M1031 build thread

[Skinny]

After installing my lift, I noticed a small sag to the driver's side. So I ordered up a set of new 8+1 stock rear springs from Eaton Springs. I also ordered up a rear U-bolt flip kit and HD shackles from ORD.

Since it was on the lift, I finished changing out all of the fluids, cleaned my transmission pan up, and changed out my kickdown solenoid. Transmission shifts great now...woohoo!!!

I pulled it back in today and dug in to some electrical cleanup. First thing was to finish pulling all of the dash bulbs, sand the electrical connectors, and reinstall. Now all of my illumination and indicator bulbs work. My 4wd indicator switch on my NP205 is dead. No luck finding a switch for one. Anyone have a good source? All I can find on Napa or RockAuto is a switch for an NP208 regardless of what application I use.

I swapped my oil cap and also got a box from CUCV Electric. Changed out both under dash relays just to be safe. Both looked clean and in good shape so I will keep them as spares. I also got a new starter relay. In the engine bay, I changed out both ratty alternator pigtails.

I really like the stock dual exhausts on the CUCV rigs. They are plain and very industrial looking. Doing some straight pipes or downturns after my shackle flip looked very attractive but thought to myself it may look too high school teen junk truck...so I welded on some extensions to keep my stock CUCV look out back with the exhaust.

Last thing for this weekend was dealing with my remaining two stuck glow plugs. In fear of snapping one off, I did my best to do a surgical extraction. First, I ran the truck for a few minutes to get it up to temp. Second, I raced it for the last minute getting those cylinder heads nice and hot. Last, I unscrewed the glow plug, sprayed some penetrating oil on it, and twisted with a pair of vice grips. What a fight but they both came out that way. What a freakin' relief that was. I can finally sleep knowing I have 8 new AC60's antiseized in there with a working GP controller and a resistor bypass. All ready for winter

Next week after Santa comes, I will dig into the replacement rear springs, look into a dual spin on fuel filter, fuel tank switch valve, and maybe a Suburban 40 gallon rear tank. Plus I confirmed my generator head works but no functioning governor. Always new projects

 

[dstang97]

Love this build. I always wanted a lifted m1031. Thats gonna be the next one i get.

 

[Skinny]

 

[jets1959]

Since you have the relay panel out you need to do the Doghead starter relay mod. The standard relay is not strong enough and it only cost about twenty dollars. Look it up at the very top on the CUCV form. You are very welcome about the oil cap, it is what this site is all about helping each other out. I think your rig is very cool as well! Keep us updated.

 

[Skinny]

So the replacement CUCV Electric starter relay isn't any better than the junk stock one? It has an extra terminal so I figured it was a revised part. I remember reading that the newer CUCV's do not need a doghead mod. I can always go spend the big money at NAPA for the other style solenoid. DOH!!!

 

[jets1959]

The original relay is a heater relay and is very weak. Any direct replacement relay is still a weak relay. The replacement (doghead) is a starter relay, 100 amp, with many different applications. P/N 7-01860-1 is $10.49 at O'Reilly auto parts.

 

[Skinny]

So Jets1959 schooled me again, I did the doghead mod for some extra security.

 

[Skinny]

My PTO drive was leaking a decent amount of fluid so I did some investigating. It was dripping from a plug that has a slot for a screwdriver. I thought maybe it was loose so I turned it with a flat head. That pretty opened the flood gate. I removed the PTO and it turns out that is a shift shaft and is sealed with an o-ring. So I cleaned up the shift housing, resealed it, installed new zinc hardware, and cleaned up the wiring. Hope this keeps it from leaking.

New Eaton springs are sitting on my shop floor, still waiting for ORD rear shackles and U-bolt flip kit.

 

[jets1959]

Another project you may not have thought of is to replace the door locks and the ignition lock. All cucv's are keyed the same. Autozone sells all the locks and it is fairly easy to do. I don't want anyone to steal your ride when it is so close to being completed.

 

[jets1959]

My PTO drive was leaking a decent amount of fluid so I did some investigating. It was dripping from a plug that has a slot for a screwdriver. I thought maybe it was loose so I turned it with a flat head. That pretty opened the flood gate. I removed the PTO and it turns out that is a shift shaft and is sealed with an o-ring. So I cleaned up the shift housing, resealed it, installed new zinc hardware, and cleaned up the wiring. Hope this keeps it from leaking.

