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M35A2 Front wire harness questions

rebelliners

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Ok I am all new to this steel Solders and to Blogs or Forums so sorry ahead of time if I am messing this up. I found some old posts about front wiring harness and how the market is flooded with old m35a1 harnesses that are incorrect but every post I find seems old. I am looking for a front harness for a 1966 multi fuel M35a2 with it including lights and flasher it seems like their about all gone. I did find one company in Maine who makes them from what I reed and their asking 1400.00 that seems crazy when all I was hoping to do is drive the vets threw parades. Anyone help or know where old stock correct harness may be?

Thanks
 
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M35A2-AZ

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Well that is not good. If you can take the old one out you could copy it. I have done that with trailer harness, it is not to bad of a job.
 

FloridaAKM

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For that kind of money, I would get the correct wire size & correct connectors & make my own harness, with extra circuits for 12v power in the dash & anything else you can come up with. The Deuce is just electrical circuits, not the fancy electronic nightmare in new cars & truck. Don't forget to number the circuits on both ends with some type of metal tags or printed labels. Keep us posted.
 

rebelliners

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For that kind of money, I would get the correct wire size & correct connectors & make my own harness, with extra circuits for 12v power in the dash & anything else you can come up with. The Deuce is just electrical circuits, not the fancy electronic nightmare in new cars & truck. Don't forget to number the circuits on both ends with some type of metal tags or printed labels. Keep us posted.
This is crazy I have called over 6 places now all the big names and I am keeping track I do have two good leads rite now one of them is going to call back today think he has original nos and is asking 430.00. Tell you what if someone needs one they better get on this.
 

rchalmers3

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The only time I replaced an entire harness was on a burn job. Otherwise, harnesses can be repaired with the correct materials and some loving time and attention.

Most repairs I have done to harness are only in three or four places, where the weather or accidental damages (horn wire!) occurred. On one job, I must have patched the front harness in a dozen places, maybe more because some terminals were lousy. I did the repairs using the correct wire gauges (I believe there were 2 sizes), naked crimp unions and some shrink tube.

I hope this helps. Replacing the harness may be a good answer for your circumstances, but I believe you have options available.

rick
 

frank8003

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" Anyone help or know where old stock correct harness may be?"
p/n 11677081, NSN 2590010163187
Seems to me that placing a want to buy ad in Steel Soldiers should get you a used take out harness. Your WTB posting could wake some up to the value of used electric harness.
If you are willing to change out that entire harness then you will see it is easier to just fix the one you have or buy a takeout. I would look forward to changing out that harness as I would look to a root canal.
I rewrapped and protected various areas of my truck harnesses after seeing the burn stories on SS.
Perhaps if you tell us what it is that doesn't work then it can be figured out where you problem is to repair.
wiring harness front M35A2.jpg

OK, I ran on long enough....sunup in 3 hours
goto here
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?92644-M35a2-WIRE-HARNESS
 
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clinto

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The only time I replaced an entire harness was on a burn job. Otherwise, harnesses can be repaired with the correct materials and some loving time and attention.
Except when they're really old.

My '67 A2 had what I assume is it's original harness. My truck was released earlier than the mid-2000's GL dump so it's been out of the service a long time and was probably one of the rougher trucks when it was released. The harness was just trash-all of the wires were coming apart, the actual sheathing was dry rotted and almost all the packard connectors were rotted. Every time you had to disconnect something, you'd have to replace the packard insulator.

Like you, I've patched a thousand harnesses and you do what you have to do when either the budget is tight or no reproduction is available. But sometimes a harness is just trashed and there's not anything you can do about it.
 

rebelliners

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Except when they're really old.

My '67 A2 had what I assume is it's original harness. My truck was released earlier than the mid-2000's GL dump so it's been out of the service a long time and was probably one of the rougher trucks when it was released. The harness was just trash-all of the wires were coming apart, the actual sheathing was dry rotted and almost all the packard connectors were rotted. Every time you had to disconnect something, you'd have to replace the packard insulator.

Like you, I've patched a thousand harnesses and you do what you have to do when either the budget is tight or no reproduction is available. But sometimes a harness is just trashed and there's not anything you can do about it.
you couldn't of describe my harness any better
 

