• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M1165A1 Blower wont turn on - heat or a/c

tgejesse

Well-known member
276
288
63
Location
Maryland
I've been messing with my truck for the past few hours and I cannot figure out for the life of me why my heat/ac blower wont kick on.

I have bypassed the thermostat, but not getting any voltage at it.

There are 3 fuse boxes behind the batter box, only 2 have fuses - tried switching those around - no luck either.

There is a birds nest of 8 capped off wires that I cannot identify their purpose.

Electrical gods, please help lol
 

Attachments

Mogman

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,931
9,589
113
Location
Papalote, TX
What model/ser# truck do you have, this will help folks guide you to the correct information.
 

HoveringHMMWV

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
481
1,112
93
Location
AL
I have a similar truck with those fuses too. But they were cut during demil and are not needed for a/c or heat. Those were probably used for systems that were removed during demil (heated windshield, turret power, etc...). As for the capped off wires, posting the tag numbers (metal crimpted thingies near the end) would be extremely helpful. The complete vehicle wiring diagrams are in the last pages of the maintenance TM ###-24-2. I'll attach a comprehensive wiring number list if I can find it.
 
Last edited:

tgejesse

Well-known member
276
288
63
Location
Maryland
I have a similar truck with those fuses too. But they were cut during demil and are not needed for a/c or heat. Those were probably used for systems that were removed during demil (heated windshield, turret power, etc...). As for the capped off wires, posting the tag numbers (metal crimpted thingies near the end) would be extremely helpful. The complete vehicle wiring diagrams are in the last pages of the maintenance TM ###-24-2. I'll attach a comprehensive wiring number list if I can find it.
Thank you!

Also where is @Retiredwarhorses when ya need him?! haha send help
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,400
4,182
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
Everything seems kosher back here too

I just confirmed that I have 24v at 400D so I'm assuming I have a bad blower motor..... but the rear evap unit isnt blowing either.
have you verified the circuit breakers are still in the truck? I had a truck where they were pilfered.
they are in the battery box rear wall, there are 2 Klixon breakers on a bracket…
 

Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,975
4,356
113
Location
Olympia/WA
I have not, what would that procedure look like?
Also isn’t 24v at the blower motor and it not running a tell-tail sign that it’s a bad blower motor at a minimum?
Not sure the specifics of how it's wired, but I assume the motor has 2 connections; one for power in and the other ground.

If you have 24V at the motor, and then have continuity from the other side of the motor to ground, it's likely a bad motor.
Of course you can check to see if the motor itself has continuity. No idea what the resistance is supposed to be, but it shouldn't be very high.

The motor could be good, and just a bad ground wire and give you the same results as a bad motor if you don't check.
 

tgejesse

Well-known member
276
288
63
Location
Maryland
Not sure the specifics of how it's wired, but I assume the motor has 2 connections; one for power in and the other ground.

If you have 24V at the motor, and then have continuity from the other side of the motor to ground, it's likely a bad motor.
Of course you can check to see if the motor itself has continuity. No idea what the resistance is supposed to be, but it shouldn't be very high.

The motor could be good, and just a bad ground wire and give you the same results as a bad motor if you don't check.
Update - the entire ac system is seized up. The motor was totally shot, and so are the condenser units.

Sad time to be me.
 

tgejesse

Well-known member
276
288
63
Location
Maryland
Here is the wiring diagram I've been using.

View attachment 906968
Additional thought exercise here to ensure I don't have other issues at play.

I am trying to get the rear evap assembly to kick on - and if I'm reading the diagram correctly if I bypass high pressure switch and ac compressor by connecting 436B directly into 7J - it should kick on, but it does not.

This made me start digging a little farther to see if I was getting any voltage at 236B, and nothing! I checked 720A to ensure I am getting 24V and I am into the rear evap assembly and it is.

Is 416D out of the evap part of the circuit to kick on the assembly in any way? Or is it safe to assume that if I have 24v in at 720A and nothing out at 436 B, the rear evap assembly is shot too?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks