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M1009 wont start

cjamison08

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Ok so I searched the forum and the TM, and still can't figure this out, I need help. Here's the story, I bought the m1009 and when I got it home, began looking it over, and it was all hacked up, the wiring was a mess ( lights wired to house wiring on a toggle switch) I rewired most of the truck, excluding the 24v system ( due to previous owner converting to 12v with appropriate starter) the truck also has a banks Turbo system on it, I broke a ball joint, so I tore it apart and fixed the ball joint and wheel bearing, and that's when the problems began. It started just fine, and was idling, then it just died like the key was shut off, I checked the fuel cut off on the IP and it has 12v and I can hear it clicking, it has fuel in the filter, and appears to be going to the IP, but nothing coming out the IP to the injectors. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Caleb
 
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Warthog

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Welcome Caleb.

On the top of the injector pump there is a rubber hose. Disconnect the hose and them remove the check valve that screws into the top of the pump.

Hold the valve up to a light and see what is inside. There should be a clear glass ball. If you see black flakes then your injector pump needs a rebuild.

The fuel system on most diesels require a return line for unused fuel. If the return line is plugged, the engines will stop running.

Without knowing how the truck is wired, you will be pretty much on your own with electrical issues and testing. We might be able to help some.
 

cjamison08

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Thanks warthog, I will check that here in a bit, the truck is currently at my dads, and since it was my daily driver, I gotta find a way up there, if the return is plugged, is there a way I can get it cleaned up enough to get the truck home?
 

Warthog

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If it is plugged, some guys will break the ball out. I don't recommend that as it is designed to keep the system primed and stop the back flow of fuel to the tank.

Sometimes you can clean it with carb cleaner.

The black specs are pieces of rubber the are coming from the rubber ring on the internal governor. They degrade with age. You can also remove the top cover of the pump and look for the specs.

I am not saying this is your issue but is one place to check.
 

cjamison08

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Ok, I will check it over, and let you know what I find, hopefully that's it. The trucks been down for a week, and unfurtunately the temperature here is In the teens, and it wont fit in my garage. Lol another quick question though, it has a 12v direct drive delving starter on it, and even with 2 fully charged, good batteries at 850 cca a piece, it cranks slowly, but will fire up, it that normal for the 12v starter, or is the starter just dieing? I know it has 12v at the starter, so I doesn't seem like a voltage drop problem. Sorry for all the questions but I've been turning a wrench for the past 10 years, and this is my first diesel, and the only one I've ever messed with.
 

Warthog

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With good batteries and a good starter, it should be cranking fast. Are you positive that the starter itself is 12v? At 24v starter will crank with only 12v supplied. Just not very well.

The 6.2L engine is a very basic diesel. If you understand gasser engines then you will get the 6.2L with a little studying.

The 6.2L is a high compression diesel and does need a fast crank to start easily. A slow crank does make it hard to start.

It may be time to rebuild the starter. Also check that the support bracket is installed on the starter. Broken starter bolts or a broken block can and will result.
 

cjamison08

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Yea, I double checked the delving numbers, to make sure, because I too thought it might be a 24v starter, so it sounds like time to convert it back to 24v I would rather have the factory wiring if I have to pull the starter, it will make later diagnosis with the TM's my h easier. Thank you for all the info.
 

cjamison08

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Well took it apart, including pulling the cap off the IP, nothing was clogged and the ball moved freely, along with all the linkages, and the bowl was full of fuel, but with an injector line cracked loose, it appears that there is still nothing coming out of the IP. Any idea's?
 

Hasdrubal

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When it happened to me it turned out to be a leaking fuel pressure sensor on the back of the fuel filter base. Check for any wetness at the bottom. Although in my case it didn't appear wet but still drew air into the fuel system overnight with the tank vacuum. You'll have to bleed the injectors to get it running.

I sourced a new OEM filter base that omits the pressure sensor as its not needed. In the mean time I cracked the fuel cap after every shutdown so it would start again in the morning. Forgot one night, so I drilled a tiny hole through the cap. Started every time.
 
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cjamison08

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Well no luck, its like the IP isn't doing anything, its got fuel in the bowl, but if I crack an injector line loose, like 3/4 turn to where the line can move a bit, its like a get a drizzle at best. Any other places to check?
 

Hasdrubal

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Is your IP solenoid functioning? You should hear it click when power is applied. You tried bleeding your injectors? It takes quite a few crank cycles to purge all the air from the lines.

I place a couple of pieces of cardboard along the inner fenders, it shows the fuel spray pattern well and there's no clean up later. Remove all the glow plugs, this allows the motor to spin over faster, there's no load on the starter and its less of a drain on the batteries. Crack all of the injector lines open at the injectors. Begin your cranking cycles, I usually do 10 seconds at a time with a cooling down period. Others here have stated that you can crank for far longer. You will begin to notice fuel being spit out onto the cardboard. That's not enough to tighten injector yet. Wait until you see a good spray pattern out of each injector before you tighten it up. There are a couple of injectors which will require more cranking than all the others before they are bled. Once all the injectors show a good solid fuel spray, tighten injectors, replace glow plugs and it should fire right up.
 

cjamison08

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Yea, the IP solenoid is working, I even checked it when I had the top off the IP, and everything seems to be moving fine, so I guess ill just keep trying to get the injectors to bleed, it just sucks because the starter draws so much amperage it kills off my batteries pretty quick. Like 2 or 3 times of 15 second cranking and they're dead, is then any good way to keep them up while trying to bleed? Like maybe hooking them to the alternator on my dads plow truck?
 

doghead

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If your not cranking fast enough, you won't get the right fuel output either.

If you can only get 45 seconds of crank time before batteries are dead, I think you have a starter or battery issue.
 

cjamison08

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Well after cleaning up all the wiring contact points, its cranking about as fast as a Gasser would, but the 12v starter draws so much amperage that it takes a pretty quick toll on my already crappy batteries, so I gotta find a way to keep enough charge to keep spinning it. The odd thing is untilled it cut out I never had a need for a quick starter spin, because it always fired right up on less than one complete revolution, including the last time, but the last time it died after a couple minutes, and since then, I haven't even had it act like it wants to run.
 

cjamison08

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Well good news guys, after sticking the optima off my dads tractor in the m1009, and lots more cranking, I discovered a fuel drip in the line from the filter to the IP, so I fixed it and tried again to bleed the injectors, after a few cranks, I got fuel, I hooked back tight, and a few more good cranks, and she fired right up. Thanks to everyone for the help, and for sharing their knowledge.
 
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