Hello everyone, I’m new to the humvee world. I just picked up my first Humvee last week. The guy I got it from said he picked it up at auction with another one unseen and when he got them home one ran and he couldn’t get this one to turn over. I put batteries in it the batteries both say they’re charged and when I go to flip the switch to run the brake light flashes really fast and makes a quick sound and that’s it. I can’t get any lights I can’t get the motor to turn over I can’t get anything to do anything please help .
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M1097R1 No start
- Thread starter Sandog
- Start date
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- Papalote, TX
Start with the basics, download the TMs so you have a schematic, grab a volt meter and just start troubleshooting, if you do not have experience troubleshooting automotive electrical systems this is really not the one you want to learn on, you should get some help.
First thing is inspect all the wiring from the batteries to the dash panel, check/clean the grounds, behind the inst. panel, back of the engine and the cabling between the batteries and starter are a few places to look, you could have radio cables that are cut (just one example) and you need to secure/disconnect those first!
Disconnect the batteries any time you are working on the electrical system!
Be very careful 24V is a different animal than 12V a short on a 24V system can bring devastating results, wear your PPE while working in the battery compartment at a MIN.
A good inspection can often uncover many issues.
First thing is inspect all the wiring from the batteries to the dash panel, check/clean the grounds, behind the inst. panel, back of the engine and the cabling between the batteries and starter are a few places to look, you could have radio cables that are cut (just one example) and you need to secure/disconnect those first!
Disconnect the batteries any time you are working on the electrical system!
Be very careful 24V is a different animal than 12V a short on a 24V system can bring devastating results, wear your PPE while working in the battery compartment at a MIN.
A good inspection can often uncover many issues.
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Also are you sure you have the batteries connected correctly?
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Make sure the shifter is securely in "N" neutral. With the ignition switch turned to start and hold you can run the gears selector to hear it click making sure it isn't that issue. Secondly check if you hear a click from the starter. If not crawl under it and check all wires. Lastly hit the starter with hammer to get the bendix to reseat. GP tried to fire it up and it may have gotten stuck. I've had 2 units like this.
The were connected when I got it so I am just assuming so.
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Assume nothing, check everything!
Do you have a schematic on the correct way?
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Also do not just reverse them, that could be expensive.
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The shunt is mounted to the side of the battery box, it is connected to the negative terminal on the "lower" battery
If you have a 4 speed there will be a wire connected to the "center" connection between the lower and upper battery
Attachments
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- Evansville, IN
Assume makes an ASS out of U and ME...
and Im not an Ass,,,,
That would leave U...
Just saying
Sounds to me like you are the DICK!Assume makes an ASS out of U and ME...
and Im not an Ass,,,,
That would leave U...
Just saying
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this should end well…SMH
So I ask questions and get responses like this? Is that the kind of response you would want?
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The response was satire…the “assume” ass- you- me is an old saying for many years….so no, I’m not offended. And in retrospect, assuming something is correct is not how you verify something is correct, especially on an ex-military vehicle worked on by 18yr olds who can barley check the engine oil.
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It's not the question, it's how your attitude is coming across.
It was a very simple question, "Are the batteries hooked up properly"
You responded that you assume so.
As pointed out, you assume it's good, so that must not be the issue.
For those that have been on this site for years now, helping people fix issues exactly like the one you are having, when someone just makes assumptions about things being good, rather than actually checking to see if they are or not, it extremely frustrating. There are MANY threads on here started by new members such as yourself, where many pages of typing, and many hours of head scratching done, trying to figure out exactly what is going on. Many of those threads end up being something simple that was overlooked because someone "assumed" that something must be right, because that's how it was when they got it.
You are having an electrical issue.
All electricity is provided by the batteries.
If they are not hooked up properly (and there have been many times when they weren't) then nothing else will work.
So first step to working on a vehicle with complete electrical system malfunction is...
Verify that the batteries are connected properly.
Was the "ass-u-me" comment really necessary? Probably not, but it shows how much the members on here that do spend hours of their time trying to help people are tired and annoyed by people just making assumptions.
So now that that is out of the way, have you checked the battery connections and verified with a multimeter that you have 24VDC at the battery connections? If you aren't willing to go out and verify the batteries, then this thread is done and you will NOT be getting any other help on here.
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Call me Richard... Didn't someone recently shoot a person and "assumed" it was safe?
The minute I hear / read assumed... I stop and check it myself. Way to easy to get all sideways trying to developed a logical ending.
The idea here is to fix it. Poor responses with assumptions leads to poor outcomes.
Assume and I guess so... Same words in my world.
I got kids, CAMO
The minute I hear / read assumed... I stop and check it myself. Way to easy to get all sideways trying to developed a logical ending.
The idea here is to fix it. Poor responses with assumptions leads to poor outcomes.
Assume and I guess so... Same words in my world.
I got kids, CAMO
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- Evansville, IN
Sandog, no need to call me a D.. I get called that plenty anyway.. The ASSUME was a little satire.. Obviously you are offended by small jokes, must be a D thing. Anyway, we are all just here to help each other along.. Your gonna have to roll with the punches a little to get through it. I dont think we got all the info on your rig. by the way, before you started posting HELP MEs .. So lets get back to the basics and see how we can get your non-runner running.. Im guessing you checked out the TMs a little? And you're positive all your battery compartment wiring is in the correct orientation/position.. Looks like you've owned a M1070.. SO you should be familiar with most of this 24v stuff..
If it is a 3 speed, it has to be in neutral to start, so make sure you are in neutral. There is also a neutral safety switch which can go bad, so if you are certain that you are in neutral and get nothing, I would also check your neutral safety switch to be sure it is good. I would think there is a test procedure in the TMs for checking this switch, but I'm not certain. If not, you might need to swap the switch with a known good one to be certain. I do know this was an issue on someone else's nonstarter from the auctions. He swapped out the switch and the engine immediately started cranking over and it fired right up. A non-runner was nothing but a simple neutral safety switch failure.
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Checked the batteries and the have 24v and are Hooke up correctly. I get dash lights and now when I try to start I get a clicking noise coming from the started area. Doing this on my own at the moment so can’t crawl under and put eyes on anything and try to start it at the same time.
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Do the dash lights go out when you try to start it?, if you have something close in front of the truck turn on the head lights (if the batteries/battery connections are even good enough to burn the lights) , watch the reflected light and see if they go out when you try to start it.
Are these the original military batteries?
Are these the original military batteries?