M1102

[Jkgts1]

Hello new here and just got an M1102 trailer. I’m looking at different ways to get it to sit level with my truck. I’ve swapped out wheels and tires already and it helped, but still tall. I also saw a post on cutting out the spacer between the suspension and frame. Don’t want to do this yet. I have one of those Pintle plates with a bunch of holes on the truck. It’s flipped upside down in an effort to level everything. I just don’t feel this is the best way to use it, even though the manufacturer says it can be used upside down. Also my tailgate hits the hitch in the current position if I lower it.
I saw that they make adjustable lunette Rings. Has anyone changed their lunette to one of these adjustable ones with the multiple holes. I guess there are 2 options, weld this adjuster plate to the trailer or maybe swapping out one that is already welded. I know nothing about surge brakes so I’m not sure if you can even change this piece out or if you need to buy a whole new surge brake unit. Any thoughts?

 

[Jkgts1]

H
Something like this. Has anyone used these before?

 

[Zed254]

Here's the hitch manual....

 

[tobyS]

I lengthened mine out and use a ball. Also put a bolt in to stop the plunger and lock out the brakes. The plunger is cast steel, so can be welded.

 

[juanprado]

If that spacer is rivited in, you will have a major job if you go in that direction. Those rivets used on the frame/body of the m1101 are a pia....

 

[tobyS]

If you make a change like mine, the heat from welding on one side will cause it to make a C shape, not stay straight. This affects putting in a ball or ring unit. I cut one bolt hole off and is not so obvious like 6 hole was. I used a 4 1/2" cut off wheel to cut the ring off the plunger.

Take your brake unit entirely apart and check for bent metal mount bracket for the master cylinder. Straighten it. They get very loose and perform much better if the trailer cannot move far before actuation. Most have bent insides from hard breaking if the trailer has been used.

 

[Jkgts1]

Here's the hitch manual....

Thanks a bunch I’ll take a look at it

 

[Jkgts1]

I lengthened mine out and use a ball. Also put a bolt in to stop the plunger and lock out the brakes. The plunger is cast steel, so can be welded.

So did you disable the brakes? I wanted to keep mine functional, but have that exact coupler you have.

 

[tobyS]

The brakes will function normally when I remove the bolt that I installed. I have not remade the brake line yet and I don't want the movement with a dry MC. So no brakes. But it's my weldtrailer and not complete to dot.....yet.

 

[Jkgts1]

The brakes will function normally when I remove the bolt that I installed. I have not remade the brake line yet and I don't want the movement with a dry MC. So no brakes. But it's my weldtrailer and not complete to dot.....yet.

Oh I see. Good lookin trailer.

 

[Jkgts1]

So the manual Zed posted says it’s a Titan model 6, if this is so I found a inner sleeve on Etrailer that fits my needs. Hope it fits. Are there any concerns that these are not Titan model 6 actuators?

 

[tobyS]

Thanks...there was not a corner that hadn't been beat up. It did clean up nice. top and sides get steel. I don't know the make of the actuator, Titan may be right.

 

[Jkgts1]

I hope so, I tried emailing the manufacturer of the trailer to see if they would tell me, but still waiting for the reply. Then I was going to email Etrailer.com, but couldn’t find a contact number or email address on their website hahaha. I guess they don’t want to talk to me.

 

[Zed254]

Read the TM: TM 9-2330-392-14&P

Follow the parts trail down the rabbit hole until you find something that matches the Titan manual. Use this website for checking out NSN and manufacturer's part numbers: https://www.parttarget.com/2530-01-...choption=nsn&originalsearchtext=2530011210786

Titan and Dico combined into 1 company so part numbers are kind of blended. It looks like Schutt and Silver Eagle are listed as the manufacturer of the hydraulic brake systems of their trailers. I saw Raytheon listed Dico as a supplier for the lunette ring (Coupler, Drawbar) for one of their trailers and the Titan manual's part numbers started showing up. Enjoy the research.....

 

[Jkgts1]

Haha so after I ordered the part form etrailer that’s for a Titan model 6, I got an email from Schutt saying they use Dexter surge brake components. They look very similar. I won’t know till I have both stock piece and new one side by side to tell if it will work. In the end, if it doesn’t fit, I think I can just get a piece of steel tube that matches the inner sliding sleeve and make the appropriate holes and channels and make my own. We will see.

 

[Zed254]

You may be OK: https://www.dexteraxle.com/about-de...n-international-s-brake-and-actuator-business

 

[Jkgts1]

You may be OK: https://www.dexteraxle.com/about-de...n-international-s-brake-and-actuator-business

Cool thanks

 

[Jkgts1]

So the part that I ordered from etrailer.com took way too long to come in. I got impatient haha. I just made my own. Sounds easy but not really. The tube size is 3" x 2.5" external dimensions. Side wall is about 3/8" thick and top and bottom wall thickness is about 1/4". So, as you can see not easy to find, actually impossible. All these dimensions matter if you want to retain the surge brakes. What I did was get 3"x3", 3/8" wall square tube, cut one side off so it is 2.5" tall and welded it back. The problem now was that the steel wheels that ride in the tube will not fit because my tube is 3/8" thick all the way around. Sorry if this seems confusing, but if any of you have taken this apart, you know what I am talking about. Anyway I just had a machinist turn down the steel wheels so they will fit into the tube. Then welded the adjustable channel to the tube and it was done. I have since towed it on a camping trip with no problems. Wish i knew how to post pics haha.

 

[Jkgts1]

On a different note. Has anyone installed L-track on their trailer for tie down points. I dont really like the 1' strap hoops on the outside of the trailer sides. Some of mine are loose and missing. I bought 2 6' L-track strips to install on the top side walls or maybe on the inside. Im a little worried about using blind rivet nuts for the track. The bolts for the track is 1/4-20 and afraid the might rip out easy. Any ideas?