Michael,
Best of luck and skill on the project. I have a 1079 about 90percent through to camper van.
I have some rambling comments about my experience from the past year of muddling through my project.
Again an M-1079, so some of the big stuff is already done. I like the box, since it is aluminum with about 4 inches of foam on all sides. Also the "dog houses" on the from are able to support considerable weight so my fresh water, water heater and pump are mounted up there.
Mine came direct from DLA in Barstow and had been at Ft Irwin. It had about 6800 miles when I got it and only real issue was batteries. All about 4 inches low on water so topped them off and didn't shut the truck off until I was in the storage lot in SD 4.5 hrs later.
Many little things like you are going through. Learn the Power Distribution Panel and wiring scheme. Weird things like the inst panel light fuse tripped will prevent the truck from starting. Only weird if you are not trying to soldier proof it so alarms will sound if there's no oil pressure, air pressure etc.
Download all 7 or so TM .PDFs - links are on the SS site. They are essential. Also if you aren't familiar with the technical scheme - there is the operator manual, the direct maintenance manuals and the in depth maintenance manuals.
I went through a registration agent for dealing with DMV stuff and got it reg'd as a motor home.
Insurance was a bit more challenging so went with commercial (painfully expensive) for one year and then once it was fully in the DMV system with VIN and all, got the RV insurance for $168/yr through Progressive.
I have camped in it a few times along the way in the past year since I acquired it. Most recently up near Julian, CA. Temps were in low 40s and the insulated box makes it tolerable with good bags.
I have a full size (6 cu ft) norcold fridge freezer salvaged cir 2007, atwood 3 burner stove/oven, dometic toilet and a bar sink.
I used pex for all of the water and soft copper with flares for the LP.
I used the CBRN sensor mount which was on top of the air cleaner to mount my 20# lp bottle.
The most recent trip required going across the hills East of San Diego twice and round trip of 236 miles yielded about 7.5 MPG. I don't push the speed much above 52. The stock tires are only rated at 55. I managed to get a set of 4 surplus NOS out of Sierra Army Depot (through GL) mounted on MRAP rims, which aren't compatible as I found out the hard way....Just got all four swapped a couple of weeks ago and feel much better after having two blow due to sever age-rot. All in all about $1600 with shipping for times and labor from heavy truck tire shop...Incidentally the Michelin dealer cannot sell them to non-DLA entities and they're $1850 ea for the rubber. Good news is that there are many sets out there on the disposal auction sites since the MRAPs aren't running into as many IEDs lately and shelf life is passing.
Leveling is a bit of a challenge, but my solution is a set of harbor freight hi-lift farm jacks on the rear mud flap bracket to take out the spring.
The air ride cab is wonderful. We ran down a wash board road/wash at 35 and really had no unpleasantness. I have not had any problems with CTIS which I have only really used about 3 times. I think the biggest issue is all of the rubber pieces being kept clean and solvent free. I have a small leak in a rim and CTIS fills it up to service pres in about 5 mins...so that is SOP until I get the o ring replaced.
If you need fuel tank brackets for mounting anything on the frame, let me know. I have 8 or 10 of them left over from a lot I bought to get a pair for gray water tank.
I salvaged the waste tanks off of an '86 Pace Arrow MH, learned how not to weld polypro and then developed a technique for welding polypro to move the fittings around. All in all probably save myself $500 or more with that. Machining skills are helpful. Also a rotozip is an amazing tool IF kept under control.
PM to about anything, any time. I am still learning, but you are in the right place for the LMTV support group. Lots of good gouge here.
Paul