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Too big a hole is required for those.
They also just beg to be filled with dirt, etc.
The ones I'm using are flat enough not to cause problems and will not collect dirt.
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They also just beg to be filled with dirt, etc.
The ones I'm using are flat enough not to cause problems and will not collect dirt.
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Here is photos of modification to allow the use of the tailgate chains to hold tailgate level.
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Very good idea.
Do you ever have the pin slip out a bit?
Looks like its barely through the other side.
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I wish pin was 3/4" longer but it really can't slip even if not all way through both sides of square tubing. I even slotted the top so it has to be indexed to remove.
When unpinning the gate just go ahead and insert it will pivot nicely as you lower tailgate.
Csm Davis
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Think I might use the stainless d-rings not worried about the nsn.
Like the tailgate mod.
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Like the tailgate mod.
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I just use chain quick links and add I think 10 pieces of the same diameter chain inbetween the existing chain and the loop on the tailgate. Still has the functionality with the pins and one quick unscrew of a quicklink on each side and it can drop all the way down.
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I'm not sure I would use them either without good bracing on the back side of the sheet steel, I just responded to your statement that you couldn't find them.
I added chain links using repair lap links to lengthen the tail gate chains to level the tailgate.
Everyone needs to be advised though that the chain tabs on the tailgate will bend under heavy loads. I tried to load my 600lb 4-wheeler with the gate level, and bent the tabs. In fact, I was afraid the chains would rip off at the bed weld or the tailgate tabs. If anyone is loading their trailer using ramps, drop the tailgate to vertical and rest the ramp ends on the bed.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...-Olive-Green!-ATV-4-wheeler-in-a-M101-trailer
Another Ahab
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So they have a built-in integral drain hole? That's a great idea.
It's always a PIA how floor hold-downs become gunk traps, and a drain would sure help.
Of course I guess I should just drill a hole in each.
Have you maybe got a pic of those?
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The drain holes are perfect for rain only.
Add leaves, twigs, dirt, etc and they quickly become a PITA.
My M989A1 anchor points had drains and they were always full of something.
I'll stick to the bolt in d-rings rated at 11k each. Zink plated so no rust.
Plenty strong and nothing to retain water and gunk.
Plus I'm not drilling 3" holes in it.
They will be backed with plated steel and be more than strong enough for anything the trailer will carry.
Add leaves, twigs, dirt, etc and they quickly become a PITA.
My M989A1 anchor points had drains and they were always full of something.
I'll stick to the bolt in d-rings rated at 11k each. Zink plated so no rust.
Plenty strong and nothing to retain water and gunk.
Plus I'm not drilling 3" holes in it.
They will be backed with plated steel and be more than strong enough for anything the trailer will carry.
Csm Davis
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Yes they make a steel plate for the back to sandwich the floor for reinforcement and I may get some for mine because I will put a load on mine for sure.
Some have holes some don't, I will drill them in my stainless hold downs, and as to trash in the pocket I generally keep the covers on, but the pressure washer works great for cleaning them if not.
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Csm Davis
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This is pictures of the set I will get. 
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I used 1/2" eye bolts though 1"x2" C channel near hinge to help minimize compression of channel. It's hidden by gussets so should never be in way.
Picture on left is looking down with tailgate up.
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They make forged ones that are very strong. No open end.
I have found that those your using tend to bend rather easily.
Used them on the ranch for different projects.
Good idea on placement.
I would suggest using a lock nut or washer on yours.
Doesn't look like either one is used.
That sprayed in bed liner looks good.
I've had some open up too. I put a spot of weld on them, they are not tempered. The open hook looks suspect for opening also.
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D-Rings have been ordered.
Now to fix a weak point on these trailers and install a new tongue jack.
The jack that was installed on the later manufactured units, with the separate jack handle, are hard to find and expensive when you do.
Have read they also don't hold up very well and internals strip out.
Think I will go with the type that is installed on the M1101/2's.
Can bolt or weld them on. Either will work fine.
Not sure if it's a Bulldog or ??? Brand.
Now to find one........
Tired of killing my lower back.
Now to fix a weak point on these trailers and install a new tongue jack.
The jack that was installed on the later manufactured units, with the separate jack handle, are hard to find and expensive when you do.
Have read they also don't hold up very well and internals strip out.
Think I will go with the type that is installed on the M1101/2's.
Can bolt or weld them on. Either will work fine.
Not sure if it's a Bulldog or ??? Brand.
Now to find one........
Tired of killing my lower back.
hplacess
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sounds interesting.
would you have any pics of that mod so we can see what the chains look like without the tailgate level (down all the way as normal), and then with the tailgate level (with your chain mod).
if yes, thanks!
harleyhouse
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Great trailers to haul beach gear too!
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Jeff what site did you find the backing plates on?? Thanks in advance.
I've been looking at a m101 style trailer for sale for $350 in my area. I'm not sure which one it is (a2, a3, etc). I have a few quick questions, since we're talking about which trailer is the best:
1) Can you pull an m101 behind a v6 Toyota Tacoma that tows 6,500 lbs? I am looking for a cool trailer for getting mulch a few times a year, picking up appliances, etc. I would only drive it around town at 30-45mph.
2) Can you move the m416 or the m101 by hand on a level concrete surface, or are they both too heavy?
Forgive me if these are dumb questions. I've just started looking at obtaining a military trailer this week.
1) Can you pull an m101 behind a v6 Toyota Tacoma that tows 6,500 lbs? I am looking for a cool trailer for getting mulch a few times a year, picking up appliances, etc. I would only drive it around town at 30-45mph.
2) Can you move the m416 or the m101 by hand on a level concrete surface, or are they both too heavy?
Forgive me if these are dumb questions. I've just started looking at obtaining a military trailer this week.