Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,892
- 7,555
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
The troubleshooting guide says it needs to be above 21v… have no idea if it will work below that…
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
M1078 100amp alternator charging issue
- Thread starter DiverDarrell
- Start date
- 538
- 849
- 93
- Location
- Texas Hill Country
DriverDarrell is the 2016 posts, are we wishing to rehash what was solved 8 years ago?
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,892
- 7,555
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
‘Those who do not learn from history are forever doomed to repeat it”
coachgeo
Well-known member
- 5,150
- 3,466
- 113
- Location
- North of Cincy OH
no,- reviewed the thread since it came back up.... sparked a hope that mayyyyyyyyybe by remote chance my charging failure is not a bad regulator after all. Hence the question
PS- .. tis actually considered good Netiquette TO NOT start new threads but instead ask in existing threads on the topic.... Especially when all one seeks is more refined info or clarity of things found there.
Last edited:
- 538
- 849
- 93
- Location
- Texas Hill Country
I agree with using related threads rather than starting anew. Will add that often folks, myself included, do not realize a thread is old and stale and direct questions toward those whom have long ago left. DriverDarrell was last seen in fall 2022. Hope springs eternal. He verified the voltages on each leg from the batteries? What are your legs telling you?
coachgeo
Well-known member
- 5,150
- 3,466
- 113
- Location
- North of Cincy OH
my right Achilles is telling me to stop tumbling. Ive given up on the alternator issue right now... I got to get to work and back and that exhaust me as it is.... so I just charge batts at home and then often again once I get to work.
- 285
- 588
- 93
- Location
- Portland, OR
If you pay the shipping round trip I’ll bench test your regulator for free, I have a spare alternator I can test it on, and I can load bank it.
coachgeo
Well-known member
- 5,150
- 3,466
- 113
- Location
- North of Cincy OH
Mighty kind of you..... but it's a 200amp alt that appears to have the bad regulator and not the 100
- 285
- 588
- 93
- Location
- Portland, OR
oh darn, I could test the whole alt for you but the shipping would be pretty spendy..
Have you tried wiring up a small set of batteries directly to the alternator? If you do this carefully it will completely rule out any faulty wiring or other issues in the truck.
coachgeo
Well-known member
- 5,150
- 3,466
- 113
- Location
- North of Cincy OH
been when weather allows.... concentrating on putting fresh engine in my daily driver. that put me in the truck as last resort.
PS- did get two 140amp 24v alts for half price of a Neihoff. Got to alter the LMTV mount to fit one.. which is back to an outside in the cold project issue and risking not getting done and no one to teach my class at YMCA (my job).
Getting old sucks.
Last edited:
SS WFO
New member
- 18
- 3
- 3
- Location
- washington nj
I start out with green lights and 28-29v/14-15v and after a few minuets running my gauge starts dipping and I start getting amber on 24 and red on 12 with24-25 and 12.6v. If I disconnect and reconnect power to alt I get power for a few seconds. Also I don't have a polarity protector.batterys are new
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,892
- 7,555
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
Well if you are sure of your connections between alt and battery(voltage drop test pass), and your excite voltage(forward screw terminal on alternator) is above 21V, then that sounds like a regulator issue…
SS WFO
New member
- 18
- 3
- 3
- Location
- washington nj
Having found the C E niehoff troubleshooting guide on line I see that a flashing red means over current. Im thinking Im thinking Igot something wired wrong where the polarity protector was. I think I got some 24 going to the 12
- 865
- 1,570
- 93
- Location
- Mesa Colorado
For the 100a/260a/300a dual voltage Neihoff, Flashing Red = Over voltage, either intermittent or steady, on either 28v or 14v side or both. Shutdown is at 32v on 28 side or 16v on 14 side. I went thru this whole annoying process on mine. Best to bench top test it like @Lostchain shows.
Ronmar
Well-known member
- 3,892
- 7,555
- 113
- Location
- Port angeles wa
Yep, flashing red is over-volt, solid red is locked out/disconnected due over-volt anything over 14.1/28.2 is not normal. This thing relies on proper connections to battery to operate correctly, which is why I mentioned a voltage drop test, which confirms this connection. You can achieve the same thing by voltage tests at alt and then immediately at battery. These voltages should always be within 3% of each other, the difference is the voltage lost thru cable/connection resistance…
in general over-voltage indicates to me a poor connection between alt and load/batteries, and the regulator is delivering minimum drive but the voltage cannot really go any lower… that or a failing regulator… so I always validate cables/connections because the alt/regulator performance can very easily be a case of garbage in = garbage out…
in general over-voltage indicates to me a poor connection between alt and load/batteries, and the regulator is delivering minimum drive but the voltage cannot really go any lower… that or a failing regulator… so I always validate cables/connections because the alt/regulator performance can very easily be a case of garbage in = garbage out…