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M35 Gear Shifting correct

SpyDad

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Ok, so in the video it shows him as pulling the lever up to shift the transfer case, is he starting out in low gears then shifting the transfer case into high and grabbing 4th and 5th gears? What is the position of the lever for low vs. high for the transfer case? I am just getting use to my deuce and what to be sure I understand this split shifting before I attempt it. Thanks.
 

mcmullag

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transfer case

yes he is starting with the transfer case in low range, it's shifter down near the floor, then he pulls it all the way up to high range, and shifts the transmission back to 4th, then back up to 5th. (the transfer case also has a neutral mode, halfway up from the floor).
 

Capt.Marion

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2LO
3LO
4LO
5LO
Shift Xfer to High
Double Clutch down into 4HI
5HI

That's how I drive regularly, and that's how he did it. Just on a side note, I double-clutch everything, but that's just me.
 

hammerdown

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Come on everyone who wants to try this,its so easy to do.Watch the video again if need be
its easy to change gear,dont worry about the transfercase crunching its got a synchromesh in it so its just like shifting gear.
I tend to use this to my advantage now,i.e if its flat road i pull away in high,if i have to start on a incline then i use low then change to high,its great.:p
Happy Days.....:p:p
 

Wildchild467

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i split shifted mine one day and it ground a little on the t case. i never ever try to force the t case lever, so i dont break anything or force it. Also, i just changed the transmission and t case to GL-1, so maybe that will help. not sure what was in it before. what wear parts are there when you split shift the t case? i heard that the forks will wear out (maybe if you beat on it and pull the lever hard) and it will want to pop out of gear. i always thought if it pops out of gear, its probably the synchros (however you spell synchros).
 

Capt.Marion

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i split shifted mine one day and it ground a little on the t case. i never ever try to force the t case lever, so i dont break anything or force it. Also, i just changed the transmission and t case to GL-1, so maybe that will help. not sure what was in it before. what wear parts are there when you split shift the t case? i heard that the forks will wear out (maybe if you beat on it and pull the lever hard) and it will want to pop out of gear. i always thought if it pops out of gear, its probably the synchros (however you spell synchros).
It's a combination of both. I actually double-clutch the transfer case, too, in a manner of speaking. Just let the clutch out when the Xfer is in neutral, then clutch back in and pull it the rest of the way into High Range.
 

DDoyle

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So what is the thinking on the use of the clutch - and not using it.
While heavy truck transmissions (such as the Fuller found in many over the road tractors) are designed to be shifted without benefit of the clutch, the M35 (entire G-742 family) is NOT a heavy truck. It is, by definition, a light-medium truck. Accordingly, it has light, medium components.

The engineers at Reo Motors Inc, who designed this thing back in 1949, and literally wrote the book(s) on them likely no more about their design, engineering and operation than any of us. EVERY operators manual written for these trucks - TM9-819 June 1950 TM9-819 (Jan 1952), TM 9-8022 (1954), TM-9-2320-235-10 Dec. 61, TM-9-2320-209-10 Feb 65, TM-9-2320-209-10-1 Sept 1980 says use the clutch every time.

Along the course of the way, these manuals, by contract, were revised and updated by automotive engineers from Studebaker, Kaiser-Jeep, and AM General, with input from a whole lotta folks at Aberdeen Proving Ground and Yuma Proving Ground - if there was a better way to operate the transmission and clutch, I gotta believe that they would have found it!

Since my little collection of manuals spans 30 years, and they keep saying "....depress clutch pedal, and move transmission gearshift lever to next speed......" ((TM 9-819 Section III, paragraph 42, subparagraph (5)) or "As the road speed increases with acceleration and approaches the maximum speed (indicated on the instruction data plate), depress the clutch and release the pressure on the accelerator. Move the transmission-gearshift lever......." (TM 9-2320-209-10, Feb 1965; Section III, 44, subparagraph h) - I suspect that the idea is to use the clutch.

I've done this for the past 15 years or so with my little fleet of deuces, and have yet to have to replace a clutch (other than those trucks that have needed them when I got them).

Must be something to this.............

Best wishes,
David Doyle
 

m16ty

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It's also hard on the syncros to shift a syncronized trans without the clutch.
 

DeuceNewb

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if i ever do this, i depress clutch, shift tcase to high, shift from 5th to 4th, then let the clutch back out. If i have a passenger, i usually have them pull the t case as i shift from 5th to 4th so it goes faster. Never heard a grinding sound. I only do this if i am pulling something heavy though, or if i'm just bored and feeling like shifting. My deuce has plenty of power to start even on an incline in 2nd gear and accelerate fine.
 

Green Toys

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I have a 5 ton with a multifuel, it has the od transmission in it. I want more gear options but dont want to replace the Transmission. Im thinking of installing a air operated High/Low with a fliper on the shifter, like a big truck, any ideas?????? Thanks
 

nnero

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I starting using this method of shifting and couldnt believe how much happier the deuce felt. It accelerated faster and didnt lug at all. I will keep on practicing and split shift all the time from now on. Especially with the hills. From what i have read, it seems like 5th low is a better choice on steep hills than 3rd high? It seems that gears 1-3 in high range would better suited when slowing down or starting off on level ground. It does require more thinking but once I get the hang of it, I know it will work so much better. If anyone has more suggestions I would be glad to hear.
 

armytruck63

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Fifth low is great on hills and here's why. If you're in 5th low and have to drop a gear because the hill gets steeper, the drop between 5th low and 4th low is smaller than the drop between 3rd high and 2nd high. This means you can keep the engine RPM's higher for more power and go up the hill (slightly) faster.
 

bearboley

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Is the transfer synchronized? Is it able to withstand this all the time with out hurting it. I know it can be done and I have tried it but not sure if its designed for it.
 

m16ty

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I split my gears everyday so I made a shifter for that
Aaron, That mod looks good but I'd be worried that all that extra weight would be hard on the detent when in high and could pop out of gear when you hit a bump or by the vibration when going down the road.
 

aaron379

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Aaron, That mod looks good but I'd be worried that all that extra weight would be hard on the detent when in high and could pop out of gear when you hit a bump or by the vibration when going down the road.
its been on for about 2 months no problems at all, when its in high the stick is over the seat and its really not putting pressure on the lever... but defiantly helps improve delay in shifting
 

Katahdin

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Just wanted to mention an observation that the transfer case can be shifted without engaging the clutch when rolling while the tranny is in neutral.

Lately when coming to a stop in high gear, I'll start braking, when the RPM hits idle speed I'll engage the clutch and shift the tranny to neutral, disengage the clutch, then while still rolling and braking shift the transfer case to low and finally come to a complete stop.
 
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