M1035 Help With Parts Identification

[CapePrep]

Hello All, I know I will be roasted for this, but I want to assure everyone I have really tried to dig into the archives/search and can't find what I am looking for!
I just picked up a 1986 M1035. Front suspension is really rusted and need 2 upper control arms. Trying to figure out the designation of my new toy as in "M998" or ??? I have used the 1035 designation and can't find anything specific. Wanted to cross reference a part number I found on $bay. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Mogman]

I am not sure why you are having issues, your M1035 has a UOC of H20, have you looked the part numbers up in the parts TM 9-2320-280-24P-1?

 

[CapePrep]

I am not sure why you are having issues, your M1035 has a UOC of H20, have you looked the part numbers up in the parts TM 9-2320-280-24P-1?
View attachment 914568View attachment 914569

Thank you for that. You have to realize I am not ex military and have no idea what the 2 abbreviations you used even mean! "UOC" "H20"??? Those things and references with initials are thrown around like people should just know what they are.
I have no idea. And I was looking at numerous TM but never found what you did in 2 minutes! That is exactly what I was looking for. Do all of the early trucks use the same control arms? I will continue to search. Thanks.

 

[Mogman]

UOC = Usable On Code, every vehicle has one.
In the TM a few pages past the TOC (table of content) you will find a list of UOCs.
The M1035=H20

Then you look up the part, if there are no UOCs listed for a part then that part fits every vehicle listed in that parts TM, part numbers 1, 2 and 3 above are an example of that.

Another example if you look at part number 6 (upper control arm) listed above you will see 4 different part numbers (two left and two right) with different UOCs that the parts fit, the first two have your UOC of H20 listed.

 

[TNDRIVER]

Thank you for that. You have to realize I am not ex military and have no idea what the 2 abbreviations you used even mean! "UOC" "H20"??? Those things and references with initials are thrown around like people should just know what they are.
I have no idea. And I was looking at numerous TM but never found what you did in 2 minutes! That is exactly what I was looking for. Do all of the early trucks use the same control arms? I will continue to search. Thanks.

You can retro fit the newer style control arms to the early trucks, they have a reinforcement "loop" around the ball joint if my memory serves me (It's the coffee thing again). They get a different ball joint with bigger bolts may be........ it's been several years since I swapped out my 998 arms. There is a slight difference in the bushings also, serrations on the inside bushing, no big deal. Set it on the ground before tightening everything back up. The bushings that is..... I also remember they are unique to their location, RF, LF, RR, LR, I think, I need another cup of coffee. The lowers are RF and LR...LF and RR interchangeable. Hope this is not too confusing.

 

[CapePrep]

You can retro fit the newer style control arms to the early trucks, they have a reinforcement "loop" around the ball joint if my memory serves me (It's the coffee thing again). They get a different ball joint with bigger bolts may be........ it's been several years since I swapped out my 998 arms. There is a slight difference in the bushings also, serrations on the inside bushing, no big deal. Set it on the ground before tightening everything back up. The bushings that is..... I also remember they are unique to their location, RF, LF, RR, LR, I think, I need another cup of coffee. The lowers are RF and LR...LF and RR interchangeable. Hope this is not too confusing.

Thank you. I have noticed that about RF/LR being interchangeable. Another interesting thing is that I am finding RF arms no problem on the used market, but no luck with LF....still researching and trying to locate. Here is a pic of what I am dealing with. Let' just say, I enjoy a project and know what I am getting into, I think!

 

[CapePrep]

UOC = Usable On Code, every vehicle has one.
In the TM a few pages past the TOC (table of content) you will find a list of UOCs.
The M1035=H20

Then you look up the part, if there are no UOCs listed for a part then that part fits every vehicle listed in that parts TM, part numbers 1, 2 and 3 above are an example of that.

Another example if you look at part number 6 (upper control arm) listed above you will see 4 different part numbers (two left and two right) with different UOCs that the parts fit, the first two have your UOC of H20 listed.
View attachment 914570

Thank you for the patient explanation! I "think" I understand! Like learning a new language. Any suggestions on where and who parts these out? I am realizing I need some mounting brackets for the arms as well.

 

[TNDRIVER]

Thank you. I have noticed that about RF/LR being interchangeable. Another interesting thing is that I am finding RF arms no problem on the used market, but no luck with LF....still researching and trying to locate. Here is a pic of what I am dealing with. Let' just say, I enjoy a project and know what I am getting into, I think!

NOT a professional mechanic here, BUT I think you made a good call on the replacement thing!

 

[CapePrep]

NOT a professional mechanic here, BUT I think you made a good call on the replacement thing!

For your viewing pleasure.....Someone was getting creative with welding. I see stuff like this and just shake my head and wonder what people were thinking and is this how they deal with their lives! Let's just say I "bought it right" so I don't mind putting some sweat equity into it.

 

[Mullaney]

For your viewing pleasure.....Someone was getting creative with welding. I see stuff like this and just shake my head and wonder what people were thinking and is this how they deal with their lives! Let's just say I "bought it right" so I don't mind putting some sweat equity into it.

