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Any standard 2 1/16" gauge should work
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M1165
- Thread starter Maxjeep1
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I’m sorry but in my experience that is not true. Both are balanced together, as a unit.
I just want him to have a reliable truck.
He should remove the cartridge and bring it to a turbo shop for balancing. He can mail it out to a shop too.
That unit needs balancing.
Even when you rebuild a turbo, you need to carefully mark the exhaust and intake blades relative to each other for reassembly to maintain balance.
Not trying to rain on a parade here. I’m trying to ensure a fellow member gets a good result that will last.
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They can’t be balanced as a unit because the wheel spins on the shaft and if it was not phased right it would be out of balance. Manufacturer says that wheel is balanced and doesn’t require balancing. Time will tell but I appreciate you looking out for me…. From the manufacturer
It is a left-hand thread (reverse thread), meaning you turn the nut to the right to loosen. The Wicked Wheel is balanced at the Factory. Turbo balancing after installation is not necessary. While capable of high boost numbers with supporting mods these wheels are safe for stock turbo applications!
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I had the valley dry enough to start thinking about cleaning it up and then we get monsoon rain here and my valley was filled up to the top of the oil pressure line. I drained all of the water out with my 300cc Amazon syringe “ very useful tool “ I think I did it 4 times.
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You have the twin to my truck if I remember correctly? How’s snake bit doing? I don’t see very many trucks like ours. We get the ac and turbo without the holes in the body… I’m really happy with mine. I have never liked a truck that doesn’t run this much! Hahaha something’s wrong with me…
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My truck is at my buddy’s place in Cali. My plan is to fix it, and leave it there for monthly 4WD adventures. He is always out and about in Death Valley and such. Then he sends all of us images of where he has been. I got smart and decided that life is short and I should start living it up.
I’ll attach a few of his images below.
His rig is a M998 that he restored and converted to 12V. He still has the original 7K axles, for over 100k miles. He beats them up weekly and non-stop, and they take the abuse. When people say you need to upgrade the half-shafts. I take it with a grain of salt.
His name is Eric.
I’ll attach a few of his images below.
His rig is a M998 that he restored and converted to 12V. He still has the original 7K axles, for over 100k miles. He beats them up weekly and non-stop, and they take the abuse. When people say you need to upgrade the half-shafts. I take it with a grain of salt.
His name is Eric.
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That’s awesome! I’m not far from there. Keep me in mind for upcoming adventures! I don’t have anyone to go out with yet. I get everything done and I will probably look for a Hummer/Humvee club here. I would even be willing to go with Jeeps if it comes to that. Hahaha. Life is short and we work our whole lives for what? House that we will never own, send kids to college that don’t really appreciate you yet. I’m ready to live for myself with what little life I have left. You get to be my age and you don’t even buy green bananas
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I received my 10-24 die and my ultra copper rtv or whatever it’s called. Finished up the waste gate after a trip to Ace Hardware for a few nuts and washers. I’m really happy with how it turned out and I really appreciate Mogman’s idea. I have another problem that I’m gonna have to think about for a minute. I was putting the aluminum snail on and I top bolt will only get snug and it’s stripped. I have a few options. I can order a new housing or get a larger bolt and tap it a size bigger.
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you could helicoil the hole and go back with the standard bolt.
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Get a helicoil kit and fix it
EDIT, sorry pushed the button a couple seconds late!!
EDIT, sorry pushed the button a couple seconds late!!
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I think that’s a great idea. I will take the bolt out and go get one
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I’m kinda lost right now. I took housing apart and cleaned the rtv off and I didn’t think I put enough but it was flowed out really nice and everything was covered perfect. I checked all of the holes and I did the problem one first and bolt went in and torqued down. I checked all of them because I thought maybe I got the bad mixed up. They are all good and maybe because bolt went in further because I didn’t have the thickness of the pedestal and it got to good threads… I don’t know
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Yes without the pedestal the bolts will go in farther and will likely "take hold", take a close look and the damaged threads should be obvious, unless you gave up before the bolt was all the way in before, caution very little sealer is needed.
Try re-assembling it again without sealer, then if all goes well take it apart and seal it when you re-assemble it again, patience is a BIG virtue here.
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I was thinking about getting a longer bolt? Maybe just the thickness of the pedestal. It’s the top bolt and I don’t think it would hurt to be in a little further. Those were all really tight when I took them out.
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Does it look like I have enough meat to get helicoil installed? Hole is really close to the edge
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You can certainly try. if you feel it gets tight enough then it probably will work.
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I went to McFadendales hardware store and if they don’t have it there’s a really good chance they don’t make it. You will pay a premium for the store that has everything.. lol they are local business and I don’t mind paying a little more for a big inventory and helpful staff. I got a couple of M6x18 bolts and they were about the pedestal flange thickness longer. I got a m6 helicoil kit and a m6 tap to clean up the other holes. I didn’t use the helicoil kit because it looked like I would be really close to the edge of the housing. I ran the tap in all the holes and I ran it a little deeper in my problem hole. I threaded my longer bolt into problem hole and it was good to go. I cleaned up the flange and put a 1/16 bead of RTV and assembled it. Everything torqued down really good. I watched just a bit of copper color showing all around the edge so I feel comfortable that I got the right amount and less is more when you are applying it. I ended up with an Allen head bolt and I had to put it in with my eyes closed so it didn’t trigger my OCD…. Haha it’s bothering me now just thinking about it. I don’t think I will have any issues and I can move forward now. I got email from HPG and it said that my injection pump has shipped along with my free inlet gasket and I got a tracking number. I have so much work to do before I’m ready to install it. I want to finish draining the fuel tank and put some fresh fuel in it and get it up to the filter and change the filter and separator. I need to clean up valley and remove intake, fuel lines and clean and paint valley. I don’t think I have the drain in my block. I will take a look once I get it cleaned out. I’m thinking about taking the plug out and water can drain and run out of the torque converter cover. I don’t want water standing in the valley and messing up my injection pump.
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That is a piss poor design IMHO and then for the re-builders to plug it is absurd. If the vehicle must sit outside you may want to put some of the OCD to work on sealing the hood to the cowling to help keep the water out. otherwise the occasional filling of the valley is no big deal if it is being run and driven as it will somewhat slosh out and evaporate from the heat.
I would guess it stems from some moron thinking they could actually seal the bell housing (to protect the starter) so they needed some way to get the water past the bell housing area, let it drain into the bell housing and make sure it can get out.
I would guess it stems from some moron thinking they could actually seal the bell housing (to protect the starter) so they needed some way to get the water past the bell housing area, let it drain into the bell housing and make sure it can get out.
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And when it does not drain out and collects to the front... Rusts out your injector pump advance piston lever and who wants that?
Seen time and time again right here on channel SS, CAMO
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Seems like if you went through 60” of water that valley could be filled to the top and no path to escape but over the turbo pedestal. I don’t think that’s good that they remove the tube. You have to pull transmission to install it. Hopefully I will never need to but if so I will install it. I will let it drain thru the bell housing.