DUUANE
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Always happy to make new friends..work is work..LETS TALK MILITARY TRUCKS!! hahaha
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M135 M211 2 speed transfer case mod
- Thread starter DUUANE
- Start date
rustystud
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True work is work, but sometimes some peoples work is pretty cool too !
We will of course talk Military Trucks too.
Duuane, very interesting. And now (after some googling) I have a vague understanding of a Pilgrim nut. I'd love to take a tour of shops that do work like that. Perhaps that's the key to the success of YouTube stuff. It's a shame there's relatively little old "steel soldier" stuff on youtube.
And thanks again for your documentation of the "low range" mod. You're leaving a nice blazed trail.
And thanks again for your documentation of the "low range" mod. You're leaving a nice blazed trail.
DUUANE
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Well hopefully ill have some time to get the case modifications and new cover made..
I also need a part number for the upper output shaft bearing( the one with the brake on it) mine is a little crunchy and id like to replace it before it goes back together.
I also need a part number for the upper output shaft bearing( the one with the brake on it) mine is a little crunchy and id like to replace it before it goes back together.
DUUANE
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The holdup..
Just thought id share whats been the major delay in moving forward with the tcase project.
I spoke with bret or brent at Boyce about an output bearing and am waiting for a reply.
The earthworks here should be done tomorrow, and i'm lining up some logging for the lower portion of the property..once thats all said and done im going straight to the shop and not sleep till Aug 25th so stay tuned.
Just thought id share whats been the major delay in moving forward with the tcase project.
I spoke with bret or brent at Boyce about an output bearing and am waiting for a reply.
The earthworks here should be done tomorrow, and i'm lining up some logging for the lower portion of the property..once thats all said and done im going straight to the shop and not sleep till Aug 25th so stay tuned.
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rustystud
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Is that going to be your new home or shop site ? Having done that here to get ready for the shop, I have a pretty good idea how much you had to pay to get that done. Unless you did it yourself.
DUUANE
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Yep thats where the new house and shop will be..well the house for sure..if i can swing it the shop may go down the hill a bit..option 3 would be a smaller shop up by the house and a bigger deal down the hill. With the ammount of snow we get and the overall grade of the land it may shut the lower site down in winter so ill have to think on it more. I'd certainly be able to cross country ski down..but whatever was in/out would be there till the melt.
There is a pretty good stand of cedar down the bottom..im hoping the logging will put some cash back in the militaria fund so i can get back to being the friendly neighbourhood collector of things geen and rare that i am
Speaking of collecting..i've had a secret desire for a burma jeep..i've kept it to myself for a few years now but i've said it out loud so..its probably gonna happen..hahaha please dont tell the Mrs. I think it would make a great plow/ site beast..especially with the bomb arch.
There is a pretty good stand of cedar down the bottom..im hoping the logging will put some cash back in the militaria fund so i can get back to being the friendly neighbourhood collector of things geen and rare that i am
Speaking of collecting..i've had a secret desire for a burma jeep..i've kept it to myself for a few years now but i've said it out loud so..its probably gonna happen..hahaha please dont tell the Mrs. I think it would make a great plow/ site beast..especially with the bomb arch.
rustystud
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Burma jeeps are pretty rare. Do you have one on your "radar" now ?
DUUANE
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I saw one on the spokane cl not too long ago..it was listed as a dodge power wagon, no arch and someone had moved the winch to behind the cab and fabbed a farm long reach setup..but it was complete otherwise..think it was listed at $400..i was too jammed up with work to go and snag it..never got a phone number unfortunately so it slipped through the cracks.
DUUANE
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Modifying the case
Ok so here is the point of no return..modifying the case for the new gear.
The new gear sits about 3/4" to the right(rear) of the case when youre looking into the pto opening so some material has to be removed from the case to make it all happen.
In the second pic you can see the layout of what im starting with for a relief. The existing hole for the cover is a little more than 3/4" east of the opening but hey..its already there and has a nice radius so i just made my cuts to take advantage of it. The third pic shows the inside of the cover with the bump out..it will have to change locations when i make the new cover so this should give you an idea of what needs to happen there. Also in the first pic you can see there is an angle chamfered into the upper part of the existing opening. Afer the basic cut was made i massaged the nub left with a die grinder to match the chamfer..not cnc perfect..but good enough for Government work 8-P.
BEFORE YOU START.
Brake clean or run laquer thinner through the case to wash it out..cover everything with rags..
