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M146 RV Conversion

RAYZER

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sanford/florida
Rayzer, This is a Awesome thread on a RV conversion for the M146 that it inspired me to buy a M146 last week. Hope you do not mind using some of your ideas when I do my build out of the inside. You have a real talent for attention to detail. Thank you for keeping us all updated on the progress. The 11.00 x 20s look much better on this trailer. I will have to do the same thing or slightly taller if possible to get my trailer to level out some with the M931 and super singles. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the conpliments sir!
I don't mind at all if you use my ideas.
Please be carefull with the clearance between your super singles and your m146 landing gear, that might be an issue.
 

agazza2

Active member
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Ahwatukee, AZ
Thanks for the conpliments sir!
I don't mind at all if you use my ideas.
Please be carefull with the clearance between your super singles and your m146 landing gear, that might be an issue.
After looking at your photos again of the clearance on your landing gear, I hope that I will have enough clearance when I go to pick mine up. I will have to post the clearance so others can consider this when considering buying one of these trailers for the M931/M932A2s in the future. Thanks for this information.
 

maddawg308

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Appomattox, VA
God that's beautiful. Too nice to bring to any rally I attend, that rig would get all muddy and dirty inside from mud and dirt on the boots. But still, I gotta hand it to ya, best looking MV RV I have ever seen!
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
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48
Location
sanford/florida
Back with more progress!
Have been working on a good way to supply hot water to the system and heres what I came up with.
This portable, fully automatic lp tankless water heater will supply 1.6 gpm at 180 deg. And uses 2 D cell batteries for ignition.
Im not sure if I'll keep this set up,hooking it up and breaking it down and stowing it will be a pain, but it will work for now, and the price was right, $129.00 vrs $550.00 for an lp tankless rv style permanent mount heater.
I used male garden hose fittings on both in and out connections, and braided washing machine supply hoses for the hook up.
Hot shower results coming soon!
uploadfromtaptalk1361149220285.jpgView attachment 411146uploadfromtaptalk1361149236767.jpg
 

LowTech

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Arizona
I'm w/ Welder on this one.
We got one very similar, think it might be the next size up (biggest w/o going to a permanent), to use at our base camp. My thought was to be able to take it w/ us when we were mobile. Don't know if we will, just not that important to us for the space it would take up in the She Beast. Would rather have a passive on the roof :) Also used the washing machine hoses.
I'd put that thing in a fab'd up box on the front, or maybe on the back door, . . . match it up w/ a rack for water cans on the other door, but that's me, I like things mounted to the outside of my rigs ;)
 

LowTech

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Look at your avatar, you could put it high to one side of the AC, . . . add some jerry cans on the other side ;)
 

Welder Sam

New member
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Location
Glendale, Arizona
Im looking at building a rack on the front of mine. Tool boxes, water/fuel cans, batteries, poles for the awning(coming soon), 100lb lp bottle,and now im pondering a couple water tanks. May rig a shower on the fold down deck.

Being a 5th wheel, you may not have alot of space for a full rack but definately have useable space left and right of the air conditioner for it
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
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Location
sanford/florida
Hey guys, thanks for the input!
I too have planned a front rack in the future, but haven't scrutinized the clearance yet,
Hopefully theres enough room for 18" deep and all the way across, I don't want to chop off my beacon light!
I could put the water heater up on the front, but that seems like alot of plumbing, lp line and all.
Ya, the more I think about it, I think i'll convert to a permanent unit when I can,shoulda took the money I put in this one and put in that one! I can use the connections I plumbed in for an auxiliary hot and cold water supply.
There is a spot under the back of the trailer ( bbq grill spot ),that a perminate unit would fit, but, would a 14' run to the bathroom faucets, using 1/2" pex, waste to much water (if your trying to conserve),waiting for it to get hot? Normally rv water heaters are plumbed in closer.
Also, a back pourch would be nice, I could have one 7.5' across and 6' long that would fold up for transport, an outside pourch shower is a good idea!
uploadfromtaptalk1361247894759.jpg
 

Welder Sam

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Glendale, Arizona
So, other than the exhaust, whats keeping you from installing it inside where its closer to the wc? Duct it out like a van body heater?

The fold down patio is on my to-do list too. Ive got a couple pieces of catwalk material and some 3" angle that ill do the framing with. Figure it will need some support too. Swing down legs sound good to me. Just pipe with an acme thread nut welded on the bottom and acme "all thread" with a pad of some sort for height adjustment. If more height is needed, block it up. Keep it simple but tweak it to the max
Removable/collapsible hand rail boggles me tho. My ladder will swing up flat onto the deck, then deck will fold up. Keeps from risking losing the ladder.
 
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RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
What kind of van body heater welder sam?
The rv heaters want to be mounted outboard because of the controls and exaust, mounting it inside the trailer would take up valuable floor space and I would have to cut a big hole through the side of the trailer,--- ii don't know??
 

Welder Sam

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Location
Glendale, Arizona
Dang! Maybe i didnt fully realize the dimensions of the unit. The fuel fired van body heaters is what im talking about. The ones that have a little stack out of the front of the vans? Ive got a heater that im putting on my deuce but dont need most of the exhaust pipe. Just guessing, id say its 1.5" diameter. No pics at the moment..
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
On the back porch idea, you could come out with a platform, say 16", then hinge the deck. This would allow some gear stowage. Wouldn't look as streamline, but would be real functional!
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
Dang! Maybe i didnt fully realize the dimensions of the unit. The fuel fired van body heaters is what im talking about. The ones that have a little stack out of the front of the vans? Ive got a heater that im putting on my deuce but dont need most of the exhaust pipe. Just guessing, id say its 1.5" diameter. No pics at the moment..
Thats the one I thought, those things put out alot of btu's?
Dimensions on the tankless rv water heater, 12.5"h x 12.5"w x 15.5"d, and it needs that size hole for the door.
 
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Tow4

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Orlando, FL
You want the hot water heater in an RV to be as close to the sink and shower as possible. A long piping run takes too much water to get hot water at the tap. On my RV, the HWH is under the bathroom sink with the access panel and exhaust on the outside of the trailer. If I was installing a permanent HWH Ray, I would try and put it under the sink, or make a cubby hole in the bathroom for it to go in. As long as it is installed on an outside wall you should have no problems with exhaust.

As always Ray, the trailer is looking sharp and I like all the good ideas you are incorporating into it. Keep up the good work! [thumbzup]
 

Welder Sam

New member
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Location
Glendale, Arizona
Thats the one I thought, those things put out alot of btu's?
Dimensions on the tankless rv water heater, 12.5"h x 12.5"w x 15.5"d, and it needs that size hole for the door.
30k btu is the claim. Manual says 400* at discharge. I dont know how i feel about it yet. Dont have it in. Will be a headache for sure
 
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