.
Yeah! You definitely need some replacement parts...

Looks to me like the spring perches need to be looked at carefully as well. It almost looks like this thing was bought somewhere up north and maybe the PO (Previous Owner) had a snow plow on it. That, or the PO just rumbled down the road on the salt and slag and never sprayed the undercarriage with a little water.

Happy to know that you got it for a right price.

.

 

[Dieselmeister]

All that rust makes me wonder what the inside of the frame rails looks like.

 

[Mogman]

All that rust makes me wonder what the inside of the frame rails looks like.

I was thinking the same thing, did not want to be the first to say it.

 

[Mullaney]

I was thinking the same thing, did not want to be the first to say it.

.
Well, that's good...
Seems like there are three of us now who may have concerns about the underside of the vehicle.

 

[Mogman]

Almost comical how whoever was trying to "fix" it welded moving parts to non moving parts.

 

[CapePrep]

.
Well, that's good...
Seems like there are three of us now who may have concerns about the underside of the vehicle.

All good points gentlemen. I don't have it in my possession yet. But, I have looked at it in person and once I get it to my shop next week I will do a more in depth search. I have crawled under it and I didn't see anything glaring, but didn't think to look at the frame rails. No money has passed hands yet, so you have given me some food for thought. Was going to have a tow truck pick it up on Tuesday.

 

[Guyfang]

If the TM's are like reading Russian, say something lots of folks here can help with decoding them.

 

[Mogman]

I would SERIOUSLY think about it before laying out any cash.
Parts are very expensive, does it run? if not that alone can set you back $1000-1500 if nothing serious is wrong with it.
That truck has obviously not only been driven hard and put up wet it likely has had poor overall maintenance.
In the end you are going to end up with a 3 speed truck that likely still has a 6.2L GM engine in it.
GP is selling tons of A2 and ECV trucks fairly cheap and after all the work you end up with a much more desirable vehicle.

This of course is just my opinion and worth every penny you paid for it

If you have more photos post them, the ones you have posted paint a very bleak picture.

 

[CapePrep]

I would SERIOUSLY think about it before laying out any cash.
Parts are very expensive, does it run? if not that alone can set you back $1000-1500 if nothing serious is wrong with it.
That truck has obviously not only been driven hard and put up wet it likely has had poor overall maintenance.
In the end you are going to end up with a 3 speed truck that likely still has a 6.2L GM engine in it.
GP is selling tons of A2 and ECV trucks fairly cheap and after all the work you end up with a much more desirable vehicle.

This of course is just my opinion and worth every penny you paid for it

If you have more photos post them, the ones you have posted paint a very bleak picture.

Mogman, great advice and I really appreciate it. Here are the facts, would appreciate your opinion and I do value it since you are the Mod here and have much more experience than I. I live on Cape Cod, as does the truck. The truck has supposedly been owned by the seller since 95. Said he just had it as a toy with his Dad. Dad passed 2 years ago, current owner seems very sincere and is having health issues. They listed it for $15K, I offered 6 and they accepted. As I said, no $ has been exchanged yet. I am not new to mechanics and toys. Won't bore your with my history, but rebuilding a diesel engine or a 1959 Porsche don't scare me. The rust issue on the H is pretty severe and made me pause. It does run, and runs well. He put it in gear and moved it a few feet back and forth but not more due to the front suspension. All electrics work, good oil pressure, no blow by or excessive smoke from exhaust. It has sat outside for its whole life, but has had no use in the last couple of years due to family health issues. You, and the others, have made me reconsider and will go on Monday for a good crawl underneath to check the frame rails. I am not afraid to walk away if it is really bad. Rotted frame rails would be a deal breaker. As far as others in the auctions, I have been watching them and the unknowns, the shipping costs, etc are up around $20K. More than I want to spend, but I get what you are saying regarding whether this one is a complete pile. As far as the rust goes, I had a 99 Dodge pickup that must have been made out of the cheapest Chinese metal available. The thing would rust while you were looking at it. Loved the Cummins, but the rest was awful. So, thought maybe the HMMWV had used some very poor quality metal as well. So, here are a few more pictures, awaiting your analysis.

 

[Mogman]

I can only say what I would do and I would pass on this one, that rust scares the heck out of me, I cannot imagine the only place that has serious corrosion would be the front suspension.

 

[Wildland]

Regarding the price asked and condition I can only tell you what I paid for my two humvees purchased from GP. I bought a 2007 M1097R1 in November 2022 for $4600 plus taxes so $5600 and its a strong runner and from Red River Army Depot. The motor runs great (6.5 NA), trans looks like new inside as do diffs, all came with full, clean fluids too. Transportation was $1k (friend). The second, bought July 2023. is a 2003 M997A2 Ambulance, runner, clean, newish tires, 6.5 NA, 4spd trans, runs 65 down the highway with ease, for $4100, with taxes $5100, transport was $1750. If you're patient and watch for a close-by truck you can def find a good deal on a clean rig.

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