M127A1C/ M197A1 Camper conversion

[Bighurt]

I really wished I had used the 11 ton ammunition trailer the M???.

M989 HEMAT Trailer

I've seen them for around $2500 in these parts, not on GL!

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

M989 HEMAT Trailer

I've seen them for around $2500 in these parts, not on GL!

The M989's pop up on GL randomly, just not every week.

I'd wondered how practical an RV foundation one might be. The low center and raised ends could have "split-level" housing possiblities.

Hmmmm

 

[Bighurt]

The M989's pop up on GL randomly, just not every week.

I meant that they are available from a venue other than GL. And yes they have been popping up every so often on GL.

 

[GHILL55]

I was looking at them form Rancher's Supply in Colorado, they always seem to have a few in stock and they seem to pop up on the GL website every once in awhile. I figured to split the bottom cargo into 4 large compartments then deck it over to match the front and rear deck heights. An 8' tall structure would still only be about 12' in overall height. I like the low center of gravity but wonder about clearance issues off road travel/camping.

 

[GHILL55]

Project update:
Framed up the roof joists and put up the primary roof sections. The center section is 12' 6" in length and because of the weight factor (IE: how much I can lift) I'm building the center section in stages. The outside is now completely sheeted in 3/8" CDX. This wknd I'll finish the building the roof and sheet it and install the stove jack so I can have some heat to work by.
Snowline is down to 5000', Winter's a commin' mighty quick!

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

Project update:
Framed up the roof joists and put up the primary roof sections. The center section is 12' 6" in length and because of the weight factor (IE: how much I can lift) I'm building the center section in stages. The outside is now completely sheeted in 3/8" CDX. This wknd I'll finish the building the roof and sheet it and install the stove jack so I can have some heat to work by.
Snowline is down to 5000', Winter's a commin' mighty quick!

Hey!!!

I've seen that design somewhere before.....

.... You're copying

 

[sierra117]

Make sure you keep that fifth wheel plate greased you don't want the fifth wheel to lock up to the trailer when trying to turn. That certainly would not be fun.

 

[Dave08]

Outstanding job! Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming! Best to get it buttoned up prior to the winter rains/snow. No luck so far on the M197A1 or M198A1 dolly yet.

Dave08

 

[indy4x4fab]

Project update:
Framed up the roof joists and put up the primary roof sections. The center section is 12' 6" in length and because of the weight factor (IE: how much I can lift) I'm building the center section in stages. The outside is now completely sheeted in 3/8" CDX. This wknd I'll finish the building the roof and sheet it and install the stove jack so I can have some heat to work by.
Snowline is down to 5000', Winter's a commin' mighty quick!

I like it, I have thought about doing the same thing but, I have concerns with the winds at high way speeds ripping the hole thing apart.

 

[GHILL55]

Life at 45mph isn't hard on "funky builds". I lived in an old scholl bus conversion for 10 yrs back in the late 70s thru the 80s while working in the woods and traveled with a lot of folks who built their homes on the back of old trucks. Think Gypsy Wagons, you would be amazed at what survived the harsh mountain roads and held together great. The key is flexibility and only using screws for fasteners (nails back out, loosen up). This conversion is just an overgrown sheepherder wagon on steroids, kinda.

 

[greg burns]

Another Trailer

At the framing stage your new project bears a resemblance to another kind of wagon. Selling advertising might help defray expenses.

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

At the framing stage your new project bears a resemblance to another kind of wagon. Selling advertising might help defray expenses.

Those WHEELS would look FANTASTIC on an MV

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[GHILL55]

Ok, the roof is finally on and all seams caulked. tomorrow the stove jack goes in and the roofing paper goes down. I still need to build the skylights this wknd and install them. Today was 40 degrees with a 20 - 25 mph wind gusting to 35 mph. I'm still thawing out.
I still haven't decided on the finished roof, but I'm looking into steel sheets or the local RV mfg can roll out a seamless roof for the big bucks.
Can't wait to finally start on the interior wiring, insulation and sheeting!
Would've been a whole lot easier to start with the cargo box trailer, but not as fun!

 

[rogersn67]

Nice job on the framing. You might want to consider letting in a couple of 2 x 4's on an angle in the walls, it will stiffen the rig substantially laterally. What did you use for the skylights? are they store bought units?

 

[GHILL55]

I plan on using 3/8 CDX over the interior insulation to stiffen the structure, that will be covered by paneling &/or T&G cedar.
The skylights I'm fabbing up myself, I'll post pics as they are built and installed.
Also the exterior CDX will be covered with t-111 siding, stained and sealed.
Oh yea, so far I've used 12lbs of screws, it better stay together.

 

[Danger Ranger]

I would not use T-111. Our house (parts of it) is covered in it, and it will rot, stain, and look dirty all the time. In my opinion it is crap. A trailer that nice deserves something better.

 

[GHILL55]

T-111 is a generic term for rough cut 4x8cdx plywood that has dadoo cuts to simulate planks.
In the south and mid-west most T-111 is plantation pine. Here in the NW it's usually doug fir - much better than sapwood pine for longevity. Current code also calls for a minimum ground clearance of 12"-18", to minimize rotting issues, at 61" of ground clearance I think I'm safe.
I plan on mixing 2 gallons of stain with 1 gallon of linseed oil and roll and spray it till it won't absorb any more sealant. Also it will probably have to be touched up yrly.
While not the best solution, it is cost effective. I'm disabled and on fixed income, I can only do what I can afford. 1 day of work costs me 2 days in bed, that's why this project is taking soooooo long. The staining and sealing will have to wait till spring weather, it's noon - 33 degrees and last night's snow is still on the ground.

 

[Bighurt]

T-111 is a generic term for rough cut 4x8cdx plywood that has dadoo cuts to simulate planks.
In the south and mid-west most T-111 is plantation pine. Here in the NW it's usually doug fir - much better than sapwood pine for longevity. Current code also calls for a minimum ground clearance of 12"-18", to minimize rotting issues, at 61" of ground clearance I think I'm safe.
I plan on mixing 2 gallons of stain with 1 gallon of linseed oil and roll and spray it till it won't absorb any more sealant. Also it will probably have to be touched up yrly.
While not the best solution, it is cost effective. I'm disabled and on fixed income, I can only do what I can afford. 1 day of work costs me 2 days in bed, that's why this project is taking soooooo long. The staining and sealing will have to wait till spring weather, it's noon - 33 degrees and last night's snow is still on the ground.

May not work for your application but I've found LP's Smartside is a far supieror product than any ply siding, I've used. Bead board being the exception.

 

[SFGABN@5th]

I did a log caben one time and we ran all the ducting plumbing and electrical in a hollow floor area. Just a thought.

Kevin

 

[GHILL55]

I've never heard of LP's Smartside but I'll check into it. ALL suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Pics of electrical coming soon.