine and then turned it off for maybe 2 minutes. Tried to start it and nothing just click click click. Left it there and came back about 8 hours later and it started just fine. My lesson was don't stop it and start it up again. It's never happened since

Oh by the way Magicman is my son. We both have a M1009. Ask him about the difference in 4 wheel high and 4 wheel low sometime. He'll never make the mistake of driving off road in 4 wheel drive high when he should of been in 4 wheel drive low again LOL:tank:
 

tim292stro

Well-known member
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48
Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
Have you load-tested the batteries? Just checking voltage doesn't cut it unfortunately - they can show a good voltage at rest and be well below 6V each (12V total) while cranking. only way to know without a load test is to leave the DMM/multi-meter hooked up to the batteries while you crank and look at the number while you hold the key in the start position.

Another thing that can happen to the older starters especially (the 27MT, not the gear reduction 28MT) is they get hot sitting right next to an exhaust manifold and the case swells seizing the bendix (solenoid can't push it out, no click is heard). Putting a heat shield in between the passenger side exhaust and the starter is a good idea.

Are you using a 24V or 12V starting system?
 

charlietango

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Winnipeg
From what you're describing is a sticking bendix or bad solenoid. Probably a slowly dying starter if I were to be a betting man. They have a life span. The trick with the wrench, or giving it a smack will usually let the bendix go. Mine was sticking the opposite way where it wouldn't engage the flywheel but spin loose in the housing. If it's not the starter you could have a missing gear on the flywheel causing a stoppage. They aren't cheap to replace, and if you do MAKE SURE you replace the front bracket! (or you'll have other issues, trust me....)
 

magicman

New member
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Location
Noblesville, IN
It is a 24 volt system still, I am going to take the battries in for a load test and also test the generators if they can also. It has not giving me a problem before starting it up, hope its not a dying starter cause the ones I was looking at weren't cheap :neutral:

And no dont ask about me getting stuck it wasnt funny. ..thanks dad :roll: lol
 
Last edited:

Hasdrubal

New member
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Location
Vancouver BC
If you have an original direct drive 27MT, get it rebuilt. Lots of problems with the Chinese starters for sale out there. I get 6 years between rebuilds on my daily driver. Commutator end bushing wears the most, allowing the armature shaft to droop, causing slower cranking. That's how I know when its time to pull it and rebuild.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
Was out starting the beast and it was cranking fine, almost turned over but had been cranking it twice for about 8ish seconds didnt want to burn the starter out so I stopped. Turned the key off then back on to let glow plugs glow again, wait light turned off went to turn key and just one loud click and no crank. Backed the key off one notch then turned it and tried again one big click and no crank. ...


My father had a similar experience at a gas station with his m1009, shut it off to go eat or somethng went to try and start it just one big click and no crank. Someone picked him up and later that day went to tow it but tried one more time and it started just fine never had an issuse sense.
Put a 15/16 deep socket and long ratchet on the front crankshaft balancer bolt.
Turn clockwise and see if you hear a clunk then rotate?
If that's what it does then try and restart it.
Sometime the starter bendix will stick in the flywheel.
That fixed the no crank problem thank you.
So there you go. Either the starter got stuck as described, or there's a dead spot on the armature. Either way, it's unpredictable. Like having some missing teeth on the ring gear, the engine has to happen to stop in just the right place for it to be a problem. You could go years without it being a problem again.

Or it could bite you tomorrow.


Oh, and good on your Dad for telling on you about the 4H. :mrgreen:
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,432
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Magic man for what it is worth. I have a local starter shop that will sell a US rebuilt 24 volt starter with a core for $159. + shipping. That is a direct drive PA built starter. $200. w/o a core. If you are interested PM me. I know you can buy China made ones cheaper. But these 2 Men built these in their shop and I have been using the same starters from them on over 100+ CUCV's in the past 20 + years with out any real issues. Wear out of course they do. But it is seldom that I see it repetitive on the same truck. I have sent a few to Germany and one to Italy for guys that needed them. But I was amazed of the details that go into checking and rebuilding a starter the proper way. Not just adding parts. It is a very precise procedure to assure quality. Good Luck. Do as you want I just thought if I could put that out there and help just one person it was worth mentioning. I am getting no $ for this and am not a paid spokes person. The local military base gets them to do a lot of HMMWV and CUCV starters.
 
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