M1030M1 out of the crate, into service

[derekundrwd]

My company acquired a M1030M1 with 12 miles on it via a govdeals auction. The title showed it was acquired by Coffee County, TN in June of 2014. The county employees indicated it had been in a crate with another M1030M1 in the yard since they've had it, up to a couple months ago. Both bikes in the crate were sold at online auction late last year, but only one of them was paid for, so they re-auctioned this one.

The bike has no fluids in it. I want to return this to operational status. I figure somebody can correct me if I am misguided on how to proceed. I do have the pdf of section 2 of the "operator maintenance" manual.

The plate on the neck says "RE-MANUFACTURE DATE 10/2009". The Dunlop D606s look new, but are potentially 14 years old now. I will install heavy duty Moose Racing tubes, and new D606s. Being that this bike will probably end up riding in high plains desert in the future I am planning on installing rim locks (and of course balancing the wheels).

I figure any 50/50 blue motorcycle coolant would suffice for the cooling system.

I spoke to Amsoil tech support and he recommended that I use their "Premium Protection 10w-40 Synthetic" because the HDT engine is a wet sump design and he was concerned with additives negatively affecting the clutch discs. I saw where a M1030M1 owner here on SteelSoldiers said he used "Signature Series Max-Duty Synthetic Diesel Oil 5W-30", which I initially bought. I since have ordered the Premium Protection synthetic and can use the Signature series in my truck if not the bike. I am interested in feedback for oil selection.

I have K&N KLR650 oil filters which I believe are the same as what's used in the M1030M1.

I'll replace the air filter.

I have DOT 5 Silicon brake fluid. I also ordered front & rear caliper rebuild kits. If this has sat without fluids in it that long I figure replacing the seals would not be a bad idea.

I ordered a PC625 battery, as the one in it reads 0.77VDC.

I bought some Opti-Lube XPD additives for diesel fuel.

When I took the seat off to check out the battery I noticed that a few of the staples holding the seat cover on were coming out. If the foam the staples were in is degraded I'll probably get a lot more of that if I'm not proactive.

I ordered replacement OEM type turn signals as three of the four are hanging by the wires, the plastics having deteriorated from heat.

Is there anything else anyone would recommend I take a look at doing before I start the War Pig?

Derek

 

[87cr250r]

The K&N style filter is the absolute worst you can put on a dirtbike. You need oiled foam.

Oil isn't particularly important. This is a 30 horsepower machine. It will tolerate anything. Diesel engine oils have soot dispersants. That's all you need.


If the brakes still have DOT 5 and weren't contaminated everything should still be in good condition.

I used to get pinch flats until I stopped running the Moose heavy duty tubes. They're thicker and more likely to get pinched. The cheap Kendas or OEM tubes are the best.

If the bike starts and runs you don't need to add anything else to the fuel.

Motorcycles typically run a 70/30 coolant due to high performance but at 30 hp the 50/50 will be fine.

Guts makes really nice seat foams and covers if you need one. Use Monel stapes if you can find them and they'll never rust.

 

[derekundrwd]

The K&N style filter is the absolute worst you can put on a dirtbike. You need oiled foam.

Oil isn't particularly important. This is a 30 horsepower machine. It will tolerate anything. Diesel engine oils have soot dispersants. That's all you need.


If the brakes still have DOT 5 and weren't contaminated everything should still be in good condition.

I used to get pinch flats until I stopped running the Moose heavy duty tubes. They're thicker and more likely to get pinched. The cheap Kendas or OEM tubes are the best.

If the bike starts and runs you don't need to add anything else to the fuel.

Motorcycles typically run a 70/30 coolant due to high performance but at 30 hp the 50/50 will be fine.

Guts makes really nice seat foams and covers if you need one. Use Monel stapes if you can find them and they'll never rust.

Thanks for the reply.

Yes sir, when I mentioned K&N filter I was referring to the oil filter. I am planning on using a standard oiled foam air filter.

All the fluids were drained by the military, so there is currently no brake fluid in the system. I figure brakes are important enough to warrant rebuilding the calipers, adding fresh rubber and making sure there's no rust is in the system after having sat a decade plus in a hot humid parking lot without any fluids.

Is "Guts" a member here?

Derek

 

[87cr250r]

No, Guts is just a brand.

https://www.gutsracing.com/

 

[glcaines]

Fred Hayes was President of HDT. When Fred Hayes was still alive, he said that AMSOIL Series 3000 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel motor oil should be used in the M1030M1 engines. It is relatively hard to find, but I found some on Ebay a while back. Definitely use the Optilube XPD. I had the front tire blow while driving mine. Hidden inside the tire was a rotten tube. Both of my tires were dry-rotted as well and were replaced. You might want to go ahead and replace the tubes and possibly tires. One note that Fred Hayes drilled into me. Never, never, never use the compression release while starting the bike as it will cause damage.
About installing the battery. Fred Hayes said to trim off the cooling fins on the outside of the battery to provide clearance for the cover. However, you will notice a round nylon spacer where the outer cover is attached. I went to the hardware store and purchased an identical nylon spacer that was slightly longer and used it instead. If you do this, you won't need to trim the cooling fins from the battery and you can't tell any difference looking at the bike. In addition, I suspect trimming the cooling fins would void the battery warranty.