Run a shop vac to one of the shaft openings to suck up as much of the grit as possible and do the deed. I used a sawzall to make the cuts. 14 tpi "the torch" blade. Keep the speed low. I have an old school sawzall that uses an allen bolt to retain the blade so i can make an accurate cut with it. The twist to change blades sawzalls are junk for a job like this..only suitable for construction demo. An air powered body saw might work but the blade needs to be a lot more coarse than for cutting quarter panels. If all else fails a couple of hack saws with spankin new blades and one giant arm will get the job done.
Round the corner and edges you make with a file..have fun..admire your work. Once i know the clearance is ok ill go back and make a larger radius on the bottom corner of the cut.
Carefully remove the rags..
Wash down everything with brake clean. Wash again..wipe'r out and wash again..
Get the strongest magnet you can handle safely..put on leather gloves and run it around the inside..
Wash again..
Check for debris..
Wash again..am i repeating myself?
Keep going until you are certain there is nothing left in the case hiding for you.
Tomorrow i will try to test fit and see if we took enough off to allow assembly of the shafts and check the engagement of the high/low range (formerly drive/pto) sliding gear to see if 1/4" off the top was enough to prevent 2 gears engaged at once destruction.
More tomorrow.
Happy Labour day Hockey Fans..
Ok so here is the point of no return..modifying the case for the new gear.
The new gear sits about 3/4" to the right(rear) of the case when youre looking into the pto opening so some material has to be removed from the case to make it all happen.
In the second pic you can see the layout of what im starting with for a relief. The existing hole for the cover is a little more than 3/4" east of the opening but hey..its already there and has a nice radius so i just made my cuts to take advantage of it. The third pic shows the inside of the cover with the bump out..it will have to change locations when i make the new cover so this should give you an idea of what needs to happen there. Also in the first pic you can see there is an angle chamfered into the upper part of the existing opening. Afer the basic cut was made i massaged the nub left with a die grinder to match the chamfer..not cnc perfect..but good enough for Government work 8-P.
BEFORE YOU START.
Brake clean or run laquer thinner through the case to wash it out..cover everything with rags..
Run a shop vac to one of the shaft openings to suck up as much of the grit as possible and do the deed. I used a sawzall to make the cuts. 14 tpi "the torch" blade. Keep the speed low. I have an old school sawzall that uses an allen bolt to retain the blade so i can make an accurate cut with it. The twist to change blades sawzalls are junk for a job like this..only suitable for construction demo. An air powered body saw might work but the blade needs to be a lot more coarse than for cutting quarter panels. If all else fails a couple of hack saws with spankin new blades and one giant arm will get the job done.
Round the corner and edges you make with a file..have fun..admire your work. Once i know the clearance is ok ill go back and make a larger radius on the bottom corner of the cut.
Carefully remove the rags..
Wash down everything with brake clean. Wash again..wipe'r out and wash again..
Get the strongest magnet you can handle safely..put on leather gloves and run it around the inside..
Wash again..
Check for debris..
Wash again..am i repeating myself?
Keep going until you are certain there is nothing left in the case hiding for you.
Tomorrow i will try to test fit and see if we took enough off to allow assembly of the shafts and check the engagement of the high/low range (formerly drive/pto) sliding gear to see if 1/4" off the top was enough to prevent 2 gears engaged at once destruction.
More tomorrow.
Happy Labour day Hockey Fans..
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DUUANE
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Fitment
Ok i got the intermediate shaft 95% of the way in but as you can see in the pic of the inside the cut needs to be at least another 1/8"-3/16" wider..that will give the clearance needed at the chamfer radius and a little more wiggle room at the side of the gear. To sum up cut 1/8"-3/16" east of the hole for the cover we used for reference in the last post. All should be well.
Its time to do my chores now so the rest will have to wait a bit..
I got wrapped up doing an alternator conversion on my IHC V190 today..the old 549 will live to drink fuel another day..
More soon..im starting to get excited
Ok i got the intermediate shaft 95% of the way in but as you can see in the pic of the inside the cut needs to be at least another 1/8"-3/16" wider..that will give the clearance needed at the chamfer radius and a little more wiggle room at the side of the gear. To sum up cut 1/8"-3/16" east of the hole for the cover we used for reference in the last post. All should be well.
Its time to do my chores now so the rest will have to wait a bit..
I got wrapped up doing an alternator conversion on my IHC V190 today..the old 549 will live to drink fuel another day..
More soon..im starting to get excited
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DUUANE
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HAPPY THANKS GIVING!
