• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M246 wrecker tractor hydraulic hose replacement

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
Thanks for everyone's support.
No success today for getting this thing apart, the swivel valve plug is still stuck in the pivot post, I did take the bolts out of the bearing cap which allows the cap to slide upward to meet the flange on the swivel valve plug, i can get some wedges between the bottom of the cap and top of the stand to create upward force and hopefully get it apart, I'll take some pics tomorrow of this procedure.
Two of the tm diagrams (fig 434 and 423) posted in this thread are not accurate representation of the stuck part I'm having problems with.
Doghead, if you would be so kind to post one more tm page that I think will give better understanding of how it all fits.
TM 2320-260-34-2 16-32. Hydraulic swivel valve replacement.
Thanks so much for your help.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
Here is the text for the removal procedure..
 

Attachments

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
The tm calls for pulling the entire swivel valve assembly up and out with a chain fall,
The 1/8th"thick triangler plate that bolts to the bottom of the swivel valve head Is a retainer plate, this plate rides in a groove on the swivel valve plug and keeps the valve head from lifting up and off of the plug. In a case where the valve plug is stuck in the pivot post,
the harder you pull up with the chain fall the more the retainer plate distorts, in short order the plate would distort enough to pull out of the groove gouging the machined mated surface on the sides of the plug and potentially destroying the swivel valve assembly.
 
Last edited:

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
12,195
325
0
Location
gainesville, ga.
You can see why the evaluation teams RECOMMENDATION 0f hard lining the hoses up to the swivel valve was made, they had the FOR THOUGHT to see this very problem, to bad the design engineers did not.
 

ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,011
73
48
Location
Orlando, FL
Ray - The rain chance has gone up to 60%. If you have any part of the swivel valve exposed, cover it up and secure the cover well. The rain is supposed to be here by 2PM, and winds have kicked up.
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
Sitting in the doorway of the Taj drinking something cold and its starting to rain(thanks OD), everything is now covered, i started early today working on getting the plug out of the hole so I could put everything away, I'm exsausted.
But good news it's out!
I didn't have access to a touch today (thanks for the suggestion GR) because the old man was in a bad mood(his torch) so I didn't ask, but i got the plug out never the less.
It was an arduous task.
The plug was in the post about 3 or 4 inches, using steel wedges and shocking from side to side with a bfh and a oak 3x3,I was able to get it to move about 1/64" at a time (if that), what a process.
The next order of business will be to drag all the hoses out of the hole and get to work.
 
Last edited:

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Well, now that its out, is there anything any of us should do now in order to keep it loose so when we have to pull ours, the job isn't as tedious? Maybe drill a hole in the top plate and tap it for a grease zerk? Spray that area down every other month and pray it eats the rust? Sell the old A/W truck and buy a 936?
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
Well, now that its out, is there anything any of us should do now in order to keep it loose so when we have to pull ours, the job isn't as tedious? Maybe drill a hole in the top plate and tap it for a grease zerk? Spray that area down every other month and pray it eats the rust? Sell the old A/W truck and buy a 936?
If a hole were drilled it would have to be right on the edge and that cap is an inch thick.
But, the center hole in the cap where the plug goes through has no seal so i suppose if you kept that area loaded up with penetrating oil it would seep down to the corrosion in question, also you can look up through the bottom cross hatch (way up in there)and see the bottom of the plug, a custom extra long pb blaster tube might reach that.
Sell the AW? Say what!!
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
Pulled the guts out.
Notice the keyway slot on the inner hole of the bearing cap, this could be used to keep oil down in the corrosion prone area.
A few more pics of the process.
uploadfromtaptalk1393268221661.jpguploadfromtaptalk1393268251362.jpguploadfromtaptalk1393268269316.jpguploadfromtaptalk1393268294506.jpguploadfromtaptalk1393268315037.jpguploadfromtaptalk1393268340390.jpguploadfromtaptalk1393268369999.jpguploadfromtaptalk1393268414746.jpguploadfromtaptalk1393268436743.jpguploadfromtaptalk1393268463862.jpg
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
Took the hoses to a local hydraulic house and the guy is telling me that these hose fittings are standard, do these look different than the obsolete ermeto fittings? What is the difference?
 
Top