m35a2 bad rear wheel seal

[rustystud]

The problem I found with adjusting the rears for a slight clearance like the front or any other tapered bearing is the seal. If it's adjusted so there is any movement then the seal is loose and you will be pulling them all apart again. I learned that the hard way. I follow the way the TM says of torquing to 50 ft. lbs. and backing off, but I do a little less than 1/8th turn. No more seal leaks.

OK guys, your over thinking this tightening thing. When adjusted properly the wheel hub will have about .002" clearance in the bearings (some say you can go up to .005") . You will be able to feel this as a very slight movement. It just takes practice. This is not enough movement to damage seals or anything else. What it does is provide clearance for when the bearings heat up. When the bearings are warm, there should be no movement in the wheel hub.

 

[acesneights1]

I'm knee deep in this. Not a bad job at all but how much grease ?
Should I just pack the bearings or fill the whole hub with grease as well ?

 

[Floridianson]

I believe in putting it in the hub too.

 

[acesneights1]

I believe in putting it in the hub too.

Thanks. Putting it back together now. Will post pic later.

 

[Jeepsinker]

I fill the whole hub. Two pounds of grease per wheel hub.

 

[acesneights1]

Ok, So not a bad job at all. I used a grease board(used dish soap) and slid the whole assembly off as one. Basically there was nothing wrong with my seals. The cork in the keyway had failed. Good thing I didn't drive it anymore because as you can see the grease was gone, washed out by the oil. This is why you should not ignore a wheel seal leak. Luckily my bearings looked fine. I repacked and put it back together with new seal at the nuts(old one was fine but changed it anyway). I used RTV in the keyway liberally.

 

[acesneights1]

All cleaned up

 

[acesneights1]

Just a note, If your gonna do the grease board method, you NEED to be on flat level ground.

 

[welldigger]

I wish the inner seal would contain gear oil. It actually lubricates the bearings better than grease.

 

[rustystud]

I wish the inner seal would contain gear oil. It actually lubricates the bearings better than grease.

I have thought about this for awhile now. There has to be a way to put a modern oil seal there. Come on all you fabricator guys out there. Think of some way this can be done without breaking the bank.

 

[welldigger]

I have thought about this for awhile now. There has to be a way to put a modern oil seal there. Come on all you fabricator guys out there. Think of some way this can be done without breaking the bank.

Steve6x6x6 already did it. But it required machining of the spindle. As in put the entire axle housing into a lathe.

 

[rustystud]

Steve6x6x6 already did it. But it required machining of the spindle. As in put the entire axle housing into a lathe.

That is breaking the bank welldigger ! There must be another way this can be done. Maybe a metal housing that is pressed in that excepts a modern oil seal. A lot of the MAN differentials used a pressed on "wiper" seal. This wiper was where the seal rode on. You had to heat them up to install, and take off. Or go from the hub side. Something pressed in that allowed a different seal.

 

[welldigger]

O I'm sure something could be made that didn't require removal and disassembly of the axle. Unfortunately I have neither the time or the equipment to do such a thing.

 

[Hainebd]

What is the big deal with the deuce seals? A lip seal is less forgiving then the deuce seal. Set the seal correctly, lube it, set the bearing preload correctly, clean the breather and fill with oil. No problems.

 

[acesneights1]

What is the big deal with the deuce seals? A lip seal is less forgiving then the deuce seal. Set the seal correctly, lube it, set the bearing preload correctly, clean the breather and fill with oil. No problems.

The only issue I see is over time even with the keyway plugged it would seem gear oil could still make it past the nut threads or where the nut contacts the metal part of the seal. I did a skin of snot on that too although from what I am told, these things were never meant for longevity, more consistent maintenance.

 

[gringeltaube]

.... There must be another way this can be done. Maybe a metal housing that is pressed in that excepts a modern oil seal. A lot of the MAN differentials used a pressed on "wiper" seal. This wiper was where the seal rode on. You had to heat them up to install, and take off. Or go from the hub side. Something pressed in that allowed a different seal.

This...?



G.

 

[Hainebd]

With a lip seal, dirt wears a grove in the spindle, then the lip will not seal. The Rockwell seal is completely replaceable since the rubber runs on the race. Also, if you pull a wheel with a lip seal you should replace. The deuce clean inspect. Lub reassemble.

 

[Jeepsinker]

You can remove the hot rivets from the rear spindles, machine them, then reinstall with grade 8 or 10 bolts and nuts with good lockwashers. Same as the front spindles. They are bolted on and they stay. Otherwise, what happens if you loose a rear wheel bearing and damage the spindle? Replace the whole axle? H*ll no, just replace the spindle.

 

[welldigger]

You can remove the hot rivets from the rear spindles, machine them, then reinstall with grade 8 or 10 bolts and nuts with good lockwashers. Same as the front spindles. They are bolted on and they stay. Otherwise, what happens if you loose a rear wheel bearing and damage the spindle? Replace the whole axle? H*ll no, just replace the spindle.

Huh? The rivets on the rear axle only hold the brake back plate on. The spindle is made into the housing.

 

[welldigger]

With a lip seal, dirt wears a grove in the spindle, then the lip will not seal. The Rockwell seal is completely replaceable since the rubber runs on the race. Also, if you pull a wheel with a lip seal you should replace. The deuce clean inspect. Lub reassemble.

Interesting since effectively everything went to oil bath bearings or sealed wheel bearings.