Well after logging 350 hours on the job this month i finally mamaged a day off..so i had a go at tuning up the case for better fitment. I'll be out shopping for a new woodruf key for the idler shaft tomorrow as this one is kinda baked. Hopefully ill only have to put this thing back together 4 or 5 more times before it can stay that way for good. Looking forward to making some gaskets and tapping in some new seals.
Well after logging 350 hours on the job this month i finally mamaged a day off..so i had a go at tuning up the case for better fitment. I'll be out shopping for a new woodruf key for the idler shaft tomorrow as this one is kinda baked. Hopefully ill only have to put this thing back together 4 or 5 more times before it can stay that way for good. Looking forward to making some gaskets and tapping in some new seals.
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mcv1964
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I'm getting excited for you and the prospects for all of us early deuce people!!!!
GO BROTHER GO!!!!!
GO BROTHER GO!!!!!
DUUANE
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I'm a-goin!!! Hahaha. Lots to be thankful for. Peace, family, prosperity, purpose and good health to all.
USMC 00-08
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I'm not trying to get too far off topic here, but since you have your transfer case open, I have a question for you.
Are there any brass, bronze or other parts considered "yellow metal" in these transfer cases?
There are years old arguments here about if GL-5 gear oil will ruin the "yellow metal" parts in transfer cases, transmissions or differentials. I have API Service GL-5, MT-1 85w140 in my transfer case but have not really driven the truck since putting it in. I'm just real curious if there is even anything to worry about in these. Most of the arguments are over the M35A2 trucks and the G749 series is a different animal so not sure any of those arguments are even applicable to us.
Are there any brass, bronze or other parts considered "yellow metal" in these transfer cases?
There are years old arguments here about if GL-5 gear oil will ruin the "yellow metal" parts in transfer cases, transmissions or differentials. I have API Service GL-5, MT-1 85w140 in my transfer case but have not really driven the truck since putting it in. I'm just real curious if there is even anything to worry about in these. Most of the arguments are over the M35A2 trucks and the G749 series is a different animal so not sure any of those arguments are even applicable to us.
DUUANE
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Certainly on topic..i havnt seen any..but i wasnt looking for that so i will look again.
I often don't know the day's date, and when I read "Happy Thanksgiving"...wow, I really didn't think my clock was off that bad! lol Happy Thanksgiving to you, either a few days late or a few weeks early. 
Thanks for the efforts. I discussed this mod w/my brother after he helped me drag my 7030 Allis Chalmers out of the mud with my xm211 that needs a low range.
Thanks for the efforts. I discussed this mod w/my brother after he helped me drag my 7030 Allis Chalmers out of the mud with my xm211 that needs a low range.
DUUANE
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Im at home with my wife this weekend finally..getting the concrete lined up for the new shack and having some much needed quallity time so no chabce to eyeball the guts of my tcase yet..
But i was reading up on the eaton/fuller website recently that for high load off highway and severe service with hight teperatures they spec straight 50 weight engine oil vs. a gl5 or 80w90 gear oil. The short of it was that in units (transmissions) experiencing high operating temps from high load/ambient combinations the gear oil leaves a buildup of some sort like a shellac on bearings and races that messes with running clearances and creates accellerated wear and failures.
With the design of our cases sending power through gears and countershafts 100% of the time it maight be worth experimenting. The np200 in my m37 you could fry an egg on after a good stint at highway speed but a 205 in high range is a different story. The difference being the power flow.
Roading a 135/211 at speed for a few hours probably isnt an issue for most..but once mine is done..by gum..ill find an excuse to drive it to texas an back..
But i was reading up on the eaton/fuller website recently that for high load off highway and severe service with hight teperatures they spec straight 50 weight engine oil vs. a gl5 or 80w90 gear oil. The short of it was that in units (transmissions) experiencing high operating temps from high load/ambient combinations the gear oil leaves a buildup of some sort like a shellac on bearings and races that messes with running clearances and creates accellerated wear and failures.
With the design of our cases sending power through gears and countershafts 100% of the time it maight be worth experimenting. The np200 in my m37 you could fry an egg on after a good stint at highway speed but a 205 in high range is a different story. The difference being the power flow.
Roading a 135/211 at speed for a few hours probably isnt an issue for most..but once mine is done..by gum..ill find an excuse to drive it to texas an back..
USMC 00-08
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When you do, be sure to drop by and say hello.
DUUANE
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You bet..thanks for the invite..and if you make it to vancouver island lemmie know..we have 5 acres of parking in the trees and we're across the street from a beautiful provincial park..white water and miles of hiking trails.