M35 block heaters- who was selling them?

[JasonS]

got mine from amozon and it was the wrong plug size did anybody else have this issue ???

No, but I got two from NAPA that were the wrong wattage.

 

[Smokinyoda]

I would buy from Westfolk, you get experienced tech support for your exact application that way. Regardless make sure to mount in the lower hole. If you have a cab heater move your heater return line to the upper hole and put the block heater in its place. This is what Westfolk reccomends, so im sure there is a reason for it.

Most, if not all early failures I have read about with these heaters on deuces have been when they were mounted in the upper hole, or plugged in before submerging.
Here is Westfolk's installation video.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_x866oWPJk[/media]

 

[westfolk]

Another thing that more than one person has done is not have the element sitting in the 12 and 6 position when it's put in tight.

You can use 400, 600 watt. If you want to use a 750 watt you may need to file off about 1/32 of the pump housing on the insdie on the front towards the radiator. Some housings are fine, some the element will touch when you are tightening the element. It is a very little piece to file. Literally about half the size of a housefly. Must be something with what cast was used to make the housing.

Nice video done on the cheap.

 

[rrrr]

according to the video above where do you put in the element if you have a heater ? I have one on the way and would like to know.

 

[westfolk]

according to the video above where do you put in the element if you have a heater ? I have one on the way and would like to know.

Watch the video again. At the 15 second mark look at where my fingers are.

 

[1redgmc]

I found the package that the one I bought from Amazon came in. Perfect fit. Easy installation. I got this information from another thread before placing my order. I apologize for the redundancy.

KAT's Heaters / Frost Plug # 11611

600W / 120V

LR93521

It seems to work very well except for on the coldest days when temps are down in the 20's and below

 

[paradeduty]

Just the Ticket

Thanks, guys.

I have been meaning to try some researching and get a replacement for the one that is in the Detroit Diesel 6V53TA that is in the "Baby HEMTT" (actually, the 5-Ton HMTT). The one that was in it was bad when I went to coordinate pick up and delivery last winter and just havn't gotten around to it yet. Sounds like these seem to be doing the job fairly well for you guys and if left to my own devices, I could probably do a lot worse!

By the way, anyone have any experience/success with block heaters for the larger diesels (911's etc. w/8V92 and such)? Was wondering if a larger wattage was the way to go and if so, how high seemed to do the job.

Time to place an order.......Take Care, Dave.

 

[westfolk]

I found the package that the one I bought from Amazon came in. Perfect fit. Easy installation. I got this information from another thread before placing my order. I apologize for the redundancy.

KAT's Heaters / Frost Plug # 11611

600W / 120V

LR93521

It seems to work very well except for on the coldest days when temps are down in the 20's and below

If you use that part number you are talking about a completely different thing. That block heater is an everyday PITA "take out a freeze plug and put in a block heater" setup.
This thread is talking about the VERY EASY to install hassle-free threaded block heater, which is not KAT's #11611

Whatever works for you. If it doesn't have threads, then it's a PITA to use.

 

[dynodave1]

I would buy from Westfolk, you get experienced tech support for your exact application that way. Regardless make sure to mount in the lower hole. If you have a cab heater move your heater return line to the upper hole and put the block heater in its place. This is what Westfolk reccomends, so im sure there is a reason for it.

Most, if not all early failures I have read about with these heaters on deuces have been when they were mounted in the upper hole, or plugged in before submerging.
Here is Westfolk's installation video.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_x866oWPJk[/media]

How do we get in contact with Westfolk?

 

[mightymanx]

Click on his name it's in the post above you and find the PM icon and send him a private message AKA "PM"

 

[drgreg]

I use the Kat's P/N 11619 from Amazon.com, it is $26 including shipping. If you find a better deal post it here, SS is all about helping our MV brothers enjoy the hobby.

 

[WWIILBird]

I watched the video and installed the heater in my lower plug and made sure it was at 12 & 6 position Two things happened. As I was tightening the heater element I noticed fluid very slowly leaking from the center where the two prongs are but thought it stopped. Plugged it in and it didn't feel warm. Went to the outlet and my GFI popped. I took out the heater and notice scuff marks on the sides of the coil like it rubbed against the water pump walls. (I have the Kat 11619). So much for my install. I saw a posting (illustration) a couple of days ago which I can now not find that showed most people have there deuces plumbed wrong for the hot water heater and that the hose should be on the bottom by the water pump. My return hose is mounted in the top plug on my 1980 deuce. I called Amazon and they said they would replace the heater as long as I send back the old one. Of course I cant figure out where I put the coil. I think I will swap where the intake hose is and put the heater up top, something is definitely up inside my water pump.