rebelliners

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20170418_155234.jpgSo here is my story with a little background. It just so happens wiring is my specialty I own a small business that builds police cars for years now complete builds and that's a lot of wiring. So the good news is I can handle this but this was the last thing I thought I'd be doing to my Deuce. I got this truck about a month ago and yes this is my first M35A2 it’s a 1966 KJ. I worked my college days in a big truck shop when I first got this truck I took it to a shop that works Deuces not two far from me and had them go through truck and had a inspection completed it passed with no problem. Now the thing I needed to point out was this truck sat the last 13 years it was released from the US government in 2004 and when I registered it the original miles to now showed it’s only had 600 miles put on it since it left. I purchased this truck as a dream wanted a Deuce for 15 + years now but was never willing to drive a long distance to bring one home. About two nights ago I was doing the man thing and siting in it late night after changeling some door hinges and was messing around with the light switch trying to program in my head its positions and what turns on when' I noticed the driver side front yellow marker was not lighting or with blinker bilking. So assumed the bulbs took a crap opened the light and did not get anything with my test light oddly enough the only light that worked was my black out light. So naturally thought ground after changing bulbs and no luck, out came my creeper and boy that’s when for the first time I said holy crap this is not good. Upon my wire tracing down the driver side harness as my hand gently followed the wiring I could hear cracking and initially said that's just the old tape or rap dry rotted "it is what it is its 51 years old I said to myself". So when I got to the horn wire that runs out the bottom of the steering gear box I realized it was almost gone as I grabbed it and it snapped of by its connector like a piece of old wood. I looked carefully and I'd say 80% of my front wiring is shot brittle and even large sections are looking bare. I originally noted how rough the wires looked on the back side of the blinker actuator in the cab if you take your finger and rub the wire the coating will rub off "scary" now listen I am not telling anyone what to do or battle if I am right or wrong but I can tell you this yes I can patch some new wire in and heat shrink some areas and so on and I did. I found the wire decayed off at the connectors to the driver side marker light and fixed it also this is fine and dandy for tooting around and driving to a parade or two. But if you think this is sufficient for driving off road or threw water and mug I would beware of the condition your wiring harness is in. I spent over 6 + plus hours yesterday calling every military restorer or parts place I could find a phone number for in the US. I am not going to slander any of their names but I will tell you several of them said they can order it for price ranges of 1500.00 to 1800.00 and when I questioned them if they were buying this from http://vintagewiring.com/ most said ‘’yes’’ one big parts seller said that’s all that’s left and claimed around 2014 they all dried up and most deuce fires are in relation to bad harnesses. After all the time I spent on the phone I found one NOS with the right part number for the M35A2 part number 2590000163187 and got it for around 500.00 shipped some shop called the White Owl who only had one on the shelf still can’t believe I found one maybe someone out there is sitting on a bunch of NOS stock and is just waiting for the right moment to cash out on these I can tell you one thing I don’t see the price going down. (Buyer beware of the E-bay front harness that are cheap they are all for M35A1 gas jobbers)
Ok just got a huge lead from Michael Virili From BIG MIKE'S MOTOR POOL https://www.bigmikesmotorpool.com/pages/frontpage he is also on FB check out the M35A2 FB group page. He said he has located a hand full and if anyone is looking I would get a hold of him ASAP. Price looking to be around 550.00 I just got this information in and have purchased many parts from him before he’s awesome.
 
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Nitrodiver

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Did you get the harness replaced? Was it difficult to do?

Im in the same situation with my '67, just got it and the more I look at the wiring the more I think I need to do the same. Or make a new one, hopefully using the old major connectors.
 

pjwest03

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In the realm of preventing harness fires

In the realm of preventing harness fires I added a marine battery post fuse to the main feed at the battery terminal. I use one for the main harness feed and one for my accessory feed.

33607_lg.jpg
 

Nitrodiver

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Baytown, Texas
In the realm of preventing harness fires I added a marine battery post fuse to the main feed at the battery terminal. I use one for the main harness feed and one for my accessory feed.

View attachment 682819
What Amp rating did you use? Have had any issues with blowing the fuses? I've thought about doing the same just for extra insurance. But I haven't been able to find a accurate amp draw of the starter in the TM's. I was looking at those from Blue Sea Systems just last night.
 

pjwest03

Active member
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Vestal/NY
What Amp rating did you use? Have had any issues with blowing the fuses? I've thought about doing the same just for extra insurance. But I haven't been able to find a accurate amp draw of the starter in the TM's. I was looking at those from Blue Sea Systems just last night.
I didn't fuse the starter cable yet. I put an 80 amp fuse on the cab feed, which in my truck which leads to the alternator and to circuit 10 that feeds everything else. Some trucks pick that up at the starter solenoid, In my M36A2 it was connected at the battery.
 

Nitrodiver

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Location
Baytown, Texas
I didn't fuse the starter cable yet. I put an 80 amp fuse on the cab feed, which in my truck which leads to the alternator and to circuit 10 that feeds everything else. Some trucks pick that up at the starter solenoid, In my M36A2 it was connected at the battery.
I got you thanks. I'm planing on a fuse on the cab feed and the starter. I take it you haven't had any issues with the cab feed fuses?
 
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