M1123 brakes

[FMFHMMWV]

Home made mmwv brake tool.

 

[Mogman]

Home made mmwv brake tool.

Let me see, if I go down to the auto parts store and ask for a $28 tool they will know what I am talking about, yes??
You give no actual information about the tool... Or the part number for the brake line

 

[87cr250r]

A word of warning. DO NOT use stainless steel brake line components if you expect any salt exposure. This is not just road salt but coastal environments as well. The wire in the braid is cold drawn which makes it especially susceptible to stress corrosion cracking. The crimp ferrule and overlapping wires set up an environment that promotes crevice corrosion.

 

[FMFHMMWV]

Here's what the new one looks like

steel hmmwv braided lie

youtube.com

 

[FMFHMMWV]

Pressure tested to 10k psi. Made in America. Most of all DOT approved. 20 degree bed at banjo bolt at the caliper to provide most clearance to the cv axles. Steel braided and sheathed in clear silicone.

 

[87cr250r]

That works. I see that the fittings and ends are not stainless steel. As long as the braided section is protected it will work.

 

[FMFHMMWV]

Thr fittings are not stainless for the corrosion concern. The braided section has a sealed exterior coat to shield from corrosion.

 

[FMFHMMWV]

The rears are easier to get to but you need a special tool to retract the pistons. Only other way is to remove the calipers completely and retract them with channel locks in a vise.

Don’t take the rear apart until you’ve got a plan to retract the pistons. Here’s the tool I used

Rear Brake Caliper Compression Tool

Essential tool for changing rear brake pads. The rear brake on the Hummer / H1 must be alternately turned and compressed to release the parking brake and collapse the piston.…

modmafia.com

I don’t recall if I was able to do the fronts without dropping the half shafts, though it’s not that hard and nord lock washers are cheap from HPG.

I only needed to drink the shafts in the front. I also made my own tool that costed me was less. Worked like a charm. Shaved the pins down to fit.

 

[jake20]

I only needed to drink the shafts in the front. I also made my own tool that costed me was less. Worked like a charm. Shaved the pins down to fit.

That definitely works too lol

I didn’t want to remove the calipers and bleed the system again. I put fresh fluid in a few months back. That tool really makes the rear pad job a breeze and quick.

I don’t even remove the undercarriage protection bars. Just the parking brake cable clips and 2 caliper bolts.

 

[FMFHMMWV]

That definitely works too lol

I didn’t want to remove the calipers and bleed the system again. I put fresh fluid in a few months back. That tool really makes the rear pad job a breeze and quick.

I don’t even remove the undercarriage protection bars. Just the parking brake cable clips and 2 caliper bolts.

I didn't remove the undercarriage braces as well but removed the calipers and broke the driver side hard line. This caused me to just eff it and replace them with steel braided so I can remove the caliper and not have to breed in the future. The caliper can dangle by the steel braided line just fine without risk of breaking unlike the oem lines

 

[juanprado]

That is a great tip on the tool!

Thanks for sharing.

 

[FMFHMMWV]

That is a great tip on the tool!

Thanks for sharing.

Thank you! Takes some he man to turn the tool and push downward but it's not too bad. Performance tool 2 3/4 axle too. Got it at the napa

 

[Vapor Trail]

How much were those braided lines and where can I get them?

 

[FMFHMMWV]

How much were those braided lines and where can I get them?

I had them custom made with the fittings I wanted and measurements. Costed 200 but well worth it considering they're much more reliable and converts the caliper connection with a banjo bolt connector. I also plan on wrapping it with spiral tube protector to keep the silicone cover and steel braided pretty

 

[TNDRIVER]

I had them custom made with the fittings I wanted and measurements. Costed 200 but well worth it considering they're much more reliable and converts the caliper connection with a banjo bolt connector. I also plan on wrapping it with spiral tube protector to keep the silicone cover and steel braided pretty

A little splanin on the custom made thing please. Who, What pieces, Where......... Thanks

 

[FMFHMMWV]

Who: I went to a local shop that does custom brake lines and provided the specs on what I wanted. the beta models have worked extremely well and allow me to hang the calipers just by the steel braided lines. solid thangs.