 

[westfolk]

As I said years ago when I first let everyone know they could use this....some water pump housings have a small part of the casting that will touch the element. To find out if you have one of them you put it in and turn it one full turn. If you feel any resistance, or if you want to be sure anyway. Take it back out and see if the element has a scuff mark. If it does file about 1/32" of the housing. If not install it.
This may happen with the 600 or 750 watt units. I have never had, nor heard of it happening with a 400 watt.

Someone came up with the bright idea of using the upper hole. Can you use it???? I guess. I would never do it. The heater return can use either port, top or bottom. Though the TM says use the bottom I have seen them come right out of service using the top. I have never noticed any difference in the heater rather which return location it used.

But what does it matter for the block heater location? The nice time you cook something on the stove put the fire above what you are cooking and see how well that works. Same thing here. You want the heat to be at the lowest possible location.

 

[WWIILBird]

Found the article I was referring to above. Westfolk I didn't realize it was rubbing, I have the 600W unit. I finger tighten it but really didn't feel any resistance except the normal resistence as the threads make contact with the block. After removing the unit I saw it was scuffing on the copper coil near the base. About a half inch rubbed. How do you file? I would assume you saying the water pump would need to be removed otherwise the filings would drop into the water pump.

 

[swbradley1]

Except for the fact that one of them burned up on me I like the magnetic. Just walk out and slap the thing on the oil pan. Works fine and it does not leak.

 

[westfolk]

Found the article I was referring to above. Westfolk I didn't realize it was rubbing, I have the 600W unit. I finger tighten it but really didn't feel any resistance except the normal resistence as the threads make contact with the block. After removing the unit I saw it was scuffing on the copper coil near the base. About a half inch rubbed. How do you file? I would assume you saying the water pump would need to be removed otherwise the filings would drop into the water pump.

You can leave it on the engine. The way most people use that needed it was to place a good sized magnet right at the hole and carefully file. The way I've done it is a little different. I have a nice course rat tail file on the ready. I turn the plug/element out and insert the file. Give it about 10 good and hard strokes on the front side(facing the radiator). Then put the plug/element back in. The whole time everything is being washed out with the antifreeze. You lose about a quart or so doing it this way. I like it best though because the filings are so small and light and the flow is good enough I am confident it is all being washed out. Just the way I do it. though.

 

[mjcdetroit]

Being from Michigan, I am a big fan of block-heaters during these cold winters. Therefore this was a must do for me. I ordered the Kat's 600-watt model#11619 from Amazon for about $33 shipped to my door. I found that the the unit would not fit in my water-pump. So I followed Westfolk's advice and started filing the front side with a course rat-tailed file; although I did drain the coolant from the water pump first. I installed the unit but it soon started to leak from the electrical prongs. I discovered that Kat's did not place enough sealant around the prongs. I sent that unit back and got the replacement part soon in the mail. This one seemed to have more sealant around the prongs. So I redid the procedure and fired up the deuce. I let her warm up at idle--no leaks detected. Then I took her for a short test drive and there was not any leaks occurring. Checked her again in the driveway with a final temperature gauge reading of just over 160°F and again there were not any leaks coming from the area of the installed engine block heater in the water pump (or [knock on wood] from anywhere else). I tested the heater prongs with a voltage multi-meter for continuity and it was good. I let her sit overnight, then screwed in the supplied electrical cord, plugged it and the football game on the radio in my garage when off and the GFI in the outlet tripped. So I plugged it into the outlet on the outside of the house and tripped the breaker in the breaker box in the basement. What the héll? (Those two outlets were on the same line with a bunch of other stuff.) So I plugged it into a different outlet in the garage and violà the heater started to heat. Two hours later and the once formally 35°F water pump and the upper radiator hose seems hot. Hopefully this install lasts a long time.

Here are some images that I hope help someone at sometime (I kept getting an error when I used the insert image button...sorry links only):

First unit leaking:

First unit showing not enough sealant:

Replacement unit showing more sealant:

Area to be filed:

Area to be filed with fancy arrows:

Final look:

File used (middle one):