M1102 Hand Brakes

[cucvrus]

I am new at modern military trailers and learning about the handbrake system. I have 3 of the M1102 trailers and each one has a unique issue with the handbrakes. Most problem I feel are due to lack of maintenance and someone used a vise grips in an attempt to adjust or tighten them. I have a few old trailer chassis that have the same type of brake levers. Are the M1102 brake levers anything special or do the old M101 trailers have the same levers. I do not have both beside each other for a comparison so I am asking before I tear into it. And if someone needed new levers where would they purchase the brake levers? Thank you in advance. I am correct in assuming the brake adjustment is achieved by turning the outer most knob on the brake lever?

 

[cucvrus]

OK. No help. I am going out with tools and a positive attitude. I will learn by doing. Best way. I have nothing to lose. I will report back with pictures.

 

[juanprado]

Correct, if the system is working properly, twisting the knob will tighten or loosen the cable as the parking brakes are manually set assuming all the components are working properly. They need to be lubed well and often neglected. Older ones used to have a zerk fitting.

I do not think the handles are the same for the m101 and m1101.

 

[Guyfang]

No. They are not the same. Two different NSN's, two different part numbers. Below listed firm provided the levers to the US gov for the M1101. They also provided the levers for the M101 trailers.

ORSCHELN PRODUCTS L.L.C.

 

[cucvrus]

I went out and removed the first brake lever and had it back in operational status in a few minutes. These pliers are for getting the sprag springs depressed closed so the lever can be removed. I only removed 1 lever and figured it out that I don't need to remove them to get them working. Rust and tan CARC paint were the problem. The CARC TAN was sprayed so heavily it had things bound up and the solvents in the paint and sealer flash corroded the surface and cleaned all the grease from the levers. They are as good as new. Not new but completely serviced, greased, oiled and adjusted. I packed a little grease into the slit where the adjustment screw threads are located. Live and Learn.

 

[cucvrus]

While I was out working and greasing all 6 of the hand brakes of the M1102 trailers and chassis I thought I would remove the hand brakes from another trailer I have sitting here and using parts from it. I was able to get both of these hand brakes from my trailer frame. I would like to trade the older style for 2 new ones to fit the M1102. Maybe if anyone is interested.

 

[Guyfang]

What I told the soldiers to do, is screw out the knob, all the way. Force some lubrication as far up inside of the assembly as possible. Then screw the knob in and out 2-4 times, to distribute the lube as well as possible. Do that every 6-8 months, and the rust will not form in the assembly.

The old style, with a lube nipple was very superier to these new types. Sometimes, the only thing to be done was to remove the assembly's, toss them in a tub of Evapo-rust and let them soak for a few days. Then clean them very well and lube as described as above.

This equipment is by and large, stored outside. No covers, So rust is the big enemy.

 

[cucvrus]

I was towing my M1102 trailer around loaded to the max with wood. It has a bounce at all speeds. It is equipped with the stock Goodyear 12 bolt run flats wheels. Any ideas? I am thinking it may be a balance issue. I am thinking of removing the run flats. Any ideas?

 

[Coug]

Depending on where you acquired it, the trailer might have sat for many years without moving, and the tires became out of round because of it.
New tires are always the best option.
Second option would be find someone that has a tire truing machine and get them shaved down to being round, then balanced.

Tire pressure on the trailer is supposed to be pretty low, stencil marks usually say 17psi, because it's supposed to only be 4200 lbs total fully loaded.
At that pressure you would probably be okay removing the runflat, but remember it also acts as a beadlock, so if tire pressure gets low for whatever reason, you have increased likelyhood of them coming off the rim.

As it appears you have CUCVs, why not replace the wheels on the trailer with a set from the CUCV and see how it does? I don't know what you are currently towing it with, but bolt pattern will be the same and it will tell you whether it's a wheel/tire issue or a suspension issue.

 

[cucvrus]

Maybe I should check the air pressure. It may be running on the run flats. Great Idea.