M35A2 Front End Replacement Questions

[AZDeuce]

Gentlemen:

I spent last weekend, swapping out my non working front axle, for a used working takeout. Some fun when doing it by your self, but I got her done, and without injuring myself or the truck. Just took my time and figured out how to get the old one off and down, and the new one up and re-mounted. SAFELY!

I have a couple questions/problems, I'd appreciate some input on. First what size is the wheel bearing wrench/socket I need to buy to remove the wheel bearing nuts the correct way?

Second, when I tilted my "new to me" working front axle over, WATER poured out the top driveshaft pinion seal......DOH!

Sooooo.....my plan of attack once the bearings are repacked and the best brake shoes, wheel cylinders, drums are installed so it is driveable, is to mount the tires, and get her off the jack stands, so she's ready to roll.

Then drain the gear oil/water out, fill with muratic acid, drive her for about 15 - 20 minutes at SLOW speed, then drain the acid, flush out, and fill with diesel fuel, drive her around at slow speed, then repeat the flush/fill w/diesel cycle one more time, then drain that and fill with regular gear oil.

Any thoughts? I would think the muratic acid would eat away any rust/corrosion but not etch the metal parts for that short of time, but I'm ALWAY open to other ways to do this.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[FMJ]

3" socket, got mine at Napa

Are you sure you have a good axle?

A seal that bad, to let water pour out would concern me a great deal. . .

Also, water in the axle might indicate your axle seals are bad.

I would strip the axle down and check everything.

Ed

 

[nk14zp]

3" 8 point socket.

 

[tie6044]

What was wrong with your "non-working" axle?

 

[jwaller]

not sure I'd put acid in my diff but that is just me. prob just use light mineral oil or something like it.

 

[m16ty]

What was wrong with your "non-working" axle?

If only the "chunk" is bad I'd just swap it out. Complete rear axles can be had for almost nothing (I've seen them for less than $200). The chunk off a rear axle will fit in a front. Unless there is some major problems with the steering knuckle there is no reason to pay the high price of a replacement front axle.

 

[gringeltaube]

Dito what FMJ and M16ty said.
Clean/ inspect all, including the rubber boots, BEFORE assembling the outer ends. You might want to replace the inner housing oil seals for which you need to pull the axle shafts. Pinion bearings and other parts may already be damaged from corrosion - no acid in the world will restore their surfaces, just the opposite! Flush repeatedly with used oil and diesel but do NOT put HCl acid in your diff.!

G.

 

[AZDeuce]

COOL! Thanks for all the replies. Ok, so the muratic acid sounds like a bad idea, I got plenty of UMO and diesel to flush it with. Already bought the front axle from a member of our local club, cheap. I plan on checking all the outer end stuff, and put the best stuff on the axle already now in the truck.

As to what's wrong with the old axle, I don't know.....yet! I was on the side of a steep hill hairpin turn when I discovered that I had no front wheel drive! GREAT! ALMOST lost the truck over the hill! (long story). When I got back home I jacked her up one side at a time and rotated the tire. It SHOULD have turned the drive shaft (frt wheel drive disengaged) it didn't turn with either side.

Now my "logic" was that if it doesn't turn with either tire up in the air, then I have two broken axles (highly unlikely) or a bad pumpkin, which seemed most likely. I studied it for about 5 seconds and realized I'd have to pull the engine and or the front axle to install a new pumpkin, either way a PITA, but removing the axle less so.

I figured just get a replacement axle, and swap it out to keep the truck up and running, as I will need it for an upcoming road trip.......right back to that same steep hill/hairpin turn. So it's already swapped out and it seems to work correctly.

So I will put the best hub end parts on this axle and get her running again, then at a future date, I will tear into the bad axle and see what broke, and if I can fix it. Once that axle is good to go I'll keep it as a spare, and if (when?) the current one gives up the ghost, I'll swap them out again.

I know how to do it now!

At least that's my "poor boy on a budget plan."

 

[FMJ]

One broken axle will cause the problem you describe, all you would spin are the spider gears, or the broken axle, doing it by rotating the wheels. Drive the truck, I'm assuming airshift t-case, and have someone watch the front driveshaft if it doesn't turn, I'm gonna bet 1 broken axle, or, the drive caps that bolt on the front hubs, you may have "de-splined" one of them

Remember, stock, these are open differentials, hence any damage to either side of the front axle will render it inoperable.