M1010 somebody talk me down

[riggermedic]

1010 pics


Pic 1 what is supposed to go in the smaller bracket to the front of where the side Red Cross would go?, what is the top bracket above and in between the 2 brackets for?
pic 2 along the to back there is a capped electrical connector what does it go to? There are 2 u shaped brackets 1 per side, what are they for? On the right side top there is a spring clip, what is this? The white light is hooked up as a reverse light, is this stock?
pic 2 and 3 are those wooden chalk blocks? There is a bracket they fit and held in by wing nuts?
pic 4 the red wigwam lights are the only electrical that actually work.
pic 5 passenger floor bracket? I assume the tall center bracket and dash cut is custom? 2 L brackets on either side if the transfer case shifter?
pic 6 light switch not stock? Toggle switch controls what? Is the hand rail stock? Does that light along the top move to the other 2 positions? If so how?
pic 8 I assume the 110 outlet on the exterior top is an add on?
finally pic 9 is the first aid kit original?
is this format ok to ask a bazillion questions? I checked all 900 some pages of the -20 TM, but not any other specific to the 1010. Is there a better resource for these questions?
i just ordered the plan B top alternator for the mod. I have 3 glorious weeks of vacation starting on Sunday so time to play.
thank you in advance for all your help.

 

[riggermedic]

M1010 pics2

 

[riggermedic]

M1010 pics3

 

[riggermedic]

Quote of the day

From a buddies 8 year old daughter.... "Uncle Joe bought an ice cream truck, and its camouflage.... It's so cool"
from the mouths of babes

 

[Recovry4x4]

Pic 1. Medical caduceus placard goes in that spot. Top bracket is for a flood light.
Pic 2. Connector isn't stock but likely trailer connection. I see a receiver was added as well. U brackets are for a pt boom and the spring clip holds it out of the way. The reverse light was added as were chock blocks.
Pic 5. Passenger floor bracket is stock, don't know what for. All my CUCVs have it. Brackets up the dash are an add on but the brackets on either side of the shifter are for the radio tray.
Pic 6. Right, light switch was added. Toggle was for a fluorescent light in the ceiling. Another one exists right under a/c. Hand rail is not stock. The light is a focus light. It can be moved. It's held in with a ring like used to hold a socket on an impact. Will need some lube eventually. Twist and tug usually gets them free.
Other stuff. 110 outlet was added as was the first aid kit. The -10 has a bunch of information on the operations of the M1010. The -34P has exploded images of all this stuff as well. Hope this helps you along.

 

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This is as-built by GM, except we added seat belts in the back.

 

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Astute observers will note that the passenger heater exhaust pipe and the radio rack over the transfer case are not mounted. The former is a work in progress. The latter interferes too much with passenger leg room.

The OP has an additional back-up light. We both have added trailer hitch receivers. Mine is mounted a little higher than his.

 

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Does anyone know what the fuel pump looking thing is on the driver side firewall is, it's clicking up a storm let the 1010 education begin

This pump (circled) pumps fuel to the fuel-fired heater in the passenger compartment. If it's "clicking up a storm", it's trying to send fuel somewhere. Since you don't seem to have this heater, I'm not sure where it's sending fuel, but it's probably not good. As suggested, you can unplug it. It only gets power when the rear personnel heater switch is turned on. Since you no longer have that switch, I wonder where it's getting power...

 

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Here are the switch panels, jump box as recommended elsewhere, and passenger side floor. I had to remove the radio mount in that floor in order to treat rust beneath it. I used a grinder to grind away the welds. I haven't needed the jump box since we did the Plan B Mod and put in serious batteries.

 

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M1010 wiring is troublesome as designed. More troublesome is figuring out how previous owners modified it. If you eliminate the DUVAC and proceed with patience and the TMs, you can get it figured out and solid. Be aware that these batteries have a *lot* of juice, and can do serious damage. I use mine to arc weld on occasion. I have a Ready Welder that plugs into the slave port, and I find it has more power than I can easily control, so I had to add a resistor to my kit to tone down the amps. If you don't know about DC electricity, please study up on the topic before you dive in. It's not rocket science, but it's easy to make expensive mistakes.

My local Technical High School offers night classes to adults, if you need that level of support. They tend to be nice folks who know what they're doing.

 

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This is the stock grill. OP seems to have emergency lights where I have the blackout light and 24V outlet.