What pieces: there is an AN fitting that connects to the splitter in the rear. I used an adapter on both sides of the splitter to attach the oe style fittings back onto the splitter. the fitting attached to the caliper has been changed to a banjo bolt style attachment, allowing for a delete of an additional fitting as seen in the stock line. (line into adapter into caliper) I used copper crush washers to form a solid seal. the steel braided lines have a pft coating inside with the steel braid being the next layer and another silicone abrasion resistant coating being the third and outermost layer allowing for corrosion resistance and abrasion resistance.

Where: I am located in Oceanside CA. If anyone wants a set, you can PM me.

The idea came after I saw a friend's post about the stock line getting eaten up by the cv shaft and they lost brakes. kinda scary. then It can time to do my own pads. in doing so, I found how it was to manipulate the hard lines after slightly bending them (and breaking them) so that the fittings aligned with the hole on the caliper and I can meet the threads up. not to mention, after studying the stock brake line, we can see several failure points and a soft line prone to drying up and cracking and even expanding under pressure which gives the brake pedal a spongy feel. Now my lines are solid and this thing brakes like a bmw m5 lol.

I want to apologize fo the delay in posting. I am a registered nurse and Im in school for my doctorate as a nurse practitioner, so I am very preoccupied with studies and work. Good ole gi bill at work lol.

 

[FMFHMMWV]

also in regards to what pieces, the banjo bolt at the caliper has a 20 degree fitting which allows us to angle the line away from the cv axle and keep it away. this makes it safer to run these lines as opposed to having a bunch of non steel braided line that hovers right above and around the cv axle (just an inch or two). you can see on the video how the 20 degree banjo bolt fitting provides maximal distance from the cv axle while still clearing the caliper. I have 200 miles on them and they are solid. Maybe still to early to tell but Ill be beating the (heck) out of this truck all summer after the three inch body lift.

 

[TNDRIVER]

Who: I went to a local shop that does custom brake lines and provided the specs on what I wanted. the beta models have worked extremely well and allow me to hang the calipers just by the steel braided lines. solid thangs.

What pieces: there is an AN fitting that connects to the splitter in the rear. I used an adapter on both sides of the splitter to attach the oe style fittings back onto the splitter. the fitting attached to the caliper has been changed to a banjo bolt style attachment, allowing for a delete of an additional fitting as seen in the stock line. (line into adapter into caliper) I used copper crush washers to form a solid seal. the steel braided lines have a pft coating inside with the steel braid being the next layer and another silicone abrasion resistant coating being the third and outermost layer allowing for corrosion resistance and abrasion resistance.

Where: I am located in Oceanside CA. If anyone wants a set, you can PM me.

The idea came after I saw a friend's post about the stock line getting eaten up by the cv shaft and they lost brakes. kinda scary. then It can time to do my own pads. in doing so, I found how it was to manipulate the hard lines after slightly bending them (and breaking them) so that the fittings aligned with the hole on the caliper and I can meet the threads up. not to mention, after studying the stock brake line, we can see several failure points and a soft line prone to drying up and cracking and even expanding under pressure which gives the brake pedal a spongy feel. Now my lines are solid and this thing brakes like a bmw m5 lol.

I want to apologize fo the delay in posting. I am a registered nurse and Im in school for my doctorate as a nurse practitioner, so I am very preoccupied with studies and work. Good ole gi bill at work lol.

THANK YOU, I usually don't like changing much on the truck but I think you have found an item to improve on THANKS again.

 

[FMFHMMWV]

THANK YOU, I usually don't like changing much on the truck but I think you have found an item to improve on THANKS again.

I think what sparked the idea was someone's post on here where their brakes lost power and it was because the line drooped down onto the cv axle and got chewed up. kind of scared the beans out of me. Then it came time to do my own pads and it was difficult to refeed the fittings onto the caliper after the hard line was slightly bent.

 

[FMFHMMWV]

Let me see, if I go down to the auto parts store and ask for a $28 tool they will know what I am talking about, yes??
You give no actual information about the tool... Or the part number for the brake line

1. This is the link to the tool: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-...cphy=9061195&hvtargid=pla-1744303053308&psc=1

2. The brake line doe not have a part number because it is custom and built to spec.