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M105A2 electric over hydraulic actuator

ecotrek

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New here to the Steel Soldier.
Just purchased a M105A2 from GL.
I have plenty of tow vehicle-2004 Dodge 3500 dually Diesel.
I routinely tow 14000 pounds so the M105 should be no problem.
I am, although wanting to have working brakes on the M105.
I have ruled out the axle swap because I want to maintain the stock look. Besides, it has new tires.
I thought about a hydraulic brake actuator with lunette ring, but I am very sure the brakes will lock up while backing.
So I most likely rule that method out unless someone has a solution to the backing condition.
Finally, there is the electric over hydraulic actuator, similar to the Dexter K71-650 or the Titan 4822500.
Has anyone out there set their M105A2 with electric over hydraulic brakes.
If so, please step me through the process.
Thank you.
 
Last edited:

SteveKuhn

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Check the surge brake actuator for a pin-way. On the M101s, a pin goes through the actuator to keep it from locking while backing. The one you're looking at probably has the same feature.

Steve
 

ecotrek

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Steve,
thank you for your reply. Are you referring to an aftermarket surge brake actuator or the electric over hydraulic control?
 

silverstate55

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If you use an electric-hydraulic actuator, the brakes on the trailer won't be applied until you depress your truck's brake pedal. That allows you to keep the stock lunette ring and avoid any fabrication other than installing the actuator & new brake line, along with electric line.

If you fabricate a mount to install a surge brake coupler (aka hitch), you will need to make sure that this coupler has a lock-out feature to avoid applying hydraulic brake pressure while backing.
 

ecotrek

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silverstate55....once again, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
El-Hyd sounds like a clean set up.
Other than mounting the actuator, running the wire and new brake line, what else is involved in this set-up?
Do I remove any unneeded hardware from the trailer?
Any help will be greatly appreciated!!
Thank you in advance.
 

SteveKuhn

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I was talking about the aftermarket surge brake actuator. They aren't cheap, but neither are the electric actuators (and controller), though the latter probably avoids cutting and welding on the trailer tongue. I suspect they'll be about the same in price unless you can do the bulk of the labor for each or either yourself.

Steve
 

m16ty

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My Dad had one of those electric over hyd actuators on a horse trailer he has. It didn't work very well (either too much brake or not enough) and finally quit altogether. The truck he was pulling it with (Freightliner FL60) had air brakes so I rigged him up a air over hyd system with a deuce MC and a brake chamber.

I'd think a surge brake setup would work the best.
 

ecotrek

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Thank you for your replies.
It seems I have some decisions to make.
Is there a concern that by adding a surge coupler will extend the total length of the tongue, making it too long.
I would be considering a coupler that has an electric solenoid to actuate the lockout instead of the manual lockout.
They are a bit longer.
Any thoughts on that?
 

m16ty

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I'm not sure what the fitting is for brake assembly on your existing axle, but why not convert to full electric brakes?
While I guess anything is possible, it wouldn't be a easy chore to try and convert over to fully electric brakes. It wouldn't be just a bolt-on project.
 

kjo43

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While I guess anything is possible, it wouldn't be a easy chore to try and convert over to fully electric brakes. It wouldn't be just a bolt-on project.
Perhaps not on the M105 as you said - I don't know the trailer in detail...

This spring I priced out electric components for my M101A2, It was around $300 for new electric drum assemblies, full trailer wiring harness and breakaway kit with battery. I elected to fix my surge brakes for far less money, but it didn't seem like a difficult job to convert to electric. I would have lost the parking brakes, but I've lived without them on every other trailer I've ever owned.
 

mnichols567

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I'm new to steel soldier and I have been trying to find a solution to the braking problem as well. So for the best idea I have found is the surge actuator with the electric lock out. My only problem is trying to figure out how to drop the height of the hitch and still install the actuator in a proper fashion. I am towing it with my 02 F250 for my landscape company, so I don't want a hitch on the truck that sticks up 8 inches above the receiver. The over all plan is to make it a dump trailer with a dump trailer kit.
 
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