M246 wrecker tractor hydraulic hose replacement

[RAYZER]

Went to move the crane the other day and blew one of the hydrolic hose that comes up through the floor and connects to the swing pump, fluid spraying everywhere! what a mess.
Both 50 year old swing pump hoses are badly rotted out and I'll have to replace several more.
This is to say the least a very exstensive repair and will involve draining the hydrolic tank,remove and reinstall total of 11 hoses (both ends), pull swivel valve (top side) 10 hose ends connected to that!
Now, For the swivel valve, i spent most of the day attempting to pull it up and out but failed miserably because it's stuck in the hole!
The TM calls for attaching a chain to the top of the valve and pulling, but too much leverage will compromise the thin retailer plate at the bottom and if that gives it could destroy the valve (tm didn't mention that).
I have attempted removal with: penetrating oil, an assortment of big hammers, punch bars, wedges, pry bars and a 4' long 3 / 4 " bar up through the bottom center of the post to the bottom of the valve with a big hammer and then a hydrolic jack pushing up, ain't budging.
I'll let it sit over night and see if the penetrating oil helps.
I want to thank 73m819 for his technical and moral support,
Thanks Ron!


View attachment 478957

 

[wreckerman893]

Since most Wally-Worlds carry dry ice now could you put some on the thingy and cool it enough to shrink and break the tension on it?

Before I got out of the wrecker club my hydraulic hose guy had put a kid through college on my dime.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Ray, I'm sure you know the Austin-Western beds use a goofy Ermeto hose fitting. Every time I have a hose burst, I have that fitting cut off the old hose and brazed onto a new style hose thread. Its $$$ up front, but in the long run you can just swap out with cheap, current threaded hoses. I hope this helps.

Might want to contact 123mack, he took a whole M246 apart to part out. He might be able to offer some insight as to what needs to happen here.

 

[Speedzilla]

That truck is wicked cool!

 

[RAYZER]

I'll keep y’all posted.
I was wondering if anyone here has taken apart one of these swivel valves? If I remove the bottom retainer plate will the entire head lift up and off the valve plug?
I realize this would have to be done with great care. It would give me access to the bottom portion of the valve plug where it fits down into the bearing cap, possibly a special collar could be fabricated for pulling purposes.

 

[123mack]

That's what I was I was about to suggest. It can be taken apart.

 

[RAYZER]

I'm going to give that a try.

 

[doghead]

I have not seen one apart.

Here's a pic for reference.

 

[RAYZER]

Thanks doghead.
There's another example of the swivel valve exsploded view in the 34p tm, (i am unable to post it).
It's an example of how the valve itself comes apart.

In your example #24 is the swivel valve.

 

[73m819]

Yep, this was our yesterday afternoon coms. topic

I have a copy of the evolution report for the 246 (same as 819), one of the recommendations for CHANGE to the production 246s WAS hard lining the hoses up to the swivel valve due to the fact it would be a VERY difficult repair in the field, as you SEE, the military followed There OWN evolution teams RECOMMENDATION NOT, in fact NON of the recommendations was acted on. ???????

 

[doghead]

This?

If you tell me the figure number, I can post it here.

 

[RAYZER]

Got it apart, (the head off)! Now if I can find a large bearing separator, I can clamp under the lower flange and have something to pull and pry on.

 

[RAYZER]

Just thinking, if the swivel valve plug won't seperate using conventional methods, i might have to pull the bearing cap along with the valve plug and use a press to seperate the two.
However, if the top pivot post bearing is tapered this won't work because the bearing will want to ramp out of the race due to unbalanced and unsupported side load(speculation).
But if the the bearing is a straight cut captured roller bearing and will support the side load when the bearing cap is removed, then it might work.
I have no way to determine what style bearing is used at this time.
Thanks for any help.

 

[doghead]

I'm a bit confused but are you refering to part # 18&17 in post #8?

Please post more pics when you can. I don't think anyone has ever posted the inside of that swivel before.

 

[RAYZER]

I'm a bit confused but are you refering to part # 18&17 in post #8?

Please post more pics when you can. I don't think anyone has ever posted the inside of that swivel before.

Sorry for the confusion.
Yes on the bearing and race 17 and 18.

 

[doghead]

This from the A/W manual.

 

[RAYZER]

Thanks doghead.
It looks like a tapered bearing.
I'm going to pull the cap, keep your fingers crossed!

 

[ODFever]

I wish there was something I could do to help you out, Rayzer. I'm there in spirit!

 

[RAYZER]

Took the bearing cap loose, was able to move the cap around on valve plug, you guessed it, the valve plug is stuck in pivot post itself.
Back to the drawing board.

 

[QUADJEEPER]

Any progress Ray? The second drawing that Doghead sent you seems to show a very shallow area where that could be seized. I'd try more penetrating juice in there. I saw you had done that already, but more is better, esp. under the grease just under that upper plate.