 

[the skull]

Jealousy was creeping in till I saw the pic of the firewall with the wiring.
I will keep my halfway sorted out system I have. You have my sympathy Sir

 

[riggermedic]

Thanks for all the pics. I am thinking 100 steps ahead and need to slow down.
the starter is direct drive, it is bolted good and has the bracket attached. The batteries are pro start 600 ca manufactured 11/15 and 2/16 according to the sticker. They were both reading low 11's voltage wise, I don't have them load tested yet, I replaced one with one I replaced in my 1009. It cranked ok but wouldn't start very well normally by the third or fourth try in 4-5 second bursts. Temp is around 80 degrees outside so glow plugs shouldn't really be an issue.
when running I test 14.2 in front and 28.4 between both. I have only the bottom alternator and maybe a working Duvac?
It starts cold ok, and warm ok if off for a minute or 2, but more than a few minutes and it just cranks getting weaker each time. Wait an hour and it starts ok. It runs and drives very nice.
plan is to install the plan b mod and get 2 new group 31 batteries. After this I can diagnose the rest of the system. I do have a draw from somewhere in that rat nest of electrical ineptitude as seen in the photos.
I will start stripping that down to stock and see where diagnostics take me from there.
thank you for all your help, it is a mess but very exciting

 

[riggermedic]

Next 2 steps include checking the starting circuit, dog head relay mod and full battery cable/starter cable replacement.
or should I say all of this as step 1. I think that is a solid day of work

 

[jld66]

Recovery 4X4 answered most of your questions right on. The bracket on the passenger side floor is for an M-8 chemical agent detector. The bracket at the center of the dash is not military. Although it is located where a radio mount belongs it is not the correct mount. The transfer shift lever is actually bent to accommodate the correct radio mount which is unique to the M1010. The marker lights at the top rear and the wigwag lights in the grill are not military. The blackout dive light is missing from the grill and the blackout marker lights are missing from the bumper. The flood lights are missing from the upper center of each side. There should be two of the focused work lights on each side of the patient compartment which can be mounted on any of six mounts on their side of the box. The patient boom missing from the upper rear bracket is to accommodate a block & tackle and sling to assist raising litter patients to the upper berths. It is normally stowed on the right side, thus the clip, but can me moved to the left for use there. In addition to the caduceus placards on the sides and the red crosses on the sides and rear doors there should also be a very large red cross panel on the roof. Hope this adds some clarity for you.

 

[riggermedic]

New alt comes in tomorrow, bought a nato slave bracket, BO drive light, set of BO marker lights and 2 top battery brackets, I have all new battery cable and terminals. I already did this on my 1009 so have experience. Going camping tomorrow then to Vegas, so no time to play yet.
I spent 6 hours at work going over the -34, that was helpful. Nothing in the box is original so I do have 2 questions. Passenger right rear of the box is a cover.... Ref second group of my pics 7 and 8 I think. Also on pic 9 my power steering pump has 2 belts? Is this part for the missing compressor?

 

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Stock configuration has 2 belts on PS, front one drives PS alone. Rear one drives both PS and A/C compressor.

I'm not sure I understand your other question. Stock box has heater in right rear corner, with access panel on outside of the truck. Heater lives under the "bench" which you don't have.

 

[riggermedic]

So I attempted to pass emissions yesterday. Not so good results. Batteries were load tested and good, but the truck won't restart when hot hence no emissions test. Wait 2 hours and it starts. The single alternator charges the front battery at 13 volts and the combo at 28.4 volts with the Duvac in place. I think my starter is heat soaked. Have a new starter on its way, gear reduction instead of direct drive. Already have a new relay, plan b alternator, battery cables and terminals. Picking up 2 new group 31 batteries today.
Truck has a new IP and new injectors. Is there any other reason it wouldn't start when hot? She fires right up when cold, or after 2 hours of sitting when hot. It's been around 80 degrees so I don't think GP are in the equation. It does crank just won't fire. Any theories?

 

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when it doesn't start, what *does* it do? relay chatter? does it crank? does it sputter? please provide all the detail you can.

 

[riggermedic]

Just cranks progressively getting weaker. No relay chatter, no sign of firing. I'm afraid to crank it more than 3 or 4 second at a time because it sounds so weak toward the end. New starter, relay, cables, terminals and batteries should expel the gremlin. I'm not thinking prime because it fires right up after cooling off