M1010 for my daughter the field biologist

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I ordered a NOS kick-down switch on flea bay. Several parts supplier sites took my money, and then refunded it a few days later with an apology that the part is no longer available.

Driving a CUCV up a steep hill without a kick-down switch reminds me of an old Chinese proverb. "The ox is slow, but the earth is patient."

Here's a question for the transmission-literate. Is there a reason not to down-shift manually when appropriate? I was taught not to do that, especially with the accelerator floored, but is there really a difference between the kick-down switch downshifting and my doing it using the transmission lever on the steering column?

I found a little coolant on the passenger floor today. I guess it's time I learned about heater cores...

 

[Tow4]

I down shift manually when necessary since the throttle vacuum modulator valve on my truck is bypassed. With .456 gears I don't have to do it often.

 

[ODFever]

jog - One thing I learned when manually downshifting my M1009 is that I pull my foot completely off of the throttle, wait for the RPM's to drop, and then move to second gear. That technique prevents the hard SLAM you feel when you downshift under power. Try it this way and see what you think.

 

[Tow4]

OD, I figured taking your foot off the gas or partially lifting when down shifting was a no-brainer. Maybe some need concise directions.

So.... Don't down shift with your foot (and gas peddle) on the floor unless you are racing!

 

[Skinny]

As far as the downshift goes, you are accomplishing the same thing whether you get it to kickdown with the switch or placing it in 2nd. You are releasing the direct drive clutch which goes to 2nd gear. I manually do it just like you guys since I sometimes like to head into 2nd earlier on a hill to avoid going wide open.

The only difference between the two above is that if you release the throttle in 2 position, you get engine braking. If you release after it was kicked down by the switch it will coast.

 

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OD, I figured taking your foot off the gas or partially lifting when down shifting was a no-brainer. Maybe some need concise directions.

So.... Don't down shift with your foot (and gas peddle) on the floor unless you are racing!

Thanks for the clarification. The kick-down switch engages only when the pedal is floored, so I guess there *is* a difference in downshifting manually -- you have to ease up on the gas first.

I find the notion of CUCV racing kind of amusing... My truck doesn't feel particularly race-oriented in its performance.

 

[Tow4]

Thanks for the clarification. The kick-down switch engages only when the pedal is floored, so I guess there *is* a difference in downshifting manually -- you have to ease up on the gas first.

I find the notion of CUCV racing kind of amusing... My truck doesn't feel particularly race-oriented in its performance.

Ha, Ha, with .456 gears (I have a M1028A2) it's wound pretty tight at 55 mph so it sounds like you are racing. You just aren't going anywhere very fast!

 

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I'm sure glad I got the new kick-down switch installed yesterday. It helps a lot jumping into narrow gaps in traffic, and it gets my 0-60 time down to Tuesday. But I never would have predicted what happened today on the way home.

Imagine a bright blue springtime sky, sitting at a red light on Huntington Ave in Boston, and a brand new, electric blue Maserati pulls into the adjacent lane, gunning its engine. Of course, I did what any of us would have done. I shifted into neutral and gunned *my* engine. Chevy 6.2L diesel V8 vs the Maserati's measly 3.8L V8. The tailpipes roared. The college students stopped J-walking to watch. The light turned green, I shifted into drive and stomped on the gas. My brand-new kick-down switch did its thing, and by the time I got the M1010 moving the Maserati was a distant memory.

I'll admit the M1010 isn't much of a babe magnet. It garners more attention from truck guys, veterans, and small boys. I'm sure the Maserati gets more attention from the ladies. I have to wonder, though, about the parents that buy a college kid a $100K car to drive around Boston when they're supposed to be getting their $250K education...

 

[Recovry4x4]

Maserati = compensation.

 

[m1010plowboy]

We did a Military Family Resource Show years ago and all the single ladies, all the single ladies, all the single ladies wouldn't leave the 1010 alone.

You're in for a big surprise how many nurses love the man with 4 beds!

 

[Another Ahab]

We have a new Maserati dealer here in Alexandria, and it's real clear that they're "dumbing down" their cars to make them more affordable (so they can sell more I suppose).

 

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It seems it's time I learned more about the cooling system.

The temp light went on, so I pulled into a convenient AutoZone parking lot. I set up shop in the back and worked while the engine cooled. I poured a bucket of water into the radiator, and got a small, steady stream of water pouring out of the front of the transmission bell, just behind the oil pan. I removed the air cleaner so I could see. I crawled in, on, and under the truck looking for a possible source of the leak. No joy.

I've searched, googled, and read through the TMs. Is there a common coolant leak that allows the coolant to eventually run out the front of the transmission bell housing?

 

[Csm Davis]

Does the 6.2 have freeze plugs in the bellhousing area? I don't think so but maybe, will look when I get back to the house

sent from my decrepit fingers

 

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OK. I took off the air cleaner and climbed under the hood with a running engine. There is a pinhole leak just below the frontmost driver side part of the intake manifold. It squirts a stream of coolant which runs down the middle of the block, and disappears down a weep hole that clearly ends up coming out the bell housing. Please forgive the video quality. It's really hard to get a camera in there and a light and not fall into the fan. The hole is in a dimple in the head that looks like it might be an artifact of the casting.

So now I understand the problem. How do I fix it? Mig puts a lot of current through the block. I'd need to remove things like glow plugs and injectors, to be sure they're protected from stray current. JB Weld makes products that would work for a while. I don't have an acetylene torch, but I do have the gear for silver solder. I'm thinking I either need to buy an acetylene torch rig or pay someone to use theirs to weld this closed.

I welcome any words of wisdom from those who have been there.

.

https://youtu.be/veIfNj6ZIRQ

 

[cucvrus]

The holes appear to have small freeze plugs in them. I think one is corroded thru. That is what I see. I would think you could replace that expansion plug.
If you look in the 20 parts manual it shows expansion plugs Figure 2 cylinder heads,block plugs, and related parts. It shows GM part # 10425517 plug expansion. Looks pretty straight forward to replace. I know nothing is easy but it is doable.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Could you get a tap in there? Tap it and screw in a plug.

 

[richingalveston]

I think other than a temp jb weld fix. you are looking at a head removal to fix it. to silver soilder or braze you will have to have the hole facing up. Very difficult to do upside down.

Jb weld will eventually rust around, same as a screw but probably slower. There is no guarantee how deep the metal is so there may not be enough for a screw to bite. If you go to deep you may mess something else up.

I would drill it out a little and JB weld with a plan to look for some replacement heads.

 

[Csm Davis]

Okay I know you are not going to want to hear this but if I were you and this little plug rusted through I would pull them all and replace them as your daughter might not be as lucky to have one go bad in or near home and there is a trick to keep them from rusting out again coat the back of the plug with silicone before you install them it will still allow the plugs to pop if freezing occurs but seal them against rust.

sent from my decrepit fingers

 

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Thanks guys. I didn't realize freeze out plugs came that small. I just ordered a set from Dorman. I will replace those I can access. The little ones across the top will be easy enough once I remove the intake manifold. How many others are there? It looks like you have to separate the engine and transmission to get to some of these... For others, it looks like you have to pull the head to get to them, looking at the TM. If one is bad, should I expect the others to be on their last legs too?

 

[cucvrus]

I would replace the easy ones at this point. That truck has low mileage and I think the antifreeze had become acidic at some point. Short of pulling the engine and going over everything. I would just fix issues are they come up. I know my experience has been if it ain't broke don't fix it. But others opinions may vary. Sometimes a little preventive maintenance goes a long way. Fix issues as they arise and stay ahead of your routine maintenance.