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M1010 for my daughter the field biologist

Another Ahab

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OK, for some reason when you type the number 8 with a parentheses mark right behind it, you get the goofy emoticon shown.

Gave it a shot once or twice, but couldn't figure out how to undo that. Oh, well. :shrugs:
 

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Boston, MA
So after a solid week of disassembly, grinding, wire brushing, scrubbing, bleaching, welding, lubricating, painting, and reassembly, the truck looks exactly the way it did when I started. The lights work properly, a few visible rust spots are gone, and much formerly hidden rust is gone. But other than that, there's absolutely no evidence that I did anything. I think my wife is starting to suspect I have a girlfriend or something...
 

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My passenger side ankle vent is missing the part that connects the vent door to the control handle. The door and handle are present and working, but the parts that connect them are missing. Are these parts available? Or do I need to buy a new door? The 30 TM doesn't show these parts...

Thanks,
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Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,994
4,545
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
So after a solid week of disassembly, grinding, wire brushing, scrubbing, bleaching, welding, lubricating, painting, and reassembly, the truck looks exactly the way it did when I started. The lights work properly, a few visible rust spots are gone, and much formerly hidden rust is gone. But other than that, there's absolutely no evidence that I did anything. I think my wife is starting to suspect I have a girlfriend or something...
But you don't so you're spotless:

- I say, keep her guessing

It could work out to your favor.

You know, a few less chores assigned, and maybe suggestions for some fun evenings together; that kind of thing.

Of course, alternately, it might push her to get herself a boyfriend; tough call. :naner:
 
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611
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Location
Boston, MA
2 visible signs of progress:

TinyTach replaces ash tray. Pouch for cell phone will go beneath tach. This preserves CUCV look when closed. I'm not sure what the final dashboard arrangement will be. I'm still thinking about comms and gauges and switches for things like doghead's GP Controller Bypass. This is a temporary solution that works for now.

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The 12V outlet ground was flaky. I disassembled, cleaned, lubed, reassembled, and now it's solid.

I routed the TinyTach sensor wire through the grommet formerly occupied by the power feed to the NBC rack. I put the sensor on the rearmost passenger side injector line, just below the power distribution blocks. That was the cleanest wire run available.


Boarding ladder is no longer rusty. I completely disassembled it, wire brushed it, then painted it with Rust Reformer and Bumper Paint. It won't win any car shows, but it's no longer rusting...
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Truck is now loaded with dorm stuff. Moving my son into college tomorrow. Highway driving with a tach should prove interesting...
 

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Location
Boston, MA
After about 4 hours driving with the tinytach, I found no surprises. The gearing appears 100% stock. The speedometer seems to indicate 3mph faster than the gearingXRPMXtireCircumference math predicts. Now that I've confirmed this, I no longer have much need of a tach.

I'll cross-check the speed with a GPS when I get a chance.

Windshield washer quit. Another minor system to trace through and debug... I'm learning!
 
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Member
611
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Location
Boston, MA
CUCV Hotfoot

After an hour on the interstate, the painted steel floor and transmission hump were so hot they were uncomfortable to touch. I don't know what the coolant temp was, but the idiot lights never came on indicating high temps. My wife had her iced tea bottle resting between the seat and the transmission hump, and the tea was quite hot when she went to drink it. Clearly, some kind of floor insulation is necessary...
 
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Recovry4x4

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I can confirm that the floor gets mighty hot. I've never felt the need to run a tach as I can calculate it pretty close mechanically. There was a contingent that claimed it was necessary to monitor converter slip. I concur that now that the data was confirmed, not much need for a tach.
 

tim292stro

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A high-temp wrap around the exhaust pipes will help - have the heat blow out the pipes, not radiated to the undercarriage.

A reflective insulation attached to the exterior side of the floor, a heavy foam pad on the inside will attenuate both heat and sound, then a heavy vinyl floor sheet will keep the foam from getting chewed up.
 
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Member
611
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Location
Boston, MA
I've never felt the need to run a tach as I can calculate it pretty close mechanically. There was a contingent that claimed it was necessary to monitor converter slip. I concur that now that the data was confirmed, not much need for a tach.
Agreed. I wasn't sure if POs had changed the gearing. This is my first MV/CUCV, so I couldn't tell for sure by the sound. TinyTach was a cheap and easy way to find out that they had not.

I also noticed that there seems to be no RPM limiter or governor. On a long, steep downhill stretch, I experimented with this and took it up to 3650 briefly. I expected a governor of some sort to kick in at 3600, but that didn't happen.
 

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Member
611
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Location
Boston, MA
Proper crankcase vacuum retains oil

On the 600 mile recovery drive from GA to PA, the M1010 used about 6 quarts of oil. I assumed it needed new seals. After reading threads on SS about how the 6.2 uses a slight vacuum in the crankcase to retain oil, we replaced the oil cap, CDR and vacuum lines, as recommended elsewhere on SS. In the 1,500 miles driven since, it used no oil at all. Happiness!
 

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Member
611
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Location
Boston, MA
Grinders

I was wondering about your grinder. I can't figure out the make (that shape and branding color is unfamiliar to me). Do you know what make of grinder you have?
Bosch. Home Depot usually has a sale for a pair of these around the holidays. They live in a plastic tool box from Sears, with the various accoutrements.
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Member
611
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Location
Boston, MA
boarding ladder latch plate welded

The good news is that I got the welding done, and now the boarding ladder can't vibrate out of its slot. The bad news is that this was the ugliest weld I've ever made. I blame it on unfamiliar equipment and lack of practice. It's been years since I welded something, and it was my first time using the Ready Welder.

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I used flux core wire at 24V. That was way too hot. I should have used 12V. You can see how the plate now engages the pawl. Try not to notice the ugliness of the weld.

On the bright side, the Ready Welder has more than enough power for welds like this. It fits under the bench in the back with my other tools and spare parts, so we can weld in the field. Today, I bolted the Ready Welder leads to the battery terminals, just while welding. I ordered the parts that will let me plug it directly into the slave connector.

While I was messing with the battery terminals, I discovered that the 24V positive lead had vibrated loose! The nut holding it in place was only finger tight!!!! I torqued that sucker down, and greased all the terminals with no-ox-ide while I was there.
 
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Csm Davis

Well-known member
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Hattiesburg, Mississippi
Yes. I just need more practice. That's a *lot* of power... I learned on much more tame MIG machines.
Yeah a lot of guys think I am nuts when I tell them it can out weld a big gas driven machine but it will as long as you have a set of good hot batteries and they last longer than you will at one setup.
 
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