New Eaton springs are sitting on my shop floor, still waiting for ORD rear shackles and U-bolt flip kit.

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Your PTO sure is clean mine looks like something out of a grease pit.

 

[Skinny]

Another project you may not have thought of is to replace the door locks and the ignition lock. All cucv's are keyed the same. Autozone sells all the locks and it is fairly easy to do. I don't want anyone to steal your ride when it is so close to being completed.

Already beat you to that one. I ordered up some nice new zinc door locks from RockAuto the first week I had the truck. The locks keep the honest people honest. The 9mm or 12ga. under my bed keep the thiefs from being thiefs

 

[Skinny]

Your PTO sure is clean mine looks like something out of a grease pit.

The PTO is in great shape. I'm very happy I didn't come in to the shop this morning to a huge puddle of ATF. Looks nice and dry today...yay!

I think as far as the generator goes, I need to first tighten the drivebelt. I have confirmed that the outlet does generate power when plugging in a drill. Not sure what frequency it is at and the governor is not hooked up or moving for that matter. I will be rewiring the head to a 120/240v single phase setup and installing a new motor on the compressor. The welder is coming out but I need to verify it works first before I sell it.

 

[leeh725]

Conversion to single phase

Specifically, how do you propose to change the gen set to 240 single phase?

 

[Skinny]

If you download the TM for the generator head, it is a pretty standard 12 lead triple phase head. You can reconfigure the leads to be in a delta or wye configuration and also single and triple phase along with voltage. From what I understand, if you convert to single phase, you lose about 1/3 of your wattage output.

If you find the manual, you rewire it to Diagram G if I remember correctly.

 

[Skinny]

Today was getting some housekeeping done. I pulled the front driveshaft and clearanced the CV yoke. It was slightly binding at full droop on the lift. I removed a bit of material and now it spins smooth. I also put a little blue loctite on the driveshaft fasteners which always is some good insurance.

While I had the driveshaft out, I pulled the governor cover again because it was leaking. Perfect opportunity to splash some paint on it and give it some zinc bling.

I had the machine tool program across the hall make me a bronze bushing insert for the tcase shifter. It was completely missing and the shifter had a ton of play. Now it's as tight as an 84' NP205 can possibly be.

I won't be putting my new rear springs in for a while because ORD is backordered on U-bolts. Hoping for an end of next week delivery.

 

[Skinny]

I decided I am going to ditch the SECM PTO generator setup. It just takes up too much space, is overkill for what I need, and I already own a generator/welder/air compressor setup.

The welder is already sold to an SS member. I am looking to sell the remaining equipment. The generator has 5 hours on it. Everything is very clean and I have spun it up. All outlets are reading the correct voltage. The governor is missing the arm that goes to the injection pump so this will need to be repaired. If anyone is interested in this stuff, throw me an offer.

 

[jets1959]

I decided I am going to ditch the SECM PTO generator setup. It just takes up too much space, is overkill for what I need, and I already own a generator/welder/air compressor setup.

The welder is already sold to an SS member. I am looking to sell the remaining equipment. The generator has 5 hours on it. Everything is very clean and I have spun it up. All outlets are reading the correct voltage. The governor is missing the arm that goes to the injection pump so this will need to be repaired. If anyone is interested in this stuff, throw me an offer.

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Parts are just to heavy to ship to me!!!!! Other wise I would be interested. There is a guy in NY who has a few M1031"s he maybe interested. Search M1031"s at work or on the job.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I just opened this thread for the first time and I must say, really cool truck. I'm most fascinated by the camper rims you have. They look to be 9.75 versions. Where did you find them at?

 

[leeh725]

I would love to get my hands on an SECM welder. I have been trying to get my hands on one for a few months now.

 

[Skinny]

I just opened this thread for the first time and I must say, really cool truck. I'm most fascinated by the camper rims you have. They look to be 9.75 versions. Where did you find them at?

Thank you. The rims are off a late 80's, early 90's F250/350 and are 9.75" wide. The width is slightly too wide. I had to get the local tire guy down the road to seat the beads because my machine wouldn't do it. He has a big air cannon which did the job after letting the tires sit in the sun for hours. I hope I never blow a bead...

I got them off craigslist. I have to say, 16.5" rims are getting very hard to find in decent shape.